The rebuild has finally started today and so far in a few hours I've managed to completely strip the interior.

 

 

 

Next job on my list is to get both the bumpers, tailgate and bonnet off.

 

After that i'll work on the body panels and stripping down the engine.

Sorry, but I'm not.

 

I have to look at the reality of the situation.

 

At the moment the car won't start, needs mapped to be safe, needs a 4 wheel alignment then an mot.

Oh no, sorry to hear that. Better to do it right though than to risk it.

Oh no, sorry to hear that. Better to do it right though than to risk it.

 

Yes take the pressure of on working to a dead line and give yourself time to get it done right.

Gear shifter support bracket now fitted and centre of my zed now back together.

 

One problem fixed and another shows its head :(

 

Always thought my zed not stating was related to power and fuel issues.

 

1, The ECU keeps turning off during crank.

2, The fuel settings setup in the ECU may be wrong.

 

Today i managed to fix the first issue by simply reconnecting the ECU to the loom.

 

Turns out the last two pins were not connecting properly and during crank power is required here. (thanks to nickz32 for this suggestion)

 

Now that the ECU stays connected i tried cranking her again and each time it was a no go for startup.

 

After pulling the fuel pump fuse i tried to crank her again and it was the same, no cranky :)

 

Now i'm thinking my whole starting issue is the starter not pulling its weight.

 

So just about to pull it off for a few tests, but i'm sure i'll need to order a new one.

 

Anybody know the nissan part number for a oem starter ?

So i have a busted starter and it wont engage fully when manually rotated.

 

Below is my starter at rest :

 

 

This is as far as i can push it round and it jams :

 

Clamp it in the vice and put power to it.

You should be able to check if it goes fully in.

Its not 100% a test of whether it will turn an engine as you cant load it up on the bench.

Just did and the start motor is dead.

 

Connected it to a freshly charged 12v battery and its not even making a noise.

 

Clamp it in the vice and put power to it.

You should be able to check if it goes fully in.

Its not 100% a test of whether it will turn an engine as you cant load it up on the bench.

Gave it a tap with a hammer and it sparked and jolted.

 

Not trying that again, fairly sure this starter is busted in one way or another.

 

 

Just did and the start motor is dead.

 

Connected it to a freshly charged 12v battery and its not even making a noise.

Dude u really are having some luck with her.

At least you have confirmed a knackered starter and a direction to fix her.

Don’t give up heart you have such an amazing looking car and I for one can’t wait to see it in person.

Hopefully at the NEC but I understand if she can’t make it best to finish off with the quality u started with and end up with the car u intended

Good luck mate

Sooooo,

 

After i replacement Starter arrived from Mike Sandford (many thanks).

 

Fitted it and gave it a bash and it nearly got there :(

 

First time i tried it i cranked ok, but after that it stopped again.

 

Trying to discover the route cause is slackened off the belts slightly and hey presto, it cranks first time now.

 

Next issue :

 

Still wouldnt start, so i upped the master fuel level to 10ms on the ecu and it just about started :)

 

Then i heard alot of dripping from under the car so quickly pulled the key.

 

And now i have a puddle of fuel and oil on the floor.

 

As its not starting properly due to under fuelling there was a buildup of fuel in the exhaust which eventually came out 1/2 way down as the bolts are not tight.

 

I pulled a few coil packs / spark plugs out to make sure it wasn't flooded.

 

The other issue was a oil leak from the driver side turbo feed.

 

Seems i have a little corrosion which i thought was passable as i cleaned it up but guess not as it poured out.

 

The last thing is again related to fuel and i believe is the reason why the car wont start properly

 

It seems my engine has developed a squeak as when the fuel is primed the fuel pressure regulator makes a noise now.

Better view of the corroded pipe :

 

What a nightmare, when you fix all the gremlins and fly down the road, it will be worth it.

When I first started reading this post I thought that I’d love to be able to do all this work myself to my car. After reading about all the hurdles you’ve had and overcome I know that there’s no way I would have the resilience you’ve shown to carry on. What you’re doing is a testament to your character and a virtue. Keep going, you’re nearly there! :thumbup:

Damn too tight belts preventing it from cranking.....I dread to think how many hours of tinkering in vain it would have taken me to think of that! Keep it up

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Ok, so...

 

1) you sure that’s fuel that’s leaked out the exhaust and not just condensation tainted with fuel? If that much fuel made it into the exhaust I think you’d have hydrolocked the engine

 

2) have you checked you timing is set to 15deg BTDC? It’ll struggle to start if it thinks it’s at 15 Deg but actually isn’t. You’ll need a timing light to verify

 

3) increasing fuel pump priming time won’t effect it actually running. The noise you’re hearing from your pressure reg is due to fuel prime being too long and it’s returning fuel back to the tank.

You want to either adjust your post start enrichment, or your main fuel table (which is what I’d do). If you want to bring your laptop to the NEC on Saturday I can show you how to make the adjustments you’ll need

 

4) you sure that oil line is torqued up correctly? The copper washer should take out any surface corrosion on that joint (because it’s such a soft metal)

Edited November 8, 20187 yr by nickz32
Bloody autocorrect

It could be condensation mixed with fuel as its not as strong smelling as raw fuel.

 

The oil pipe leak is dripping concentrated from one area away from the banjo and when

you look further up the pipe its completely dry.

 

It's the master fuel level that I have been changing on the ecu, as I believed it was too low.

 

When I last adjusted it to increase the level the engine actually nearly started but I also heard

the leaks coming from below so I stopped the attempt to check.

 

Oil line is perfectly torqued up and its a damaged pipe, I recall clearly taking it off before rebuild

And when I removed the heat shield it was very pitted and rusty but I thought it could be saved.

Look at the Cold start enrichment aswell.

 

Have you got the AFR reading displayed on your laptop? It’ll be worth datalogging a start up procedure and look at your AFR’s. You’ll want to be in the 12’a on cold start

replacement parts arrived; so next challenge is to heat up the garage for fitment as its bloody freezing out there.

 

Top fuel pressure regulator now replaced and then started on the turbo oil pipe.

 

Managed to get the down-pipe off but it was a bitch to do; just need to figure out how to get into the bolt head of the oil pipe now.

 

Out with the old, in with the new.

 

This is the turbo oil feed pipe which i've just replaced.

 

And it was another bitch of a job to do.

 

Not much room to maneuver any sort of spanner in the space so i eventually unbolted the steering rack.

 

 

 

Bottom bolt was easy enough but it was the top one that took the longest to get removed,

then the new part wouldn't catch the thread on the turbo and that took over an hour to get back on.

 

Just a week update.

 

Worked a few hours yesterday trying to put my zed back together.

 

After the new turbo oil pipe was attached i needed to reinstall the steering linkage, down pipes and exhaust still.

 

I primed the oil lines again by cranking it a few times with the fuel relay fuse out which worked fine.

 

I then popped the fuse back in and tried it again and it wouldn't crank again :(

 

Low power on the battery i presume so left it overnight to give it a quick charge.

 

This morning i tried it again and while i can get it to crank now; it still wont start. :(

 

I'm thinking this is just ECU settings as i have a Link G4+ ECU, but is anyone else running with this ?

 

It would great if someone could send me a copy of there base map to get me started.