Hey,

 

All my brake pipes are corroded to hell and leaking (non runner project car). I've replaced a lot of brake pipes before no problem, but I'm wondering if anyone has some advice/opinions if they have had it done? I have a pipeline diagram and have a pretty good idea of whats going on.

 

As far as the actual connections at the rear go though, the corroded nuts and awkward access don't look too good.

 

I'm wondering if anyone has actually rerouted their new pipes instead? I.e. drilling holes at either side of the boot for the new pipes to be sized and fitted easily.

 

My main worry is the rear pipes, as they don't have their individual pipes from the ABS actuator. Instead they share one pipe which has a splitter. I wouldn't want to create a braking imbalance from pressure travel distance.

 

Cheers

You two still at it! Sort it out like men instead of bickering on here like a couple of little girls.

 

Doesn't look good people reading this kind of crap.

haha ..

You two still at it! Sort it out like men instead of bickering on here like a couple of little girls.

 

Doesn't look good people reading this kind of crap.

 

They're not the only two if you've seen Facebook over the last few days :lol:

what i missed on there ?

They're not the only two if you've seen Facebook over the last few days :lol:

 

Anything to do with balaclavas and baseball bats in Yorkshire, by any chance....?

They're not the only two if you've seen Facebook over the last few days :lol:

 

Please don't tell me you're on that God-awful UK NISMO 300zx facebook page. I removed myself and blocked any further invites from that page. It's utterly tragic - if ever there was a reason not to own a Z32, it's all on that particular facebook page! :rofl: :lol:

Anything to do with balaclavas and baseball bats in Yorkshire, by any chance....?

 

Nope, it was two other well-known traders. :p

About removing the prop from the diff (R230)..

 

Tried to bend the corners (circled in cyan) to try ease it up but still completely solid.

 

Any suggestions, other than removing the prop at the front end?

 

Cheers

 

 

no need to bend any corners m8 .. where the opening is on the input housing .. u can see the gold looking part that sits in side it .. just tap it and do the same on the other opening side

once its loose its not going to fall out untill you drop the sub frame

Cheers mark. 25 years of corrosion had taken away any colouring, but all about that sweet spot. Off now!

 

Thanks for the help all. Should be a doddle from here