Upon dripping the O/S suspension I noticed a tiny rust bubble under the underseal in the rear wheel arch....

I cleaned off the underseal and found a small hole about M8 bolt size..... more work with a wire brush on my drill expanded the small rusty hole to this....

Looks like I have the inner sill now rusting away.....

I have an idea what to do now and will be cutting out the rust later today to install a new section as soon as the suspension is all removed......

I am again joining Redwine300 on a mission to temporarily kill the tin worm!!!

 

Now a bit gutted again.......

 

A question for the knowledgeable...... If I added a copper pipe to the repair panel that runs the length of the inner sill, sealed the other end, drilled tiny holes into it and fitted a velvet to the repair panel end.....

Could something like this be used to spray rust prevention substances into the sill and parts inaccessible after closing it back up????

 

Or even just an access port to insert a cavity sealant wand into????

 

Just a thought.....

There's no need to , all the sill/box section cavities can be accessed relatively easily without the need for drilling. A flexible cavity wax wand in the right holes using the right technique is all you need.

There's no need to , all the sill/box section cavities can be accessed relatively easily without the need for drilling. A flexible cavity wax wand in the right holes using the right technique is all you need.

 

Hi Joel, I did that when I replace the outer sill section less than a few inches from this new hole..... It looks like the inner section has not benefitted from the dinitrol at all....

I sprayed 2 cans per side using the wand and thought I had accessed it all..... looks like I missed the area around the rear subframe mounting points somehow.....

I was just thinking that the separate sill sections are easier to a access from the end?

Or you need to feed the wand through 2 lots of pressed out holes to get to the inner section....

If there were a sealable hole, I could feed the lance into it spray the length and then reseal it?

What was done last time?

Well it's entirely up to you but drilling a hole seems a bit counterproductive to me as it could potentially cause more problems. I know the area you speak of where the subframe mounts and I was able to access it with a flexible wand and also confirm that the area was saturated.

What was done last time?

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?170294-Rust-holes-in-Floor-Sills-Help-Please

Well it's entirely up to you but drilling a hole seems a bit counterproductive to me as it could potentially cause more problems. I know the area you speak of where the subframe mounts and I was able to access it with a flexible wand and also confirm that the area was saturated.

 

Kind of like using an auto bailer plug to have an easy access to the rear sill area.......

Hi Russ, feel your pain mate.

You could remove the two bolts that retain the sub-frame and and insert your lance there.

That way you will directly next to the area in question.

Edited July 2, 20169 yr by redwine300

I just had a look Russ. What did you do with the targa drain?

I just had a look Russ. What did you do with the targa drain?

 

I fitted a new one that sticks out of the bottom as per OEM placement.....

 

I will cut out a bigger section as it is rusty upward of the hole to see how bad it is tomorrow after I remove all of the suspension and braking for refurb.....

 

If it isn't too bad I am going to clean it out, wire brush it, rust killer painted on and then zinc primer it all....... I need to make a new panel now..... lol

Repair panel now cut and ready for welding in place..... Tomorrow morning I shall be double checking the plate, cutting as much rust out as needed, treating the inside of the sill...... and hopefully tacking the plate in place....