Well finally got my engine from my old car into my new one, which I haven't driven for 3 1/2 years lol.

Been a long process, engine transplant, manual to auto conversion, some deletes Aircon, AVI, Carbon Canister. FPR also plenium water bypass and recon turbo's and front mount intercooler.

It was very reluctant to start was turning over nicely though, I checked for fuel and was present, than I checked spark, no spark on cylinder one but was now popping and burbling? then I sprayed crank angle sensor, maf, throttle position sensor and pyu with contact cleaner, and off it eventually went :D very pleased.

Now it's only on 4 (I think?) and properly sounds worse than a Subaru.

I have got my data scan working and It shows no faults and I think everything else works (o2 sensors etc.)

When I shut off cylinder 1 it stalls, 2,3,4,and 5 being shut off makes no difference? and again 6 being shut off it stalls. I have replaced the coil packs on cylinders 1 and 6, no difference, I have also sprayed contact cleaner on all coil packs.

These are brand new spark plugs installed.

I don't have a spare PTU to try.

I can't drive it as no fluids in brakes or clutch at moment.

Is it a pain to bleed water system after the bypass as its bled (left rad cap bubbling) but no heating.

 

Need a push in some sort of direction please cos pleading with it only got me so far as to firing on 4.

 

Quick Video which I took (Sorry about the sound wonder what I actually sound like when I'm on the phone??)

 

Edited August 12, 201411 yr by paulbrem
Inserted video

Well done for sticking with it. Can't help with your problem I'm afraid, but don't give after all this time you're nearly there now

I think i have a spare series one ptu you can try paul

This doesn't help you (sorry) but I'm in a very similar position, I've just started mine after about two and a half years. She turned over no problem, and started second time, but wassn't ideling very well and dropped out eventually. I havent started looking for the cause yet, but I don't think I'm firing on all six cylinders. I'm missing a section of exhaust, so it's very noisy to run and diagnose right now. I hope to fabricate and complete the the exhaust this week. If I come up with anything I'll let you know, but sounds like you've covered the obvious. Like you, I can't actually drive mine yet...very frustrating isn't it! :)

To bleed the rad, raise the front of the car slightly as air will naturally want to travel to the highest point, also put your heating on full, ie allowing water to go through the matrix, top up through the rad cap until no obvious bubbles show and water runs over the top of the cap, replace the cap and run up to temp then use the bleed screw to get rid of any further air that may be trapped in the system.

I think i have a spare series one ptu you can try paul

 

 

Thanks Ian, I'll sort that out with you if needed, I actually thought I had a spare myself but must have passed it on.

Nice work so far Paul and keep at it mate.:thumbup1:

It's probably running on two, you need to leave 1&6 alone and focus on the others. Are you getting spark on them?

It's probably running on two, you need to leave 1&6 alone and focus on the others. Are you getting spark on them?

 

It would sound that way as when you pull either 1 or 6 it stalls. However i would be very suprise if it was running on 2 cylinders. I don't think a v6 will run on 2 cylinders. I may be wrong. Even if it was running on 2 it would sound bloody awfu and would surely be obviousl

Years ago when I was playing with the data scan I found that the car would be stall on 3, yeah Ill have to manually check the others for spark, but it was originally cylinder 1 which had no spark but it started to come to life so I plugged back in

If cylinders don't make a difference when you turn them off they arnt working, your looking for a noticeable drop in revs and usually a change in note. Go through diagnostics for each cylinder, check plug gap/condition, ohm injector, clean the connections and check you are getting spark and fuel at each cylinder. I take it ignition timing is correct and that you have cleaned and secured the CAS at ptu connections?

Have you checked the CAS position for timing?

Still at it, lol

I'm down 3 cylinders 3, 4, and 6.

I have replaced the injectors but due to how they are wired its not those.

I have swapped coil packs from working cylinders, not the cause.

I have cleaned the terminals on an injector (3) and I have been trying to get a ohm reading from my multimeter but its not an auto type and has ranges - 200 2k 20 200k 2m 20m 200m - I put it on 20 but nothing appeared to happed, can someone advise?

I'm working on cylinder 3 first as its easiest to get at :)

 

Timing issue - Lightweight pully with no marks on

I got a reading of datascan saying the timing was at 16 (warned up) was at 35 when first started.

 

CAS is a tiny bit to anti-clockwise (bolt more to the right) but hasn't been altered, I have replaced the timing belt and every mark was aligned perfectly.

Edited August 13, 201411 yr by paulbrem

Injector impedance should be around 12 Ohm

Tested a few injectors today and cleaned and I am getting the correct ohms on the few I've checked, also the screw driver ear test and every one is ticking (pulsing?)

Can someone please explain how to test for spark, my understanding is to take the coilpack out attach spark plug to coil pack and rest against plenum, my plenium has been painted so should I get jump leads to earth and other end on spark plug threads?

If I wish to test for spark manually I have seen that I could remove cas and turn by hand, how do you do this? I assume you plug it back in and turn the part that's just been taken off?

Right guys, I'm at a complete loss now and I have had a few days off due to the petrol smell giving me banging headaches. :(

I have taken the cas off turned over by hand and tested for spark on some working cylinders and some duff cylinders and I cant see I spark on any?? The ignition is in the on position.

I really don't know what to try next.

firing on 3

Coilpacks swapped over no different.

All injectors pulse with ear/screwdriver test and I have Ohm tested some cylinders both working and not working cylinders and are all fine.

Unable to see a spark on some known good and bad cylinders by spinning cas.

Battery Good, earth good.

The spark plugs are brand new

The Cylinders that were firing have fouled plugs.

Let's take a quick step back and overview.

 

The fouling is fuel fouling yes?

The injectors all tested within tolerance and are injecting fuel, is that a certainty? Have you tested the power supply out the injector connector?

Each plug is being supplied with power and conversely a spark? (It's probably not the safe way to do it but when I had a similar issue I did indeed connect the plug loose and earth it to the plenum by resting it on it, get an assistant to spot the spark. There should be no doubt or mistake if it's working. Don't blame me if to break anything or injure yourself though it's simply what I did rightly or wrongly)

Once we have decided that we have one or both then it's down to way this happens, a dead CAS or ptu refusing to allow it to happen properly.

If there is spark and fuel and the timing is correct then lastly we need compression. I doubt it's that though.

As a side note have you made sure the ecu temp sensor is clean and have you tried running it with the maf disconnected on a freshly reset ecu? Both those can cause stupidly confusing side effects, Infact that is what was wrong with mine. The maf was dead.

The CAS is for injector pulses, not spark, thats controlled through the PTU, have you checked your ECU? I had an injector down and changed it, checked everything, then found a couple of pins at the injector side of the ecu burnt out on the board, i made a short pigtail with wire to re bridge the contact for that injector and now working.

I've been trying to do this Groover but it never worked on mine

 

I have got another ecu to try if need be

 

Z32Bolt

The plug is sooty on the cylinder that's running (rich) and clear (but not clean) on the none firing cylinder.

I'm going to recheck some more connectors later on and I have tried it with MAF plugged in, I purposely got the car running on datascan to see if all the sensors are reading and they are - temp, O2 etc.

I have this guide I found

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1106815/Is-this-CODE-21-WRITE-UP-tech-article-worthy-IMG-help-plz.html

and I'm up to testing the PTU side of things I'm going to clean the earths on the PTU again and maybe sand to bare plenum to get a better contact.

I've not got a code 21 fault mine come back as 55 no faults when I ran on datascan.

Still at it, lol

I'm down 3 cylinders 3, 4, and 6.

I have replaced the injectors but due to how they are wired its not those.

I have swapped coil packs from working cylinders, not the cause.

I have cleaned the terminals on an injector (3) and I have been trying to get a ohm reading from my multimeter but its not an auto type and has ranges - 200 2k 20 200k 2m 20m 200m - I put it on 20 but nothing appeared to happed, can someone advise?

I'm working on cylinder 3 first as its easiest to get at :)

 

Timing issue - Lightweight pully with no marks on

I got a reading of datascan saying the timing was at 16 (warned up) was at 35 when first started.

 

CAS is a tiny bit to anti-clockwise (bolt more to the right) but hasn't been altered, I have replaced the timing belt and every mark was aligned perfectly.

 

Once you do get her running well on all 6 cylinders, I would strongly advise finding a way of physically checking the timing by way of a strobe.

Data Scan will tell you what the ecu is seeing reference engine temp' etc' and making the calculations accordingly, it does not mean that your timing is necessarily correct though. You will need to use a strobe to check it when the engine is at normal running temperature.

Make sure the blue ECU plug is seated properly, and that there are no badly bent, potentially broken wires on the back of it.

Well had a double check of everything, cleaned and sanded down earths in the bay and changed the ECU, now it won't start at all, still turns over though. The PTU is mad hot after only a few times trying to turn over. Going try another one....

Well its now on 6 (I'm almost certain lol). The not starting at all was due to replacing the ecu, will have to look into that as it's got a mines chip in and wanted to use it, it wasn't priming the fuel pump.

The culprit for not running on 6 was the PTU picked one up last week, tried it tonight and it started up in tenths of a second :).

It's well rough though, rich and making a well weird sound when the revs are dropping off only at the right side though (separate thread with video inbound soon :D). I'm going to get my boost controller wired in because my plugs for the solenoids weren't attached, and Ill take it from there. Heaters working too.

 

Thanks for all the input, much appreciated :winkiss: