Ok so soon I should be ready to start the build of my na auto z, some of you may have seen my newbie thread that I have started. The plan is to strip her down engine out ect ect and sort the body first, bushes, suspension, under seal, all the usual things. Ok so with the engine out I want to re-build the na engine forging it at the same time, my aim is for 500whp with nice torque.

 

So the questions.

1. Internals, what brand do people tend to use when building up the vg and also is there anywhere in the uk that can supply as when looking a lot of the parts ect I'd like to use are in the u.s.

2. Turbos, what turbo's would people recommend using for the power, I'd rather have a nicely matched set up that just sticking some turbos on. Gt2560r ? Or is that overkill.

3. Management, I have searched but can't really find what I'm looking for. Now I know a lot op people have good power using the o.e.m ect with a chip would that be enough for my power goal or would it be standalone time ?

4. Cams, would I need to use more aggressive cams, not in the z community but I have seen elswere people putting stupidly aggressive cams in when there really is no need for there set up, overkill. So would the standard cams be up to the job, I'm debating weather to have my heads ported but I will be port matching the head/manifold.

 

That's about it any replies are much appreciated. By far the most friendly/helpful forum from what iv seen so far.

 

Cheers,, Sean

id personally look to replace the na autobox, I was always told they were weaker then the tt autoboxs,

 

if your rebuilding, the na engine isn't that different to the tt engine (link) might be some help.

Cheers for the link and yes I'm using the n/a engine might aswell as its here and going to be built anyway. Doing a full manual conversion forgot to mention that

up grade wheels size wider tyres and brakes first

Tyres and wheels sorted gonna keep what I have but with some decent tyres 265 should be ok ?. Breaks is a good shout as the ones on there now are deadly stomp on them and slows half as bad as my focus. What's people's recommendations on brakes would the skyline route be enough ?

Wiesco pistons with Eagle rods are pretty tried and tested. The NA engine is so similar to the TT. Really it's only the Pistons that vary. Although there's some suggestion that the NA heads are slightly more restrictive. Crank, rods(gudgeon pins are different) cams and block are all the same. Exhaust valves are different, TT ones being of a different material. Oil squirters are different but if you are going forged you will want the NA ones anyway.

Do you know what phase NA engine you've got? The later ones that feature 10Y heads use a different lower plenum that can accomdate the later style injectors without adapters.

Wiesco pistons with Eagle rods are pretty tried and tested. The NA engine is so similar to the TT. Really it's only the Pistons that vary. Although there's some suggestion that the NA heads are slightly more restrictive. Crank, rods(gudgeon pins are different) cams and block are all the same. Exhaust valves are different, TT ones being of a different material. Oil squirters are different but if you are going forged you will want the NA ones anyway.

Do you know what phase NA engine you've got? The later ones that feature 10Y heads use a different lower plenum that can accomdate the later style injectors without adapters.

Cheers for the reply that's the combo I was thinking regarding the Pistons and rods, not sure on the phase of engine but it's in a 1991 z so assuming it's that. So cams are the same as turbo, I think the cams will be fine for my power I want, would I need to build my heads or would a oem freshen up be fine ?

Try and get a higher spending limit on your credit cards as your going to need em!!!:clown:

Cams are the same throughout the range aside from the ones fitted to TT autos. If it's a 91 then it's likely phase 1 30P heads.

Try and get a higher spending limit on your credit cards as your going to need em!!!:clown:

 

as am in the middle of this i have agree with bri you need a deeeeeeeeeeep pot of cash to do this work proper and one thing leads to another i have spend a lot so far to the point its not even funny now infact i would say it got a little out of hand :cursing:

Ok so think I'm going to just re-fresh the head's, I'm trying not to think about the money :online2long: I was planning 2jz might be a cheaper option haha

as am in the middle of this i have agree with bri you need a deeeeeeeeeeep pot of cash to do this work proper and one thing leads to another i have spend a lot so far to the point its not even funny now infact i would say it got a little out of hand :cursing:

 

It still beats B&Q garden furniture or drugs and dirty women though Danny so spend away before the undertaker is knocking on your front door...and that goes for the OP too.

It still beats B&Q garden furniture or drugs and dirty women though Danny so spend away before the undertaker is knocking on your front door...and that goes for the OP too.

 

i see yes bri your rite you never know do you am on it dont worry car will be done

What power and what management are people using ?

Haltech platinum pro plug in. There are others that will do similar to the z, but very few if any are direct plug in.

 

I ran 500rwhp for about 8 months on a custom mapped chip, worked fine in terms of being able to be mapped to give that power, but had 25% of the safety features, which is what ultimately caused my engine to go pop.

 

Lesson learned from my experience, don't fork out £7,000 on a lovely forged engine and then try and protect it with a 30 year old computer!

Haltech platinum pro plug in. There are others that will do similar to the z, but very few if any are direct plug in.

 

I ran 500rwhp for about 8 months on a custom mapped chip, worked fine in terms of being able to be mapped to give that power, but had 25% of the safety features, which is what ultimately caused my engine to go pop.

 

Lesson learned from my experience, don't fork out £7,000 on a lovely forged engine and then try and protect it with a 30 year old computer!

Makes a lot of sense I guess power is an after thought I want reliability and drivability first

Makes a lot of sense I guess power is an after thought I want reliability and drivability first

On 600whp?

On 600whp?

 

500whp and yes I think that's a sensible figure to have if i want reliability and drivability. Do you disagree ?

Haltech platinum pro plug in. There are others that will do similar to the z, but very few if any are direct plug in.

 

I ran 500rwhp for about 8 months on a custom mapped chip, worked fine in terms of being able to be mapped to give that power, but had 25% of the safety features, which is what ultimately caused my engine to go pop.

 

Lesson learned from my experience, don't fork out £7,000 on a lovely forged engine and then try and protect it with a 30 year old computer!

 

from what i have been reading the stock ecu with a proper remap is more than up to the job of running that kind of power, ?

from what i have been reading the stock ecu with a proper remap is more than up to the job of running that kind of power, ?

 

It is and Nick did, but an aftermarket ecu opens up a world of failsafes that just weren't around 30 years ago.

Ok so think I'm going to just re-fresh the head's, I'm trying not to think about the money :online2long: I was planning 2jz might be a cheaper option haha

 

Unless you've got a spare 2JZ kicking about I doubt it. Engine swaps are expensive.

It is and Nick did, but an aftermarket ecu opens up a world of failsafes that just weren't around 30 years ago.

 

i under stand now. i red it like the ecu was not up to the job, from all the reading i have done on this it seems the combo of bad engine builds and bad mappers= big issues the problem i have come to find on here and am sure other sites is that its hard to get to the truth of who can do what ie engine builds and maps issues and who messed up. its like who do you trust its like russian roulette you hear good things them all of a sudden you here bad things its like who the hell do you trust am lucky i can do most of the work myself but am not upto a full rebuild nor can i map the car the car will need to mapped soon i did have that lined up after all the good reports then i got lots of bad report its very frustrating indeed infact i had issues when i first got the car with a trader woe messed up ,but i did have some luck witha trader who is a bit of a under dog but did a good job,

i under stand now. i red it like the ecu was not up to the job, from all the reading i have done on this it seems the combo of bad engine builds and bad mappers= big issues the problem i have come to find on here and am sure other sites is that its hard to get to the truth of who can do what ie engine builds and maps issues and who messed up. its like who do you trust its like russian roulette you hear good things them all of a sudden you here bad things its like who the hell do you trust am lucky i can do most of the work myself but am not upto a full rebuild nor can i map the car the car will need to mapped soon i did have that lined up after all the good reports then i got lots of bad report its very frustrating indeed infact i had issues when i first got the car with a trader woe messed up ,but i did have some luck witha trader who is a bit of a under dog but did a good job,

 

Depends on what you define as up to the job.

 

Can a stock Ecu have its fuelling and ignition timing adjusted to suit performance modifications: Yes

 

Can a stock Ecu monitor knock throughout the entire rev range: No it can't. It only detects knock up to circa 5200rpm. While a mapper can adjust the map to avoid knock whilst on a dyno using a set of det cans, the instant you take off the det cans, there ends your high rpm knock detection. The theory would be that once it's mapped it's safe, but that's ENTIRELY dependant on your car running in the way it ran on the dyno. Anything outside of those parameters, the Ecu was VERY limited capability to adjust to compensate.

 

Can a stock Ecu monitor fuel pressure/ oil pressure/ oil temp/ wideband O2 sensors/ egt sensors etc etc etc that enable finer tuning AND safety functions: No it cant

 

Can a stock Ecu adjust the map and engage safety measures to potentially save the engine should any of those sensor read outside whatever parameters you/mapper decide: No it cant.

 

Please don't take this as me being padantic, that's not my aim. But is the stock ECU fit for purpose to run AND keep safe a 300 hp performance engine.....

 

No. It's not.

Another question, am I right in thinking of the vg30dett as two separate engines, sort of I'm trying not to sound stupid but I mean obviously you have two turbos the air moves from the turbo trough the piping trough the intercooler and into the inlet manifold then into that head if that makes sense like two separate systems. If so how do people go about controlling boost ect as you would have one reading from one turbo / system then not from the other, how do you know what both the turbos are doing two boost controllers, two boost gauges, and the same on the exhaust side with something like a wideband sensor do you only read it of one pipe/turbo if so how do you know the other side is fuleing ect safely. Iv hered of the (balance) bar and if I'm right in what I'm thinking dose this keep thing even on the intake side of things so you would have even pressure throughout the whole system ?

The vg30dett has two parallel loops which act separately BUT, yes you have the balance bar which as you say evens the pressure from both parallel loops. A boost vacuum line for a boost controller or gauge is usually tee'd off from one of the balance bar lines.

Don't forget though they work in a cross over fashion, the left turbo drives the right bank etc.