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Ok, I'm painting my car with cellulose paint next month, in a gazebo - everything as usual on a strict budget...

 

My Zed is primed and rubbed down, and ready for the base coat. I've been praticing on other parts - nose panel, targa stips, door handles etc. I'm getting the hang of spraying, finding it annoying how every little imperfection shows up with the base coat - why can I still see score marks from sanding, even after rubbing down the primer with 600 grit?!

 

I don't plan to use clear coat, due to the extra cost, and the added risk of screwing up at the end. It should also be easier to respray anything I'm unhappy with at the end.

 

The paint I'm using is this, which dries glossy -

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1L-Mystery-Purple-Cellulose-Metallic-Gloss-Car-Paint-Custom-Colour-Celly-/330405867444?hash=item4cedb96fb4

 

Now, I understand, from all my research, that I'm meant to rub down my finished paint with 1200 / 1400 grit, then use a cutting compund / paste to eliminate the scratches, polishing to a glossy finish. I've tried this on the targa end strips and it just leaves dull finish, the other freshly painted untouched targa strip looks way better. So why do I need to use a cutting compund, it looks fine the way it is. Can't I just seal the fresh paint with wax? If I has orange peel I could understand, but it's already a smooth finish.

 

Any advice would be great.

 

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  • Author
I used to do bodywork many many years ago and it's sooo much more difficult than most people first imagine!

 

That looks suspiciously like one of those colour-flip TVR colours to me... am I right...?

 

It's controlling everything at once - the movment speed across the panel, keeping roughly the same distance away from the body, trying to overlap enough so the paint merges, whilst a the same time applying the right amount of pressure to the trigger so you spray the right amount of paint!

 

Sadly it's not flip paint, though I wish it was. I did at one point look at some colour changing flakes which you add to the clear coat, but I think that's pushing it given that I'm having trouble spaying metallic properly, so maybe in the future when I'm more experienced. :)

I've only tried painting small areas before, it's a steep learning curve.

 

Same with polishing, looks easy but to achieve a top finish takes practice.

 

I was told buy a good guy that you should never attempt a large area, until you can get a small area 100% perfect, and this worked for me.

 

Hope you get it sorted mate.

  • 5 months later...
  • Author

So, you may remember my painting escapade of last year.

 

Well, I wasn't happy with result I was left with, which was my own fault really as I hadn't mixed the paint thoroughly (and it had been standing for a year...) so I was left with the majority of the metallic flakes in the bottom of the tin, and when sprayed made the finish really light in colour... However, the weather got bad and the gazebo collapsed, the poles came apart, leaving the fresh paint scratched and gouged, it was a mess.

 

So, I got more paint, and resprayed. I've also applied several coats of clear lacquer. I still need to respray the bonnet as some neat paint/thinners mix got on it and melted a big hole down to the original paint. Joy. I also dropped one of the wing mirrors and cracked it...

 

I'm very happy with the finish, the clear coat made a massive difference, thanks to everyone who convinced me. :)

 

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So, I need to rub down the clear coat and polish, and just wanted to run my plans past everyone.

 

I'm going to rub down with 2500 grit gently with a lot of water until everywhere is flat.

 

I have a couple of runs in the clear coat to deal with, nothing major, so I'll sort these out at the same time.

 

I then plan to polish with G3. Will this do the job? - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-264569-Sander-Polisher-1200/dp/B002QS1LZ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1459083351&sr=8-4&keywords=polishing+mop

 

Then apply a ton of quality wax. :)

 

Any advice is appreciated, I don't want to ruin my nice paint!

 

Cheers,

Edited by MasterCookieman

I wouldn't apply wax yet. You need to give the paint plenty of time to flash-off. I'd start off with 2500grit and then 3000grit and then polish. I'd polish with an orbital machine polisher too.

 

What did you paint it with? Cellulose?

 

Good effort by the way!

  • Author
I wouldn't apply wax yet. You need to give the paint plenty of time to flash-off. I'd start off with 2500grit and then 3000grit and then polish. I'd polish with an orbital machine polisher too.

 

What did you paint it with? Cellulose?

 

Good effort by the way!

