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If a twin turbo starts smoking when it gets up to temperature as apposed to smoking straight from starting is that just as bad? Worse or better?

 

I'm assuming they need replacing regardless, I'm also guessing this is an engine out job.

 

So my last question does anyone have stock turbos or upgraded ones sitting around that are good condition that they want to sell?

 

I would want good ones or new as I don't want to pull the engine out more than once. Also while its out, I was planning on cleaning up the engine bay and I've heard there are a few mods that can be done, what are they?

 

I know this is all a bit vague, but trying to work out the best step forward.

1990 Black MT NA LWB = 2014 - 2020 (Sold)

1991 Red MT TT LWB = 2015 - 2017 (Stripped & Scrapped)

1991 Red MT TT LWB = 2017 - 2021 (Sold)

1991 Black MT TT LWB = 2018 - 2021 (Sold)

1989 Red AT TT LWB = 2021 - XXXX (Kept)

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Smoking at warm tick over is classic rear seal failure, I use that term lightly as the seal isn't really a seal and it may not of failed. However oil is passing from the CHRA to the exhaust and evaporates as grey smoke. Not to be confused with blue smoke which is combusted, i.e. It's been through the cylinders and burned.

In an ideal world the rear seal could be absent and the turbo should stil not smoke, this isn't the case though. When pressure on the exhaust side of the seal is lesser than pressure in the unpressuired oil system the oil will leak. This could be a few things including excessive blow by gasses pressuring the system due to poor compression. Oil drains blocked with coke or simply an exhaust design that sucks on the seal.

One things for sure I wouldn't personally rebuild stock turbos again.

  • Author
Smoking at warm tick over is classic rear seal failure, I use that term lightly as the seal isn't really a seal and it may not of failed. However oil is passing from the CHRA to the exhaust and evaporates as grey smoke. Not to be confused with blue smoke which is combusted, i.e. It's been through the cylinders and burned.

In an ideal world the rear seal could be absent and the turbo should stil not smoke, this isn't the case though. When pressure on the exhaust side of the seal is lesser than pressure in the unpressuired oil system the oil will leak. This could be a few things including excessive blow by gasses pressuring the system due to poor compression. Oil drains blocked with coke or simply an exhaust design that sucks on the seal.

One things for sure I wouldn't personally rebuild stock turbos again.

 

Wow, I thought I was pretty mechanically minded, but I struggled with that! So it would be better if I got some upgraded turbos?

1990 Black MT NA LWB = 2014 - 2020 (Sold)

1991 Red MT TT LWB = 2015 - 2017 (Stripped & Scrapped)

1991 Red MT TT LWB = 2017 - 2021 (Sold)

1991 Black MT TT LWB = 2018 - 2021 (Sold)

1989 Red AT TT LWB = 2021 - XXXX (Kept)

I can't really answer that for you. It's cheaper to rebuild stockers but not by much, obviously if you want a stock car then it's obviously an option. New ones from the states would be better though.

T28 turbos feature a design revision to the exhaust seal (so I'm told by my local specialist) and it's a fairly nice upgrade to have your turbos modified in this way. If you have the desire and wallet more extreme options are available but in all seriousness a mild upgrade to t28 internals should provide more than enough potential for a road focused car.

What's rather important though is that the engine is in a state that's going to allow even the best turbos to not smoke. I'd hate to see anyone stump up 2k on turbos to still have smoke because the engine itself is junk.

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