Im looking to underseal the zed again and thinking of going back to bare metal

But after some sanding back under the wheel arches on the chassis

There seems to be a yellow rubberised paint thats on the steel under the paint

What is this stuff? Is it painted on seam sealer?

 

Should i be removing this or leave it on?

Is it only in the arches or is it all over the underside

That will be the factory under seal. Plenty of alternatives available. You can by Wayoxl stone chip which can be sprayed on that's pretty good, not to be confused with normal Waxoyl which is like a tar that never really dries.

From everything I've read regular waxoyl is a complete waste of space and dinitrol is much better. That's what I've got and the guys that did it said the active anti rust coat will last 5 years and the main physical coat will still be going strong after 10 years. They said best re-done every 10 years, less is unnecessary.

 

I must say though I was expecting mine to dry hard, but it's been about 2 months now and it's still slightly soft. And slippy, got to be careful when jacking! Bit disappointed on that front as a block of wood on the chassis rail takes a lot of the underseal off with it but I guess that can't be helped. If it wasn't slightly soft it wouldn't be self healing(ish).

Its dinitrol that i will also be using some great reviews

But should i paint my chassis with something first? Red oxide paint? Etch primer? What top coat?

Do i need to remove all the yellow factory underseal?

 

Then ill use the dinitrol under wax coating

Im looking to underseal the zed again and thinking of going back to bare metal

But after some sanding back under the wheel arches on the chassis

There seems to be a yellow rubberised paint thats on the steel under the paint

What is this stuff? Is it painted on seam sealer?

 

Should i be removing this or leave it on?

Is it only in the arches or is it all over the underside

 

That's called seam-sealer. Don't remove it unless there's evidence of rust behind it.

From everything I've read regular waxoyl is a complete waste of space and dinitrol is much better. That's what I've got and the guys that did it said the active anti rust coat will last 5 years and the main physical coat will still be going strong after 10 years. They said best re-done every 10 years, less is unnecessary.

 

I must say though I was expecting mine to dry hard, but it's been about 2 months now and it's still slightly soft. And slippy, got to be careful when jacking! Bit disappointed on that front as a block of wood on the chassis rail takes a lot of the underseal off with it but I guess that can't be helped. If it wasn't slightly soft it wouldn't be self healing(ish).

 

All underseals don't fully cure and that's how they're designed. It means the product can 'creep' so that when it gets hot, it'll flow into the cavities much better and also it'll 'heal' from minor impact damage.

 

Not sure where you read that Waxoil was a waste of space. Dinitrol has a better name and is a better product granted, but used correctly, Waxoil is a decent alternative. They do a very similar thing and act in a similar way.

I would recommend taking a look at the link below first before deciding..

 

https://www.bilthamber.com/

 

 

Etch primer is out of fashion.

Most people these days will use an epoxy primer instead, sticks well and is waterproof, so you don't need to apply top coat quite so quickly.

Isn't the primer also yellow? My front bumper is yellow where the underside has been scratched.

Isn't the primer also yellow? My front bumper is yellow where the underside has been scratched.

 

Are you referring to the overall colour beneath the underseal? or localised rubber-like sealant at the joints/seams?

Isn't the primer also yellow? My front bumper is yellow where the underside has been scratched.

 

That's the natural colour of the plastic itself, it's a dirty yellow colour.

All underseals don't fully cure and that's how they're designed. It means the product can 'creep' so that when it gets hot, it'll flow into the cavities much better and also it'll 'heal' from minor impact damage.

 

Not sure where you read that Waxoil was a waste of space. Dinitrol has a better name and is a better product granted, but used correctly, Waxoil is a decent alternative. They do a very similar thing and act in a similar way.

Yea sort of thought that myself as I was typing it!

 

The guy that did mine didn't think waxoyl was as good. I've read that it just doesn't last as long and doesn't like heat, will drip down when hot, and not as hard wearing. Plus no active properties I don't think? I think the general feeling is it's just outdated now and it's only old men that have been using it for years that advocate it nowadays.

Yea sort of thought that myself as I was typing it!

 

The guy that did mine didn't think waxoyl was as good. I've read that it just doesn't last as long and doesn't like heat, will drip down when hot, and not as hard wearing. Plus no active properties I don't think? I think the general feeling is it's just outdated now and it's only old men that have been using it for years that advocate it nowadays.

 

There's definitely better available these days but as Si says applied properly it's not a bad product. The pros for it are it's available off the shelf and reasonably priced and works. Con, it's not as technically advanced as others. Anything that prevents moisture and oxygen getting at the metal is better than nothing or damaged 25+ year old stuff.

Builthamber and Dintrol are highly rated but mail order only and not cheap. I've chosen to use Builthamber but I've used Waxoyl stone chip in the past. Actually I have the disgusting Waxoyl tar like stuff on top the stone guard behind my subframe four triple protection.

From what I understand, Waxoyl and underseal are different things. My dad reckons waxoyl is more for injecting into box sections and crevices.

From what I understand, Waxoyl and underseal are different things. My dad reckons waxoyl is more for injecting into box sections and crevices.

 

I would agree, the link below may be of interest.

The write ups are interesting also.

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-ub

Edited February 14, 20178 yr by redwine300

Yes waxoyl is a cavity wax, but dinitrol do that as well, dinitrol is a brand not a product.

 

Professional dinitrol application was not that much more than the waxoyl alternative I don't think, but maybe buying off the shelf is different

That's called seam-sealer. Don't remove it unless there's evidence of rust behind it.

 

I thought it was something like that, the inside of my inner rear arch is coated with it under the paint, ive had to redo half of the inner arch so its bare metal

So i thought get it all down to bare metal and use por 15 paint then dinitrol waxoil on top

From what I understand, Waxoyl and underseal are different things. My dad reckons waxoyl is more for injecting into box sections and crevices.

 

Indeed. To confuse things Hammerites range of anti rust stuff such as "underbody seal" contains Waxoyl. Hence where the confusion arrives. Waxoyl tends to be used as a brand name but it's not.

I dont hava a garage, so.....

 

http://www.rust.co.uk/we-can-rust-proof-your-car-from-250/c32734/

 

Known to anyone?