Hi Just purchased today a Z32 300ZX lots of niggles to sort out perhaps when I have made a list someone may have some suggestions on the remedies for which I would be grateful have wanted one for a long time but its turns out even with the buyers guide my enthusiasm may have got the better of me, but at least I finally have one.

What's up with it mate?

Welcome to the Club. Post up details of your purchase and what you need help with.

Welcome to the club Brillo.

Hi Brillo.

 

Looking forward to seeing pics of your new 300ZX. Good luck with the project. :thumbup:

Welcome to the club.

Thank you to everyone for the kind wishes, Initial issues appear to be very high idle 12-1300 rpm does not matter if its cold or at running temp, o/s steering rack gator looks newish but is pumping out fluid, exhaust is by the look of it possibly original to the car as its steel paper thin and very rusty and blowing front and middle, back boxes are the most robust of the lot but still not up to much, and extremely loud, the oil pressure gauge reads 4 bar at idle, but is under 2 bar when at 3000 rpm when driving although there are no strange noises that I can hear but the exhaust maybe masking any one of the front fog lights is rotten inside and appear to be used as side lights (I dont know if that is how all these cars are wired).

 

The drivers door will shut perfectly one time and the next time you shut it, it bounces off the shut and the tailgate fall on your head if you are not ready for it (bruise on head to prove this) which I presume is a common problem , there is damage to the drivers seat squab and bolster, on the plus side it did a 5 1/2 hour journey home without overheating and the underneath, spare wheel well, under the foam tool tray, sills and rear arches are not full of holes.

 

Trouble is I thought it looked pretty and that was enough to sell it to me, will take some photo's tomorrow if it stops snowing and see what other problems I can find, still whatever I find I still like the look of it.

 

Thanks again for the good wishes

 

Regards Marc

Check for any vacuum leaks and TPS (make sure throttle is completely closed) and then you can adjust the iac if okay. I read correct your rack is pissing fluid? You probably need a new rack.

 

Exhausts can be sourced reasonably easily £100-200 usually.

 

If the fog light switch is engaged the side lights will be on, but the fogs won't be on with the side lights.

 

Check the door is at the right height, and if a S1 that the seatbelt bolt is all the way in (ive seen some crossthreaded and will foul on the bottom).

 

Damage to the bolster is common, the seats can be completely retrimmed or you can get some others.

Edited February 6, 20187 yr by Alic

Thanks for the reply Alic, excuse the ignorance but how do i ensure the throttle is completely closed ? also have you any recommendations as to where to source a steering rack, and also a favourable place for a exhaust system, I will check the door height tomorrow and the order in which the lights come on, although I could not see any other illumination at the front of the car other than the fog lights when the light switch was in the sidelight position, is there more than one bulb holder in the fog lamp housing or should there be another lamp on the front that houses the sidelight bulb ?

 

Thanks again for the reply

Sometimes the throttle cable can be too tight and hold open the throttle.

This dial (on series 1s its on the outside and later cars on the other side of the throttle body) should be touching the stopper. When adjusting the cable you should have it so the cable will be as taut as possible without actually starting the move the rod. This way there won't be any deadplay in the pedal. If you do adjust it be sure to set the TPS to 0.44v to ensure it knows its shut.

 

Steering rack you can get used (I might have one in march), or you could look into having it rebuilt, the rack speeds are different NA/TT but they both fit.

 

Exhausts are easiest to get used, just put a wanted post up and see what people have for sale.

 

There *are 2 lamps in the fog light but there are two switch live wires that feed it, 1 for side and 1 for fog lights.

 

 

What's the spec of your car? what year, TT/NA, manual/auto?

Edited February 7, 20187 yr by Alic

Car is a 1990 Manual NA SWB, is the difference on the steering racks just number of turns lock to lock or is it the response when turning the wheel ? also would it do any harm if I had a TT rack fitted to my NA car

Help posts wanted guys.

