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Clutch bleeding problems

I can't get my clutch to bleed and it's really grinding me down... Getting to the cov meet is looking less and less likely now :(

 

I can get it bled up with no air coming out and it'll go into every gear, then when I start the car the pressure has gone and can't select any gears.

 

Am I doing something wrong or is there a way of finding what might be letting in air? How is starting the car affecting it?

Featured Replies

  • Author
sounds more like a seal has gone mate,

 

That's what I'm thinking Neil I'm just not sure how to narrow it down

Did you follow the procedure:

 

Pump quickly 1,2,3,4 pumps, hold down on last pump - open bleed valve (~half turn), close *then* release pedal. Repeat again and again...

 

When you have got the air out from the slave repeat the above for the bleed valve by the inner wing.

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/cl/008.gif

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author

Well bit of an update, but not a good one...

 

Bled the clutch again with a clued up mate rather than the mrs lol, all the air was gone and could select gears, but as soon as the car is started the clutch pedal goes all baggy for the first half of travel and can't select gears unless you really ram it in. Managed to drive up and down the road so it does move but why is it such a difference when the car is started?

 

Haven't bothered with the clutch booster tank behind the wing, just Tee'd off the hose from the brake servo to plenum which I assume is ok. I swapped the master cylinder for another one I had and also changed the slave over as it was a bit wet behind the rubber boot, but still the same problem. The only pipe a hard pipe from the master cylinder down to the bracket on the frame, then a new flexi down to the slave, this was only because I was misled on a hose on eBay so made it work with what I had.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'd love to take it to the Coventry meet but really is looking less and less likely.

  • Author
You tee'd it with one way valve ?

 

I haven't done, should I?

 

I have an update and I think I've cracked it this time.... Went round clutching at straws and making sure everything was super-tight, managed to get a couple more turns on the master cylinder nuts and it's now driving and selecting gears. Taking it into work tomorrow ready for an mot late afternoon, fingers crossed it all goes well!

You do need a one way valve

 

Are you talking about the one way valve connected in the vacuum pipework for the clutch booster?

That wouldn't have any effect on him not being able to bleed the hydraulics properly would it.

If the one way valve isn't fitted you would 'just' find the clutch pedal push back at you when the car is boosting I think, making gear changes not so smooth.

  • Author

It is an NA Dave... But it's now got a TT manual box and associated parts fitted.

if you still have problems. i have a N/a clutch master cylinder you could have as you wont have varying pressures anymore by ditching the booster. get a stronger left leg too you wimp ;)

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