As my car is an Auto converted to Manual, I have 3 balance bars, 1 has an extra pipe fitting (manual?) and the other two don't (Auto?), my question is does it matter which is fitted on a converted car? that is to say, do I need the extra vacuum fitting , I've read somewhere that it's a clutch booster vacuum hose fitting, do I have a clutch booster on my conversion??

Thanks in advance guys

Rich

Dunno - do you have a clutch booster fitted...?

I've read somewhere that it's a clutch booster vacuum hose fitting, do I have a clutch booster on my conversion??

 

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Edited February 5, 20169 yr by AndrewG

How heavy is the clutch? I didn't have a clutch booster when my old zed got converted, it was real heavy

Thanks guys, I haven't a clue and to be quite frank, I'm so stressed and pissed off over that Redbaron ****er screwing me over for a third time that I can't even think straight right now!!! 7 years on and the **** is still causing me stress and hassle!!

I'm going to go off for a bit and cool down, can't think straight and i've a splitting headache!!

I'll try and re-address this later,

thanks

When i have a manual conversion done should I ask to have a clutch booster fitted? or would i be ok without?

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]94048[/ATTACH]

 

When I did my conversion don't recall doing one of them I'll check in the morning for you bud

When i have a manual conversion done should I ask to have a clutch booster fitted? or would i be ok without?

 

Stock clutch with booster is very light for a car like this. Might be better without.

Fit the clutch servo under the dash as it's supposed to be, no point having a heavy clutch for no reason, take a vacuum line from the pipe going to the brake servo, but don't just bodge up some crappy pipe with oversize jubilee clamps, get correct size silicon hose and a nice metal T piece and use proper O clips with the ears that are crimped each side for a proper tidy and safe job :yes:

With or without the clutch vacuum tank you still need to connect the lines up to the balance bar.

 

If you have an auto balance bar then just splice into the brake master vacuum pipe with a Y adaptor as I did in my old zed.

 

Just remember you still need a non return valve else the brake and clutch will be fighting each other when you use the pedals.

 

But he's got a manual balance bar. So he should just use it lol

I know, this was more of an informative post for everyone else.

 

But he's got a manual balance bar. So he should just use it lol

I know, this was more of an informative post for everyone else.

 

like me :)

like me :)

 

To answer your post, I'd personally say the clutch booster should come with the manual conversion you'd buy. Personally I think it hold definitely be fitted. I think it sucked when I didn't have it fitted. Very heavy clutch

Agree on that, my zed has one and clutch is nice and light.

To answer your post, I'd personally say the clutch booster should come with the manual conversion you'd buy. Personally I think it hold definitely be fitted. I think it sucked when I didn't have it fitted. Very heavy clutch

Although posted before its worth a mention, the non turbo had almost the same clutch yet did not have a booster but a different design clutch pedal and master cylinder with more leverage. A common fault with the tt boosters is they leak, causing odd running issue`s at first and then fail completely so there is no assistance and often get blanked off then due to increased running issue from leaking vacuum and a heavy clutch feel is what is left.

 

The boosters are silly money from Nissan ( circa £400 ) and given not many good ones come up second hand because they should be sold with a manual conversion, however the cost of a new non turbo master cylinder and non turbo clutch pedal assembly is half that of a new booster, and having done several conversions this way can confirm the pedal is as light as a TT with booster?? Nissan over engineering for the TT I guess.

 

Splitting the vacuum from the balancer bar from one outlet to the brakes and clutch is a bad idea, if the clutch booster fails you will loose brake booster assistance too, not nice to find that out on a downhill section, also there can be a weird feeling when braking and dipping the clutch at the same time when the two boosters are demanding vacuum, always fit the correct balancer bar and separate vacuum feeds with two different check valves.

 

Jeff

Edited February 6, 20169 yr by JeffTT

Hi Jeff,

 

I had two non return valves fitted to my setup to combat that effect but I have since moved to a manual balance bar.