Thanks for the advice Alic, if you have a rack available in March then please let me know, as I fear that getting the other bits sorted out will take a little time with my limited knowledge and I would presume that a MOT tester will take a dim view of the steering rack & exhaust in their present condition as the car only has 2 days MOT remaining (just enough to get it home) if anyone is aware of a good condition exhaust system for sale I would be most grateful, I have noticed this morning that the centre brake light only partially illuminates so Im hoping that that will just be a bulb replacement, I intend to remove the fog lights to check out the bulbs, it does not appear obvious how they are secured to the bumper, do I get to them by removing the indicator units ?

 

I would also like to thank everyone for your help & information

Thanks for the advice Alic, if you have a rack available in March then please let me know, as I fear that getting the other bits sorted out will take a little time with my limited knowledge and I would presume that a MOT tester will take a dim view of the steering rack & exhaust in their present condition as the car only has 2 days MOT remaining (just enough to get it home) if anyone is aware of a good condition exhaust system for sale I would be most grateful, I have noticed this morning that the centre brake light only partially illuminates so Im hoping that that will just be a bulb replacement, I intend to remove the fog lights to check out the bulbs, it does not appear obvious how they are secured to the bumper, do I get to them by removing the indicator units ?

 

I would also like to thank everyone for your help & information

 

I'll keep it on my mind, it will be late March and I'll have to double check it doesn't leak either as then are a pain to replace.

 

Unlikely to pass MOT yes.

 

Correct if you take the indicators out you can just reach the 3 10mm nuts on the back of the fog light, and then unplug them.

Welcome to the Club Brillo, plenty of useful information on here, both in the FAQ section and also from members. It might be in your best interest to subscribe to the club also, as it opens up an advanced forum with tuning, wheels, tyres, lighting, engine, chassis and other advice:thumbup1:.

As Alic has said, bang up a few pics, set up a Wanted ad and get comfortable with the search system. In relation to actual Specialists, we have Jimmer at Powerzed in Bristol for everything Z related regarding engine builds, mechanics, advice etc, Mondo is our resident interior specialist offering bespoke leather trims, including steering wheels, gear knobs, seats and everything else:thumbup1:

 

There are plenty more helpful people who won't put you wrong, so enjoy the experience:thumbup:

 

I think I've a spare pair of exhaust downpipes and a complete OEM centre section out at the homeplace.

Edited February 7, 20187 yr by Richie K

Hi Brillo.

 

I cant help with all your niggles but hopefully some.

 

This page here

 

https://z32.wikispaces.com/Throttle+Position+Sensor

 

Is a good place to start with kots of tune up jobs on the car. You should also know you can get the factory service manual as a pdf and on the android app store. z32fsm I think.

 

Your high idle could be tps or a iacv, or other things I'm sure but start there. There is a base idle screw on the iacv but I think the general advice is you shouldn't really fiddle with that. (I have and I've set mine up alright)

 

Make a list, start smashing through it. I'm not sure the difference in racks but there are differences in pumps, I dont think a tt one fits on an NA, not something I have personally done.

 

When you get you car sorted a NA SWB manual will be awesome. :)

I have noticed this morning that the centre brake light only partially illuminates so Im hoping that that will just be a bulb replacement

 

The correct replacement bulb is Nissan part#26261-30P00 (13w). Be warned they are expensive!

 

 

If you PM me your VIN number (you will need to be a subscribed member to PM) I will lookup the factory build date etc for your car.

Yeah they're about a fiver each.

A £5 each !!! no way, Nissan rip off as per.

 

Standard T15 fittment, given they are the same bulb that is fitted into 12 volt garden lights they are available in various wattage from 5 watt to 21 watt if you fancy a brighter upgrade in different colours as used as indicator and brake light bulbs on many French cars etc.

 

Used the 18 watt one`s in the past and causes no issue within the light unit.

