Hi guys when I picked my car up from the paint shop it was nice and sunny and nice clear roads so I gave it some stick through the lanes...

 

1st time I've really pushed it with meister r coilovers, and I wasn't very impressed lol...

 

there nearly on the softest settings and they keep trying to kill me.

 

over bumpy roads its like the rear wheels bounce off the floor the wheels then spin up in the air to god knows what speeds and when it lands its a bit crazy lol...

 

I've also noticed when I pull on my drive it has a big bump in the middle and to not scrape I have to go over it at an angle and often 1 wheel comes off the floor and it wheel sins its like the suspension wont let the wheel hang and drop down...and I guess this is what its doing at quite high speeds in the country lanes which are bumpy near where I live.

 

Before I fitted coilovers I bought new stock shocks and had stock springs, and it would go through these lanes very quick and be very comfortable,

Now its horrible very hard and bumpy and has said slower and more dangerous through the corners,

Only place its half ok now is the motorway but even then we have a new bridge and where they have joined it to the road its a very little bump and it nearly throws me out through the targas lol...

You need to set them up !

 

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Hi Terry, have you adjusted the spring platform since you got them, never had that problem when I had them. Sounds like you may need to soften them up.

That sounds a bit mental only prob i ever had anything like this is when my hicas went funny and the back end was like a nodding dog lol try setting them to medium height and medium stiffness ish and may sound silly but have you had your wheels tracked recently.

that could be it as not sure if its the same for meister r coilovers but my bc's came from factory set up for track use very hard.

No not touched the springs but I have softened them with the tops...

How hard did u push the car paul,

I mean mine isn't that powerful probably about 380bhp and has na rear end no hicas but I did push it has far has it would go without it spinning but it would definitely have been quicker in the lanes with the new stock suspension.

 

Theres a private road which is quite bumpy near me and has the car hits the bumps its constantly trying to snap left and right and thats in 3rd at over 70 lol...ive had zeds for 10 yrs and I know how they drive and how to drive them but this is twitchy its not the power either it only looses the traction like this over bumps...

 

I used the tracking gear at work which is the older hang on the wheel laser system and its all straight on there but its no hunter system so I expect it not to be perfect...

my tyres are cheaper budgets but there what was on it before I pulled the car apart they came on a set of stock wheels refurbished in black and were and new and they still are like new probably not done 2000miles,

Edited August 9, 201411 yr by Terry

No Idea lol I guess easiest thing to do would be to swap it all back to stock shocks and springs and see if this sorts it if it does then its somethin to do with coil overs I remember when i had mine put on they changed evrything toe camber and castor was way out and i had the full hunter job and they still couldnt get everything to sit right do you have all adjustable arms etc to get everything perfect.

Hi Terry, my other car was an auto so I never pushed it as hard as your describing, but I did give it some beans and never felt that the car was unsafe.

What wheels and tyres are you using ?

 

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What preload settings do you have on the springs?

Stock wheels and cheap tyres but they were on the car with the last shocks,

 

I think its so stiff it wont absorb the bumps it bounces over them, once its all together and I will get it tracked properly it will probably be ok,

Maybe im just getting old and like comfortable, and not thrown out the seat...

 

I dont have stock anymore to put them back...

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

What preload settings do you have on the springs?

 

I think they must be how they are set I haven't touched them how would I tell or set them...

You need to decompress the spring a bit .....

 

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The springs themselves will have the preload figure printed on them. Should be around 200 or 220 depending on front or rear. This number denotes a measurement in mm from the top to the bottom of the spring platform. If these are uneven you could have issues. It's always a good idea to have the car properly setup to get the best out of this sort of mod, but it can be expensive.

I also have the meister coilovers and I can honestly say that in the softest setting, it is softer than the kyb/lowering spring combo they replaced.

Ok I'll look on the springs and see if they have been adjusted, can I undo the spring collars and just lock them up when they just touch the springs so there not loose.

You should set the figure on the spring as the maximum preload. Decrease the figure if you need more height from the coilover.

I would get them set up professionally if I were you

 

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Just a thought Are they Meiester R with an adjuster on the top ?

 

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Terry if you have not adjusted them then they are as they left the factory, just back them off to zero and come up a couple of clicks on each of them and see what that's like.

Terry if you have not adjusted them then they are as they left the factory, just back them off to zero and come up a couple of clicks on each of them and see what that's like.

 

I don't think the preloads are set from the factory.

Hope this helps Terry

 

See Section 5 comes with 2mm preload

 

INSTALLATION

PREPARATION

•

Before jacking the vehicle, measure the distance from the centre of the wheel to the

top underside of the wheel arch.

•

Write these measurements down as a reference point for height adjustment

after fitting the coilovers. It is important to adjust the height evenly to maintain safe

handling characteristics.

•

The vehicle must be on a hard level surface to be jacked safely.

•

Use a trolley type floor jack (not a scissor jack) and support the car with axle

stands. Do not attempt to fit suspension using only a jack, as the car will not be suf

-

ficiently stable. Serious injury or death may result from improper preparation.

•

It is recommended to install the front pair first and then the rear pair

, by doing so the

entire car does not need to be supported by axle stands.

•

Ensure that the axle stands are located in a suitable location as specified by the

vehicle’s owner’s manual.

1. Remove wheels

2. Remove original coil/spring assembly (do not undo the top nut on the original shock

absorber, as the spring may be under tension).

3. Insert the new Coilovers and loosely bolt the top mount into place before fitting the

base. It may be necessary to use a floor jack to raise the hub when fitting the base.

Optional: Coat all contact surfaces between the damper body and adjustment

brackets with white lithium grease to prevent corrosion build up.

4. Do not fully tighten the top mount until car is on the ground, as premature tightening

can damage the bolt thread.

5. When the top mount and base have been secured and tightened to the vehicle

manufacturer’s specifications, tighten the spring base so that the spring cannot move

up or down. The spring comes with 2mm pre-tension from the factory (some models

have more). Check pre-tension before installation and ensure they are evenly

pre-tensioned per axle. More spring tension may be require after fitting.

6. After setting the height (refer to next section) tighten the nuts on the top mount

according to the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications. A four wheel alignment will be

required once the height has been se