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Featured Replies

I'm sure that would be fine, however with the amount of problems I've read over the years, ideally I'd be looking for a UK cluster.

I think you can change a resistor or something as well can't you? I'm sure someone will know

Membership No 0780

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Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

  • Author
I'm sure that would be fine, however with the amount of problems I've read over the years, ideally I'd be looking for a UK cluster.

 

Don't really want to change this cluster if possible.http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=95505&d=1459015773

I wanted to keep original clocks & fitted a kph to mph converter.

There is a write up on it & yes I cut & soldered the circuit!

Did not have to do any more!

image.jpeg

  • Author
I wanted to keep original clocks & fitted a kph to mph converter.

There is a write up on it & yes I cut & soldered the circuit!

Did not have to do any more!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95550[/ATTACH]

Hi, thanks, I need a course for dummies, what circuit did you cut and solder? And the photo is of???

Cheers.

I have that exact item which I bought but never used, as I came across a UK cluster. You can have it if u want for £15 posted. Can't find the parerwork showing which wires go where though, but someone on here should be able to help.

I've never personally like this method of cutting into the track as there is no way back.

 

When doing mine I just cut the cable on the loom and put a bullet connector on both sides then

if for any reason I need to take it out just plug them back together.

 

I wanted to keep original clocks & fitted a kph to mph converter.

There is a write up on it & yes I cut & soldered the circuit!

Did not have to do any more!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95550[/ATTACH]

I've never personally like this method of cutting into the track as there is no way back,

 

Mmm... but if you snipped the yellow cable and put a ring connector on it and it would fit back under the speedo screw, or solder in a link cable, personally as the pulse voltage / current is so low I do not like bullet connectors as they can tarnish over time and become high resistance to low voltage or just be not a good connection, good soldering however is neat.

 

But I do see the bullet connector method can be accessed quickly without speedo cluster removal to return back to kph, as long as the +12v and -12v is taken from the loom also, was a pain I found when removing a cluster to find when the main connectors were undone there was delimiter cables connected to both the speedo cluster and the loom.

 

 

Jeff

Edited by JeffTT

Just need to be proficient at crimping and use the correct tools.

 

I have seen some dodgy connections on zeds I've seen but as long as the crimp is suitable for the gauge of wire and its solid

it should be good enough. not that i'm saying its better than the old solder technique.

 

 

Mmm... but if you snipped the yellow cable and put a ring connector on it and it would fit back under the speedo screw, or solder in a link cable, personally as the pulse voltage / current is so low I do not like bullet connectors as they can tarnish over time and become high resistance to low voltage or just be not a good connection, good soldering however is neat.

 

But I do see the bullet connector method can be accessed quickly without speedo cluster removal to return back to kph, as long as the +12v and -12v is taken from the loom also, was a pain I found when removing a cluster to find when the main connectors were undone there was delimiter cables connected to both the speedo cluster and the loom.

 

 

Jeff

  • Author

To be honest I haven't got a clue, if the delimiter converter works ok it'll be off to a garage to get it done.

Also a few years ago I had an old Road Angel plugged in in an import Supra and it gave a mph reading without subscription, a few on eBay just now for a few pounds, any thoughts.

Just need to be proficient at crimping and use the correct tools.

 

I have seen some dodgy connections on zeds I've seen but as long as the crimp is suitable for the gauge of wire and its solid

it should be good enough. not that i'm saying its better than the old solder technique.

 

Yes and yes, horses for courses I guess, that said, sure we have both seen some soldering nightmares too eh?

 

Jeff

If you have a TT, then fitting a UK cluster set is by far and away the 'best' solution. With the limited resistor, you're reducing the point at where the HICAS operates as it takes a pulse from the cluster. Now, this isn't a problem if you're getting rid of it, but if you're looking to retain that feature, then I highly suggest fitting UK clocks.

  • Author
If you have a TT, then fitting a UK cluster set is by far and away the 'best' solution. With the limited resistor, you're reducing the point at where the HICAS operates as it takes a pulse from the cluster. Now, this isn't a problem if you're getting rid of it, but if you're looking to retain that feature, then I highly suggest fitting UK clocks.

Hi, it's the white n/a 99 spec car just sold to me by gazwoz.

Cheers.

Hi, it's the white n/a 99 spec car just sold to me by gazwoz.

Cheers.

 

NA so no HICAS, do whatever you prefer/cheaper. Personally I like the look of UK spec more, but if you want to solder in the thingyabob then it should do the same job fine.

  • Author
NA so no HICAS, do whatever you prefer/cheaper. Personally I like the look of UK spec more, but if you want to solder in the thingyabob then it should do the same job fine.

 

I want to keep the original clocks, white with a Z emblem, look good to me, matter of taste.

Thanks.

hmm very strange, these are your clocks:

attachment.php?attachmentid=95505&d=1459015773

Like the mph clocks they go up to 180, (kph go to 290) and white like the UK clocks, but they are some kind of aftermarket.

There's a good thread from 2014

Kph to mph asked by Cookieman I think?

Jeff tt put up the pics of what to do which is what I did!

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