Hopefully some of the zed experts can guide me here..

 

 

My zed has had a rattle since I got it, I'm out of ideas as too the cause now...

 

It's running fine, but it rattles on overrun at the lower rev range, also low in revs under load it rattles up a low speed hill etc.

 

Don't think it's the lifters, as one of my old zed's had them, and this is different,

 

Had brand new timing belt, all pulleys and tensioners, no faults on consult,

 

 

Thought it could have been vt springs, so just fitted new ones. Didn't seem weak, and we're getting oil, but Made little to no difference,

 

I've checked the exhuast for leaks just in case, there's no heat shields, nothing loose,

 

Doesn't seem to be affected by engine temp, does it all the time.

 

It's not causing any problems, and Tbh the engines only staying for a little while longer, but it's really annoying,

 

Bit lost at where to look next,

It's not a rattle type noise caused by resonance from the exhaust set up?

Could be detonation/pinking, have you done a knock sensor bypass or checked for codes?

Could it be a bearing?

who did the belt?

 

TPS, Idle control valve and CAS checks? I don't think conzult would show..

 

also if the belt was one cog off on one side you could get this..

 

(just my novice thoughts :))

Does it sound like a rattling heat sheild from the trans type area? Yet nothing Is loose...if so mine does the same it's worse when the cars cold, almost sounds like the exhaust is rattling. If so it's quite a common complaint. Couldn't tell you what it is though, I've given up with it as nothing appears to be wrong just a funny noise. Pretty sure we discussed it in so wine else's car recently.

Possibility that its detonation. Would be checking-

a. Timing- that's its not too far advanced. Using the loop at the PTU will give incorrect readings, as can using the wires at the actual coilpack. Using a short silicone lead from the coilpack to the spark plug, and using the timing light clamp around that is the most accurate method.

b. Timing belt- as mentioned above- That it wasn't installed 1 tooth out. Never rely on the timing marks on the belt. Have seen Dayco branded timing belt that are incorrectly marked. Counting teeth, as outlined in the manual is the only surefire way of correct fitment

Rattle was there before belt was done, and I did the belt, using all nissan parts, and the manual,

 

Had the covers off yesterday putting the springs in, I did check the marks lined up.

 

No error codes,

 

No knock sensor, been bypassed,

 

Thinking on it the cas doesn't look original, but looking at the timing info on the r-vit (constantly plugged into ecu) has alway looked in parameters...

 

Sounds like something for an expert to look at, not sure I want to start playing with my timing, maybe I'll take it to zedworld for it mot next year and have them look at it.

 

Thanks guys.

Answers underlined

 

Rattle was there before belt was done, and I did the belt, using all nissan parts, and the manual,

 

Had the covers off yesterday putting the springs in, I did check the marks lined up.

 

The marks on the cams will line up, the belt marks wouldnt be again after use, would take several thousand revolutions to be the same place again

 

No error codes,

 

No knock sensor, been bypassed,

 

Thinking on it the cas doesn't look original, but looking at the timing info on the r-vit (constantly plugged into ecu) has alway looked in parameters...

 

The ecu will show 15deg as thats the parameter it expects to see, however not a guarantee that the timing is at 15deg

Sounds like something for an expert to look at, not sure I want to start playing with my timing, maybe I'll take it to zedworld for it mot next year and have them look at it.

 

Thanks guys.

Guess I got lucky then, as the top marks lined straight up, should have said didn't take the bottom cover off,

 

I'll just have to put up with it for now.

Engines don't detonate/knock on overrun.

Can u do a video of the sound ?

I'll give it a go tomorrow.

Just tried 3 times to record it, there's too much distortion it's no clear enough.

 

It's definitely under load it worse, and under 2500-3000 rpm, and the overrun noise isn't there till revs drop quite a bit, good second after coming off the throttle,

 

Oh well, worth a try, need tovwork out how long it's staying with its current motor, before deciding where to go next.

Is it definitely engine related or transmission related?

It's relative to revs, so assumed it was engine, it's had a new fly, clutch, spigot bearing, and prop as well as new transmission fluid. Noise didn't change,

 

More I listen I think it could be echoing through the exhuast, but it doesn't do it on the ramp so can't tell

might be worn/defective VTC gears...you can use conzult to switch on/off the VTC (gears) and listen if this the cause of the rattle.

If so, you will need to replace both VTC sprockets

does it sound like this ?

 

 

Sounds like you need to get the worms out, you left a woodpecker in the engine mark. If you get stuck let me know I have a bird trap.

Thankfully no it doesn't, it's more rattle/ click style noise, as apposed to knocking.

 

Sounds similar to a manifold gasket leak if you know what I mean.

Sounds like you need to get the worms out, you left a woodpecker in the engine mark. If you get stuck let me know I have a bird trap.

 

haha

 

 

Thankfully no it doesn't, it's more rattle/ click style noise, as apposed to knocking.

 

Sounds similar to a manifold gasket leak if you know what I mean.

 

thats good .. prob just lazy/worn out vtc pulleys then

Might sound silly but vtc pulleys? The actual sprocket on intake cam or the thing on the back of the cam? Or have have I misses something? Sorry probably a stupid question.

intake cam sprocket m8

If you come over to South Croydon I'll plug in my ConZult and switch on/off the VTCs.

If you come over to South Croydon I'll plug in my ConZult and switch on/off the VTCs.

 

wont work m8 as its the cam sprockets them self that have gone lazy the oil can not keep them in the correct position

regardless if the vtc solenoid is on or off

Thanks, I have a spare pair of late spec sprockets, if i can find the time to strip it all down I might change them over.