So I want people's opinions on what oil i should put in my TT Z. I put oil in it 2 years ago and its only done a couple hundred miles, but im installing an oil pressure sensor so oil needs draining and refilling. In the past ive always gone with 5w-40 or 10w-40 of whatever is at the local petrol station but I'd like to be a bit more prepared this time.

 

 

 

I've read through oilman's post about viscosity and synth, but still not sure specific. oilman says synthetic because it gives superior protection than semi, but nissan/Jeff have recommended semi.

 

Regarding viscosity, the car is mostly sitting and started every couple months for a little drive (nothing major), stock internals with bolt ons and upped boost. Anyone want to recommend something?

 

Also specific brands better than others?

 

In summary, semi-synth vs synth, viscosity, and brand?

I got 20 ltrs of Valvoline 10w-40 in 2016 for £20 special Friday offer eurocarparts.

I believe this oil is well used in Indy 500.

Its all used now so I must have done 3 oil changes :confused1:

I got 20 ltrs of Valvoline 10w-40 in 2016 for £20 special Friday offer eurocarparts.

I believe this oil is well used in Indy 500.

Its all used now so I must have done 3 oil changes :confused1:

I got 20 ltrs of Valvoline 10w-40 in 2016 for £20 special Friday offer eurocarparts.

I believe this oil is well used in Indy 500.

Its all used now so I must have done 3 oil changes :confused1:

Hopefully more than 3 [emoji16]

Mine are always noisy after every winter storage, the remedy is to just get it hot and give it a good thrashing, get some pressure and temperature in it.

I've owned two z32's now, same procedure every year.

You could always start it up now and then but that's not really recommended either as the temps never get hot enough when idling so you _can_ end up with condensation in your engine which is not good.

 

As for oil Nissan prescribes a 10w-40, most oils in that category are semi synthetic. If you wanna run full synt you could run a 5w-40.

No problems regardless, almost any oil sold today will exceed the quality requirements for our engine.

 

 

 

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Eurocarparts has the usual discount codes on the homepage. You can get 5litres of Shell Helix HX7 10/40W for £18.42 with free delivery. Happy birthday bud

I personally run Motul 300V 20w60. Yes it’s on the thick side, but temperature is the enemy in these cars and when I want to unleash all hell and fury at full boost, I don’t want my oil to be thinner than a wannabe cat walk model. Further more, the odds of me driving or starting the car up when it is below -5c are pretty much nil

 

If every else is boosting their post count, I may as well get in on that action aswell

I personally run Motul 300V 20w60. Yes it’s on the thick side, but temperature is the enemy in these cars and when I want to unleash all hell and fury at full boost, I don’t want my oil to be thinner than a wannabe cat walk model. Further more, the odds of me driving or starting the car up when it is below -5c are pretty much nil

 

If every else is boosting their post count, I may as well get in on that action aswell

Food for thought; why you shouldn't use a 60 weight when the engine isn't designed for it...

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-car-engine-oil-10w-60-explained.aspx

 

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I like magnetec.......

There I said it...... one to the post count!!

Food for thought; why you shouldn't use a 60 weight when the engine isn't designed for it...

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-car-engine-oil-10w-60-explained.aspx

 

Sent fra min HUAWEI VNS-L31 via Tapatalk

 

 

The oil choice came as a result of advice from Mitch @ EP Racing and that I run on the loose side on main and big end bearing tolerances. The combination of running a thicker oil and looser tolerances ensures I get sufficient oil coverages and lubrication of the bearing surfaces when I’m hammering the engine on track. If I lose a couple of HP and MPG, then that’s a trade off I’m happy to make for the sake of the longevity of my far from stock engine ��

 

Further more, the workshop manual states that use of a 20W50 is acceptable for higher temps, so I struggle to see why a heavily modified VG30 isn’t suited to a 20W60 Esther synthetic oil

Edited April 10, 20187 yr by nickz32

The oil choice came as a result of advice from Mitch @ EP Racing and that I run on the loose side on main and big end bearing tolerances. The combination of running a thicker oil and looser tolerances ensures I get sufficient oil coverages and lubrication of the bearing surfaces when I’m hammering the engine on track. If I lose a couple of HP and MPG, then that’s a trade off I’m happy to make for the sake of the longevity of my far from stock engine ��

 

Do you feel using 20W60 you might be compromising longevity of the other lubricated surfaces which are in stock spec such as small end bearings, piston,

valves, camshafts, turbos etc?

 

Now that you have had your car beautifully resprayed will you still be hammering your car as much on the track?

