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I have a clonk on my drivers side, which I think to be my front upright (not fully investigated yet)

 

My questions are, where do I get one for a reasonable cost? Are they serviceable?

 

https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/FrontSuspension.png

 

I can find lots of camber arms and adjustable parts, just not this.

Thanks

Mark

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  • Author

I need to get it apart. But I fear it will be the upright. Yes that picture is deceiving but its all the parts in 1 picture. Can bushes be replaced? I'm hoping it is a drop link because I already have a spare haha.

  • Author

WP_20160405_20_24_32_Pro_zpsiptr98y7.jpg

This concerned me, but then i pulled the sleeve back and it seemed fine.

Theres nothing under there that i can get a clonk out of now, nothing seems out of place or worn.

 

Also what is this

WP_20160405_20_36_11_Pro_zps7gvpixyu.jpg

 

Part of the aiv?

WP_20160405_20_36_37_Pro_zps04zrpg0g.jpg

 

And these plugs?WP_20160405_20_42_40_Pro_zpszkpqk9q7.jpg

 

I think someone beat me to the deletes but didnt finish it.

You need the axle stand or jack off of the subframe or suspension parts and jack it on the jacking point or you are compressing the bushes.

 

Yes AIV probably deleted in the system but associated parts not removed.

  • Author

We were able to get a clonk with the car on the floor, i thought i could recreate the scenario with the axle stand, but i will try without aswell.

And i will get all that aiv stuff out.

As above, it's unlikely to be that upright. The only 'wearable' part on that is the kingpin and they don't often wear out.

  • Author

I really hope its not the kingpin, because that looks like a pain to get out.

 

Will investigate further.

Cheers guys.

I have a clonk on my drivers side, which I think to be my front upright (not fully investigated yet)

 

My questions are, where do I get one for a reasonable cost? Are they serviceable?

 

https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/FrontSuspension.png

 

I can find lots of camber arms and adjustable parts, just not this.

 

Thanks

Mark

 

 

i have stipped my both up rite and fitted new bearing that were clonking, the king pin wil be fine if its clonking form the up rite it will be the bearing more than likely the top bearing just trying to find the pics for you from when i did it,

cant seem to find them, found one pic you can see i stipped it down in the top rite of the pic you can see were the bearing go,s that part then slips onto the king pin. it will be pretty easy to find when you jack the car up. my drivers side king pin bearing as shot was a fair bit of play in it. get the bearing from mike. its not hard to do when its off the car you wont need to remove the king pin form the hub. just the uprite thats held in with one nut in the tip under a plastic cap

SDC12467.jpg

found a few more for you see here the kig pin is still in the hud see in the pic the plastic cap the nut you want remove is under that

SDC12479.jpg

SDC12490.jpg

SDC12488.jpg

  • Author

OOh nice shiny parts.

I bet that was satisfying putting that together.

 

I will give it a good checking. So its not the end of the world really.

its easy mate if you have any issues post here and i will help you

here are the bearing SDC12480.jpg

  • Author

WP_20160413_18_37_05_Pro_zpsmtzbwfhz.jpg

 

That joint looks a little dry, all the juice gone maybe.

 

That king pin cap didnt want to move, but didnt seem worn.

 

WP_20160413_18_36_47_Pro_zpswunxdcqd.jpg

 

I think that shock looks pretty suspect now.

Your tension arm looks to have a poly bush and looks fine, the gaitor on the shock being shot, could let in grit and dirt and eventually effect your shocks performance but but unlikely to be causing the clonk, sounds more like a movement issue, ie drop link movement

 

You would fail an MOT though on the shock gaitor

  • Author

Yes fully polybushed i believe, and they make a racket squeaking aswell.

Will investigate the droplinks further.

I do have a spare, ill see if i can get it on and see what happens

Thanks

Replace the polybushes. They look like old ones with closed cell design on the outer skin and will squeak like a *******, Jimmer sells high quality PU bushes with a hatched surface which will hold lubricant gel. Bung him a message.

 

I personally steer clear of PU bushes where I can, but anything I've fitted have been supplied by Jimmer and they're good quality and haven't squeaked once.

  • Author

I would prefer standard bushes if i can still get them for reasonable money. So theres a couple of issues here really, shock sleeve deap, squeaking bushes and a clonk (possibly droplink) I knew i shouldnt have bought another zed.

Turns out i cant PM anymore. Is that a subscription thing?

 

Afraid so sparky, only subscribed members can PM.:thumbup1: The good news is, it doesn't cost as much to renew a subscription (only £10) compared to £20. well worth it for all the help and advice you get over 12 months:thumbup:

Got me worried now Groover - MOT this afternoon and a couple of my gaitors not great. Checked MOT guidelines and got the info below.

Reasons for rejection. (No mention of gaitors). All due respect to your knowledge but I hope you're wrong lol

 

1.

 

a. no shock absorbers fitted to a vehicle on which they are standard

 

b. a shock absorber missing

 

 

 

2.

a. External damage or corrosion to the casing of a shock absorber so that the unit does not function

b. an insecure or detached shock absorber.

 

 

3. A fluid leakage serious enough to indicate that the fluid seal of a shock

absorber has failed.

 

 

4. An excessively worn shock absorber linkage, pivot or bush.

 

 

5. A shock absorber which has negligible damping effect.

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