 

Cheers,

 

Yep, good old cellulose. lol I know many hate it, but it was easier and cheaper. It just worked for me.

  • Author
Not too shabby that!-take your time buffing it and it will look loads better.

 

Cheers, yes, it's turned out a lot better than I'd hoped for. I'm very happy with it considering the conditions I've worked in, and being a total newbie to painting.

 

The price of orbital machine polishers is scaring me a bit though!

Cheers, yes, it's turned out a lot better than I'd hoped for. I'm very happy with it considering the conditions I've worked in, and being a total newbie to painting.

 

The price of orbital machine polishers is scaring me a bit though!

 

Not that bad mate....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline-Mop-Car-Polisher-Kit-9-Heads-Autoexpress-award-winning-machine-/231337836302?hash=item35dccf3f0e:g:m54AAOSwLN5WlYXD

^^^ yep that Silverline one is the same as my mates one and is very good for the money.

 

Nice paint job. I need a gazebo lol

It looks like you oversprayed your wheels and tyres or is that the light?

  • Author
It looks like you oversprayed your wheels and tyres or is that the light?

 

There is over spray on the wheels, but I always planned to replace them as one was buckled...long story, so it didn't matter. I'm thinking maybe keep the best two and put winter tyres on them, as once she's on the road she'll be a daily driver.

That's more the price I has in mind, though not orbital. I guess as long as I keep it on the move I'll be ok?

 

Why would you want an orbital polisher?

mate thats a great effort!! Well impressed. Look forward to seeing the final pics. Interested to know the final cost of the DIY respray!

Well done, rewarding isn't it. I did my bonnet with a gun etc last summer, sadly I didn't realise not to put the cover on too quick and it blistered. Il have another crack when the weather improves.

  • Author
Well done, rewarding isn't it. I did my bonnet with a gun etc last summer, sadly I didn't realise not to put the cover on too quick and it blistered. Il have another crack when the weather improves.

 

It is rewarding when it all works out, yeah. :)

 

I'm hoping to get to the bonnet this weekend. It's the size of the thing, flies and such love it... and then there's avoiding streaks when spraying, which sometimes you think is fine until you stand back and look from a different angle!

FunkySi recommended an orbital machine polisher further up the thread.

 

That Silverline I linked to mate is the sort you need.Orbital to me suggests 'Dual Action' as in D.a sander,not what you want for polishing.

  • Author
mate thats a great effort!! Well impressed. Look forward to seeing the final pics. Interested to know the final cost of the DIY respray!

 

Thanks!!

 

I'll have to try and work it out, but I guess the main cost is the compressor, which of course can be used for many things other than powering a gun. The compressor was around £200. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolf-Cheyenne-V-Twin-150psi-Compressor/dp/B00EALKT6U/ref=sr_1_9?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1459370815&sr=1-9&keywords=wolf+compressor

 

The gun I bought was around £30, which had very good reviews, and it feels like a quality gun. I used this gun for the paint and lacquer. I used the cheapy gun that came with the compressor for the primer.

 

There's also things like a hose, and air filter / water trap. Oh, I bought an inline regulator as well, so in total all these came to about £40.

 

The Gazebo was about £50 from Ebay.

 

The primer / paint and lacquer all came from Ebay - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Nu-Agane-Car-Paints-01234-355990/Cellulose-Gloss-Paint-/_i.html?_fsub=3195635&_sid=40587497&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

 

I think I've spent about £300 on paint / base coat, but that's because I screwed up the first time, so it could have been £150.

 

Primer and Lacquer probably comes to around £100 - £150.

 

Gloss and standard thinners was around £12 a tin locally.

 

So overall, around £700. I could have done it cheaper, without so much primer, so much paint (at least I guess there are plenty of coats on now!). If I really wanted to I could probably sell the compressor for £150 once I'm finished with it, but I have no plans - it's very useful.

Edited by MasterCookieman

That Silverline I linked to mate is the sort you need.Orbital to me suggests 'Dual Action' as in D.a sander,not what you want for polishing.

 

Orbital polisher is fine. Less chance of burning the paint than a rotary. Remember he painted in celly and it hasn't been baked.

 

Rotary on everything else.

  • 2 weeks later...

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