Hi guys, after while got my engine back in the zed, hooked up and went to start. Let her turn over a while to prime fuel and oil.

 

Now went to start but she wont fire. Took coils out and checked for spark, good strong spark.

Checked for fuel pressure, and it's definitely there!

Did the screwdriver check on injectors and all of them are clicking away nicely which i assume means they must be operating? They are series 1 injectors from which i gather they are proone to failure though.

 

Now, we took the plugs out and usually when cranking over so much you notice the unburnt fuel smell starting, didn't have that. Plug came out dry and no smell of fuel to them

 

Now to me i'd say its a fuel issue, as it starts and runs a couple seconds when you use easy start on it? But im no expert, hence why im asking you guy :)

 

Any suggestion on where to look are greatly appreciated!

Update, found fuel wasnt getting past the FPR, going to play around with that and see if we can get it to work

Okay update, getting fuel in and out, checked all lines and they are in the right place.

Now when pressure is relieved from the lines, and then then you turn over the car it picks up and starts to run for a few seconds then cuts out again. Then from there you can crank it all you want there's no sign at all of it picking up. Any idea what would be causing this?

 

Im starting to get lost so desperate for some suggestions.

Have you tested the injectors? Give them an ohm test, can't remember what they should be off the top of my head but you'll find out quick enough on google!

 

Just the first thing worth trying really, just to eliminate them if anything

Just a vague thought, it's not your immobiliser is it? I know modern cars often cut the fuel to immobilise it, but I don't know if old aftermarket systems do the same thing. I would be surprised if it was this but thought I might as well throw it out there anyway...

Maybe the PTU? What series car have you got

Injectors are definitely opening, had the plugs out and can see fuel in the cylinder and injects when you turn it over. Fuel pressure is very good, made sure with an aftermarket gauge. Spark is strong, had coils out and checked so that should eliminate PTU? Going to get a timing light and make sure the timing is okay.

 

Now at risk of sounding like a fool do the cars have immobilisers from factory? No aftermarket system on the car and was under the impression they had no factory one?

I take it it's turning over?

Maybe the PTU? What series car have you got

 

Not that old chestnut please ! The series 1 failed PTU myth again

Not that old chestnut please ! The series 1 failed PTU myth again

 

Ha ha love that Jim !! I have a big fat spark !! Bet the PTU has failed !! lol

 

Jeff

From what I understand the fuel ecu chucks quite high pressure at the rail for a fixed short term, to prime the system and allow the engine to crank over. So whilst you may have good pressure initially it could be falling on its face.

 

Have you run the ECU for codes?

 

9/10 times this sorta thing is a forgotten earth etc. Did you disturb the engine while it was out. Timing belt etc? I suspect this is a simple issue you've just missed. I had a very similar issue myself not that long ago and it was simply that I had not seated the ECU plug correctly.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Not that old chestnut please ! The series 1 failed PTU myth again

 

Especially when it's on a stone cold engine.

Edited July 1, 20169 yr by Stephen

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, greatly appreciated. Turns out the belt was out by a tooth or 2.

 

After i got a hold of a pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure I deduced the only other factor had to be timing. Adjusted the cas as far as it could go and was still too advanced, so had to strip the front back down, re did the timing belt, set the CAS to its original position and it fired up with no hesitation and ran sweet as a nut. Will be setting the base timing up tomorrow properly.

 

The engine was stripped down for inspection after the turbos gave up, since it was the perfect opportunity to do it. Bottom end was in great shape but reground valves and rebuilt lifters while the heads were off, full gasket kit and 120k service done at the same time.

 

Honestly cant understand how that's happened but only myself to blame here. Luckily it wasn't too far out, but I always like to, once any timing work has been done, crank the over by hand before trying to start it to prevent that happening.

Not that old chestnut please ! The series 1 failed PTU myth again

For my own interest, series 1 ptus arent unreliable then?

Not that old chestnut please ! The series 1 failed PTU myth again

 

If that is the case, why did Nissan do this?

 

PTU_Recall_TSB.pdf

Wasn't that only in the U.S.? From what I understood JDM and Euro cars didn't receive the update, the suggestion being it was a climate issue.

Correct, US recall only. I think what Jim's getting at is that it's nowhere near as widespread as people think it is. Whilst I have an S2 PTU, I never ever had an issue with my old S1 unit despite replacing it at the time (merely because I got it all free from the US, so thought 'why not').

 

Plenty of people still running around with S1 PTUs with no problem.

Indeed, I'm one if them.

My point was that it is not a myth. Nissan issued the TSB as a precautionary measure.

Edited July 2, 20169 yr by AndrewG

And speaking of climates, my Z certainly has a tropical climate of its own under that bonnet after a drive!

 

I replaced my fully functional "series 1" PTU around 10 years ago when it was apparently failing on every car 3 times a week and if I didn't replace mine within 5 working days, my car would catch fire and the seatbelt would not release... Sorry; I mean when it was fashionable and the group buys were tempting!

Ahem, ahem s1 ptu dead...

That 25 year old electronic component you mean?

And speaking of climates, my Z certainly has a tropical climate of its own under that bonnet after a drive!!

 

It certainly was after your radiator hose let go!

First thing I do after a drive is open the bonnet to let all that heat out.

More often than not its the corrosion on the pins that fry the ptu with high resistance,They dont fail every trip out and many people still have them including myself.Many a series 2 ptu has been fitted for no reason whatsover in the quest to solve a minor issue that was unrelated.Howards series 2 ptu was fried fresh out the box from new.And quite often when swapping the ptu,dirty pins and plug to clean pins and dirty plug a connection is able to be made and the owner rejoices at solving the fault when all was needed was a more thorough clean of the ptus terminals.