The knock sensor from my 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT is broken and I need to replace it.

Where can I buy a new one for a fair price?

 

I checked a Nissan dealer and they charge 357,- GBP for it!!! :(

What about Z1

 

https://www.z1motorsports.com/oxygen-and-knock-sensors/nissan/300zx-detonation-knock-sensor-p-1727.html

 

Or https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Knock-Sensor-for-Nissan-300ZX-1990-2004/272734310665?fits=Model%3A300ZX&hash=item3f803b5109:g:XpcAAOSwvflZU~-Q&vxp=mtr

Edited November 24, 20178 yr by Gaz 300

The knock sensor from my 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT is broken and I need to replace it.

Where can I buy a new one for a fair price?

 

I checked a Nissan dealer and they charge 357,- GBP for it!!! :(

 

Sure it's the knock sensor and not the harness? Best off replacing both of them if it is the sensor itself.

I did a computer readout at the Nissan dealer and it said the knock sensor wasn't working, so I need to replace it.

 

Thanks for the links!

Is the knock sensor the same for the twin turbo engine?....because the ones they offer say it's for a 300zx

Knock sensor part# is 22060-30P00 and is same for TT and NA.

 

By computer readout, you mean Consult (code 34 - Detonation Sensor Circuit)? That could also mean that the harness is faulty.

Edited November 24, 20178 yr by AndrewG

The person at the dealer showed me and it said literally "knock sensor".

So I start with that. :)

 

It's ofcourse also a good idea to replace the wiring harness, I will do that next.

 

I going to prepare my Nissan for a nice vacation for next year from The Netherlands to Portugal, so it needs to be in tip top condition!

As has already been said this could be the harness at fault anywhere in the knock sensor circuit from ecu to and including the sensor itself. If the circuit is open it will show infinite resistance andfault as such. The ecu wants to see a resistance equivalent to that of a good knock sensor on that circuit.

Oke, what's the best thing to do next?

Replace the harness first and then check it again at the dealer?

You can place a resistor (i forget correct ohms on this but someone will reply im sure) into the harness that goes to the ecu and this will fool the ecu into thinking that sensor is connected and fine. If this clears the fault it rules out the harness from that point back to the ecu.

You can place a resistor (i forget correct ohms on this but someone will reply im sure) into the harness that goes to the ecu and this will fool the ecu into thinking that sensor is connected and fine. If this clears the fault it rules out the harness from that point back to the ecu.

Dont place resistor into the short harness that goes to the sensor by mistake. Make sure its placed into the ecu side of the plug while disconnected

 

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This writeup should help you with the problem (and includes the 1MΩ resistor fix):

 

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonationSensor/detonationSensor.html

 

With the engine in the car replacing the det sensor is not an easy task and a number of

relocation methods have been posted on TT.net:

 

http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=786419&forum=technical&dtSearch=2

Edited November 24, 20178 yr by AndrewG

Thanks guys for your quick help!

 

If the sensor seems te be broken afterall, then I will replace it, but first I will try your advice to check it.

Thanks guys for your quick help!

 

If the sensor seems te be broken afterall, then I will replace it, but first I will try your advice to check it.

 

Are you aware of what is involved to get access to the detonation sensor ?

 

Jeff

Are you aware of what is involved to get access to the detonation sensor ?

 

Jeff

Dont spoil his friday night Jeff [emoji23]

 

 

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:)

 

Yes, it's about 8 hours work. :(

But it would be replacing it once and then it's ok again for many, many years.

:)

 

Yes, it's about 8 hours work. :(

But it would be replacing it once and then it's ok again for many, many years.

 

For that reason alone is why others mention checking the connection plug, cable and in fact just check it is plugged in, we had many over the years come in and not plugged in !! the 1 ohm resister trick will take a couple of minutes to try and might just save you doing a whole lot of work if it reveals a cable issue.

 

Many have also just fitted a new det sensor in a more accessible place and left the old one in, and although I doubt that the position is as good as the standard position, the det sensor function only works in a small rev range due to too much noise from the rest of the engine, a correctly set up engine running good fuel and correct boost level for the map fitted will never have a problem.

 

Jeff