Do you feel using 20W60 you might be compromising longevity of the other lubricated surfaces which are in stock spec such as small end bearings, piston,

valves, camshafts, turbos etc?

 

Now that you have had your car beautifully resprayed will you still be hammering your car as much on the track?

 

Re longevity of other surfaces, I bowed down to Mitch’s knowledge. It’s the oil recommends for all his forged builds.

 

Re track, yup. I’m looking into paint protection film at the moment, but it won’t be going on track until that’s sorted

I like magnetec.......

There I said it...... one to the post count!!

 

I’ve used Magnatec as engine flush, it’s very cheap and works great! (Really I have!)

The oil choice came as a result of advice from Mitch @ EP Racing and that I run on the loose side on main and big end bearing tolerances. The combination of running a thicker oil and looser tolerances ensures I get sufficient oil coverages and lubrication of the bearing surfaces when I’m hammering the engine on track. If I lose a couple of HP and MPG, then that’s a trade off I’m happy to make for the sake of the longevity of my far from stock engine ��

 

Further more, the workshop manual states that use of a 20W50 is acceptable for higher temps, so I struggle to see why a heavily modified VG30 isn’t suited to a 20W60 Esther synthetic oil

[ATTACH=CONFIG]111768[/ATTACH]

 

True - but the "higher temps" referred to are ambient temperatures, not engine temperatures. Running a VG30deTT in a consistently hot climate is a lot different to running it in the UK, where we rarely see 30 degrees plus.

True - but the "higher temps" referred to are ambient temperatures, not engine temperatures. Running a VG30deTT in a consistently hot climate is a lot different to running it in the UK, where we rarely see 30 degrees plus.

 

This is true, and without wanting to go back and forth, the OE oil viscosity ratings are designed around a VG30DETT in completely stock form and stock boost. Secondly, yes why it relates to ambient air temp, the inference is that in hotter environments engines will run at a higher temperature and to have an oil that doesn’t run too thin in those temps. Visa versa with cold climates.

 

Given the extra heat that is involved in running 1.6bar of boost that my particular engine is running I wanted an oil that was as thermally stable as possible at higher engine oil temperatures. Both on track and during VMAX I saw oil temps of around 115c, Granted I now have a larger oil cooler, but thermally stable oil at that temps was something that encouraged me to my particular oil choice.

Edited April 10, 20187 yr by nickz32
Bit more explanation

Up your post count in 6 easy steps!

 

1. Comment on an oil thread.

1. Comment on an oil thread.

2. Comment on an oil thread.

3. Comment on an oil thread.

4. Comment on an oil thread.

5...

6. Profit!

 

 

What a can of worms this turned out to be! So just buy some slippery stuff and Bob's your Uncle.

Up your post count in 6 easy steps!

 

1. Comment on an oil thread.

1. Comment on an oil thread.

2. Comment on an oil thread.

3. Comment on an oil thread.

4. Comment on an oil thread.

5...

6. Profit!

 

 

What a can of worms this turned out to be! So just buy some slippery stuff and Bob's your Uncle.

 

:lol: :rofl:

Shell hx7 10w40 Oil + filter change every 500 miles / 4 months :innocent::thumbup:

Shell hx7 10w40 Oil + filter change every 500 miles / 4 months :innocent::thumbup:

 

Holy cow !!!

 

Thought I was a bit over the top with oil changes till I read that !! cool

 

 

Jeff

Shell hx7 10w40 Oil + filter change every 500 miles / 4 months :innocent::thumbup:

 

So says Sheik Megatron, owner of the largest oil refinery in Surrey. :tt2:

I need to put oil in my car thats why it dos'nt work :cursing:

So says Sheik Megatron, owner of the largest oil refinery in Surrey. :tt2:

 

Holy cow !!!

 

Thought I was a bit over the top with oil changes till I read that !! cool

 

 

Jeff

 

 

 

500 miles / 4 months shell hx7 10w40 for the summer period only ?

 

Winter months oil service every 250 miles/ 2 months

I then switch to Castrol magnatec 10w40 my favourite and the best oil for the z32:drool::thumbup:

 

This also depends on what mood I'm in also weather dependant plus the year before I only used Castrol magnatec for both 250 and 500 mile oil changes ?

 

Right I'll just get my coat I'm off ??

[emoji16]

 

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Always said regular oil changes is like money in the bank.

 

Jeff

Always said regular oil changes is like money in the bank.

 

Jeff

 

Your right Jeff ??

Always said regular oil changes is like money in the bank.

 

Jeff

 

Unless you’re talking about Jim’s bank 250 miles though wouldn’t even get me home from PowerZed.:laugh: