Well, as many may know, I have recently discovered that my lower radiator cross member has finally succumbed to the dreaded tin worm.

Hopefully, this is day one of my journey to successfully repairing it with a suitable replacement.

Wish me luck, I think I will need it.

 

So, today I started the dismantling of the front end, and within a couple of hours I had removed the front bumper etc'

This was done on the driveway, and I hope to complete the rest of the work in the garage, hopefully.

 

I have reached the point where I am unfamiliar with most of the critical items that now stand in my way, and would seriously appreciate some advice as to how I should proceed.

 

First question/concern that springs to mind is... Can I continue successfully with the car being in the garage?

The last thing I want to do is get half way through the strip down only to find that I do not have the correct access.

The car is drivable at the moment, but once I start taking various parts off she will become immobile.

 

Your help and advise would be very much appreciated.

 

Please see photo's attached...

Edited May 29, 20169 yr by redwine300

Cheers guys,

 

I think I am going to need therapy after tonight's exploits, talk about frustrating.

Anyway, after 3 hours of agonisingly slow progress, I managed to wrestle free a couple of more bits that were in the way.

If this little lot ever goes back together right, I will eat my hat!

More photo's

Called it a day at this point.

Enough's enough!

Did you drop your Marmite jar?

What's your timing belt history? Would be a good opportunity after the crossmember is replaced mate.

 

If I was doing this I think I would weld in a temporary stiffener before you cut the crossmember to eliminate the risk of the ends of the chassis spreading, the subframe will of course help to some degree but it's surprising how much a chassis can move when you start cutting out main sections.

Edited June 1, 20169 yr by Chrisbasildon

Did you drop your Marmite jar?

 

:biggrin:

What's your timing belt history? Would be a good opportunity after the crossmember is replaced mate.

 

That's a great idea mate, they are over 10 years old! :oops:

 

I like the idea of welding in a brace bar, nice one.

That's a great idea mate, they are over 10 years old! :oops:

 

Do it mate, all the belts and pulleys and water pump :thumbup1:

Nice progress, stick with it

Those three hardlines (arrowed) are part of the carbon canister circuit. You can either junk them along with the CC or relocate using

a smaller CC. Remove the hardlines up to the joints with the rubber pipes above. You can sort reconnection/termination later.

 

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/6901.html

 

Did you drop your Marmite jar?

 

Looks like some ones used a cavity wax product.

What's your timing belt history? Would be a good opportunity after the crossmember is replaced mate.

 

If I was doing this I think I would weld in a temporary stiffener before you cut the crossmember to eliminate the risk of the ends of the chassis spreading, the subframe will of course help to some degree but it's surprising how much a chassis can move when you start cutting out main sections.

 

How about a piece of 5-10mm plate, drill holes at the end and use the bolts provided for the bumper support to pin in in place. There's three each end. Shouldn't move far with this in place. Then when not needed it can simply be unbolted. No welding required, no cleanup aft wards. Just an idea. Should be man enough.

How about a piece of 5-10mm plate, drill holes at the end and use the bolts provided for the bumper support to pin in in place. There's three each end. Shouldn't move far with this in place. Then when not needed it can simply be unbolted. No welding required, no cleanup aft wards. Just an idea. Should be man enough.

 

Nice idea Steven, I'll have a look at that.

Nice idea Steven, I'll have a look at that.

 

Couple of pieces of 3mm angle iron will do............

Cheers Mantav8, I think we may have some laying around at work.

 

One thing that is concerning me is this, how come the underside of the cross member has collapsed upwards at the anchor points that are directly attached to the chassis? I am reluctant to release these as I am worried they may be under tension. You can see the right hand side one in post #28 coloured black. Should I disconnect the suspension arm first ?

The problem is people use that point to jack up the car. You are supposed to use the subframe further under. But some people cannot be bothered to raise the car high enough to get to it so the front support member is there "next best thing"

The support cross member is only thin steel and cannot support the weight of the whole front end hence it collapsing upwards.

The problem is people use that point to jack up the car. You are supposed to use the subframe further under. But some people cannot be bothered to raise the car high enough to get to it so the front support member is there "next best thing"

The support cross member is only thin steel and cannot support the weight of the whole front end hence it collapsing upwards.

 

I take your point Hellraiser, but the car has never been jacked up using the cross member, I always use the sub frame along with a block of wood to spread the load.

I just can not understand why the suspension arm appears to have moved upwards, it looks so robust in comparison to the rad support. looks in very good condition also.

 

Maybe it is the fact that the centre part has dropped down under the weight of the radiators?

I just want to be sure than when I unbolt the suspension arms nothing moves, I will need to take accurate dimensions before cutting out.

Edited June 3, 20169 yr by redwine300

I take your point Hellraiser, but the car has never been jacked up using the cross member, I always use the sub frame along with a block of wood to spread the load.

I just can not understand why the suspension arm appears to have moved upwards, it looks so robust in comparison to the rad support. looks in very good condition also.

 

Not by you maybe. But you haven't owned it since new ;)

Not by you maybe. But you haven't owned it since new ;)

 

True, but I have had it 12 years now and I know the underside like the back of my hand.

It has only just appeared, that's what is so puzzling.

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&slide=43

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&slide=42

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Underside measurements http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&slide=44

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&slide=42

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Underside measurements http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&slide=44

 

Cheers bud. :thumbup1:

No problem. Hope it goes well :)

True, but I have had it 12 years now and I know the underside like the back of my hand.

It has only just appeared, that's what is so puzzling.

 

It is a surprisingly common component (along with the sills) to be damaged by lazy/ignorant/careless third parties when jacking

up the car. For example - new tires fitted by a tyre shop.

It is a surprisingly common component (along with the sills) to be damaged by lazy/ignorant/careless third parties when jacking

up the car. For example - new tires fitted by a tyre shop.

 

Good point Andrew, but I only let the car be jacked up when going through the MOT, and I specify and supervise during the test.

Other than that, I fit exhausts myself and the tyres get fitted off the car.

 

I would just like to understand if there is any load being held under compression from the suspension as I am getting close to removing the fixing bolts.