 

Jeff

 

 

Lower wattage here >

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Voltage-Outdoor-Lighting-Wedge-Bulb/dp/B003C0DP5W

 

Near standard 18 watt here > £1.15

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gluhlampe-12V-18W-T15-W2-1x9-5d-15x36mm-Gluhbirne-Lampe-Birne-12Volt-18Watt-neu/121925472981?hash=item1c635312d5:g:vckAAOSwu1VW6BKW

 

 

21 watt here > £1.99

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-21W-T15-WEDGE-BULB-W2-1x9-5d-CAR-REAR-PARKING-LIGHT-STOP-LAMP-HOME-GARDEN-/122707022423

 

 

Hi and welcome to the club....:thumbup:

 

Richard:cool:

Thanks to everyone for their reply's, the 3rd brake light is now fixed (bulbs Replaced) however I have not got any rear side lights on the offside and from what I can see there is no power to them, but front side lights(thanks Alic) now work as I have repaired the wiring connections which had been attached using the "twist & tape) method but are now soldered & heat shrunk, rear number plate lights work & nearside tail lights work, there is a black box with a multipoint connector behind the O/S rear boot trim that the wires go into but I have no idea what it is or what it does so if anyone has one or knows what it does I would be grateful and I figure that a replacement should hopefully solve the problem.

 

Thanks to RichieK please let me know if you have got any exhaust parts you are prepared to part with, the problems with this car seem to be coming thick and fast !

 

There is a electrical connection on the tailgate latch which I assume is connected to the interior light but confirmation would be helpful, there appear to be no end of snap together electrical connectors of the splicing blade type and a lot of "twist & tape" connections that I am soldering together and shrink wrapping as I come across them, seems to be a lot of amateur electrics done on it.

 

If I don't reply speedily please forgive me as I don't seem to be able to set the thread to notify replies

 

Thanks again everyone, will now go back out to the car and carry on

Does sound like a lot of unreliable electronics. The black box could be an invertor for lighting up the 300zx in the rear centre panel but may not be working.

there is a black box with a multipoint connector behind the O/S rear boot trim that the wires go into but I have no idea what it is or what it does so if anyone has one or knows what it does I would be grateful and I figure that a replacement should hopefully solve the problem.

 

If it looks like this then it will be the Stop Light Sensor which detects a blown stop light bulb and illuminates the

dash warning light if so.

 

If it looks like this then it will be the Tail Light Sensor which detects a blown tail light bulb and illuminates the

dash warning light if so.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]110753[/ATTACH]

Or probably that yeah. The invertor doesn't have a multi point plug.

 

I have not got any rear side lights on the offside and from what I can see there is no power to them, there is a black box with a multipoint connector behind the O/S rear boot trim anyone knows what it does I figure that a replacement should hopefully solve the problem.

 

There is a electrical connection on the tailgate latch which I assume is connected to the interior light but confirmation would be helpful,

replies

 

Black box at the rear is a bulb monitor, it brings a light out warning on the dash if a bulb fails, however it can also fail, as the side light circuits are separate, you will find a power in side with lights on, that should come out the other side, the one with a failed output can be shorted out to get the light to work again albeit without bulb warning or of course just change the box.

 

The cable to the boot latch is to bring the boot light on.

 

 

Jeff

Did not even know the 300ZX part of the rear panel lit up will have to look into that once all the ordinary faults are put right, Yes AndrewG that is the very item, I have not seen any warning lights on the dash, I ran a patch lead from the N/S rear light lamp plug to the O/S rear lamp skt and the O/S bulbs do light, so I am assuming that the box in your photo is at fault, if anyone has such a thing please let me know.

 

As far as the switch on the tailgate latch is concerned, there is no boot light on my car and the interior light does not work (its on the list), so possibly it will control that, I will report back on that, can't believe how the electrics on this car have been mucked about with there are wires all over the place probably from a previous alarm instal i'm guessing.