Well, time to bring some sad news.

 

Had great run up to Coventry where we're staying for the week, car was running beautifully for the first 100 miles...

And then the gearbox gave out... :crying: the gearbox oil was topped up before the journey but it spontaneously decided to pack up. We were coming to a roundabout and it would just grind horribly. Once it grinded and limped into second it wasn't so bad so we made it here thankfully I guess. We also found there was no reverse gear and neutral/park would grind so the gearbox has had it really.

 

I'll make an effort to limp up to Coventry museum as if the gearbox is toast, I might aswell run it until the cogs become perfectly smooth ;)

 

After that, I don't know, I have to think about it. The plan would be to have a manual conversion as two (or more) auto boxes have gone on this car now and manual was the eventual plan. Here's where it hurts, my wallet isn't that big. It's going to have to sit for a while till I can gather enough funds, but im just gutted.

 

Its a project car and it's 26 years old, things are bound to go wrong, I'm just pissed that the car is now immobilised for probably a year since I was unlucky enough to be the victim (through no fault of my own) of such a costly repair.

 

 

Last picture for a while...

A Jesus style reserection wouldn't surprise me.

Even if the fluid is fixed, would you not have thought that grinding gears for about 20 miles would have damaged them.

No but I know what to put in so I can be confident in the future. And also to make sure to cycle the gears and then refill and top up which I skipped...

 

Anyway, it's getting towed after Coventry down to Nissan (hopefully) and I will source an auto box to drop in.

 

That sounds like (part of) the issue Ali....! I think we can all accept that you put in the correct fluid, perhaps just not enough! As said, these 'boxes take in the region of 8 litres plus - and when you put it in gear, the level drops instantly! Hence the need to run it through from P to 2 and back again, with the engine running; and check the level whilst still running in D.

 

Do that, add more (much more) fluid until it's full and then see if it works before condemning the 'box. A few litres of oil is still pennies compared to the cost of a replacement - so you have nothing to lose.

Even if the fluid is fixed, would you not have thought that grinding gears for about 20 miles would have damaged them.

 

That's why I say Jesus style, unexplained and temporary.

That's why I say Jesus style, unexplained and temporary.

 

Yup - fingers crossed for Ali...:clover:

Ok let's be honest here guys, if this auto transmission was making these noises then buying more fluid is just throwing more money away.

 

The box is dead, auto transmissions don't have gears like a manual box they use a fairly simple planetary system and clutch packs, no amount of fresh fluid is going to cure this (how many times have we heard this now).

 

As long as there is sufficient fluid to fill the torque converter and maintain a level within the sump whilst running that's it, no more fluid will make any difference.

 

ATF expands when hot hence the two different levels on the dipstick, so checking should be performed at running temperature after going through the positions back to P then dip for the level.

 

either source another auto box (personally I wouldn't waste my money) or just find a way of funding a manual conversion, it's not that expensive and fixes the car LONG TERM! :thumbup1:

Ok let's be honest here guys, if this auto transmission was making these noises then buying more fluid is just throwing more money away.

 

The box is dead, auto transmissions don't have gears like a manual box they use a fairly simple planetary system and clutch packs, no amount of fresh fluid is going to cure this (how many times have we heard this now).

 

As long as there is sufficient fluid to fill the torque converter and maintain a level within the sump whilst running that's it, no more fluid will make any difference.

 

ATF expands when hot hence the two different levels on the dipstick, so checking should be performed at running temperature after going through the positions back to P then dip for the level.

 

either source another auto box (personally I wouldn't waste my money) or just find a way of funding a manual conversion, it's not that expensive and fixes the car LONG TERM! :thumbup1:

The thing is at the moment it's looking like £200 for a replacement auto box (fitted), vs £1500+ for manual conversion.

 

I just want the car driveable, it makes me sad thinking that the car will just be stuck in the shed immobilised for another year because I can't afford it.

£1500 for a manual conversion! are you fitting a quaife sequential or something? I sourced a full kit, new clutch and hydraulics flywheel reface prop uj replacement for less than £700, granted I can do the work myself but it's not a hard job to do.

£1500 for a manual conversion! are you fitting a quaife sequential or something? I sourced a full kit, new clutch and hydraulics flywheel reface prop uj replacement for less than £700, granted I can do the work myself but it's not a hard job to do.

It's not really something I can do on the garage floor with my skill set, and labour could easily add up to £800, 10 hours work

But if you can get the auto box swapped for £80 labour then to be honest a manual conversion doesn't take a great deal longer, plan it right and it can be done in a day with a ramp.

 

Be honest Alic what are your chances of finding a good used auto box? Even if it works for a few miles it won't last.

 

These things don't like being left sitting around in peoples sheds or dumped in the corner of a workshop, trust me I deal with this sort of thing on a daily basis, it just doesn't make sense.

 

If a manual zed is your long term goal I would seize this opportunity :thumbup1:

It's not really something I can do on the garage floor with my skill set, and labour could easily add up to £800, 10 hours work

 

To raise funds why not do a sponsored 'streak' on the Sunday, i'll put up £20.00, as long as it's not a cold day you should be ok :ohmy:.

I’m inclined to agree with Chris on this one. If the car has been driven for a few miles with low ATF and with the symptoms described, then I don’t think topping up/renewing the fluid would save this box.

 

If topping up the fluid did save it, then I can’t imagine the box would last much longer and I’d always be worried about putting my foot down in case that finished it off.

 

If you can afford the manual conversion, then great. You’ll yourself the cost of replacing the box, to then fork out for the conversion later.

 

Alternatively, I’d consider buying a replacement auto box and doing everything possible to ensure that it lasts as long as possible. I’d use the fluid here and do a complete ATF flush, also clean the magnets and strainer of any particles that could be clogging it up. I’m sure plenty of people would also recommend investing in a separate cooler…

 

One way or another, I hope you get it sorted out. I’ve had my Zed on and off the road for months, the idea of it being parked up for a year sucks…

 

On that note, is it worth considering the impact of it being parked up for ages will have on your other components. Would be a real shame if another fault were to develop because of it being parked up…

I would second going for the gun and doign a manual conversion.... I am happy to chip in a tenner :D

Jeez, my car's been off the road for 6 1/2 years while I bought bits for it, if I'd known people would've coughed up a few quid towards it, I could have had it done so much sooner:whistling:

I haven't got any money left to fit my bits, I'll streak across a pitch for donations :lol:

News just in... " car club banned from Coventry for public indecency"

News just in... " car club banned from Coventry for public indecency"

 

Ha!! I didn't say I would do it in Coventry, I'm too decent for that, I said I'd do it across a pitch. :lol: just didn't say what pitch Ash :thumbup: