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Hi all

 

As many of you are aware I have been fitting (truing to fit) my new brembo kit evo 8 ones.

 

Thanks to dan and a few others yesterday I managed to get off my crappy stiff bolts. Dans trick with a blow torch and mould grips for a rounded seized nut come off in seconds.

 

<a href=20140701_085046_zpsil8g0xob.jpg' alt='20

 

Now I have bled the brakes with a one man bleeder kit that supposedly stops air going into the system. I waited until the clear tube on the kit was free of any air bubbles before tightening up the bleed screws I also worked from drivers side inner to outer then same on passenger side.

 

With everything done up and resevoir cap back on I started the engine. Push the brake pedal which went down with little force . Allowed it to rise back up and did the same expecting it to be firmer but it wasnt. I can push the pedal all the way to the floor with a little extra force. What have I done wrong. Other than doing it myself.?

 

Should the engine be running when bleeding or will it not make a difference?

 

I bled with the key turned iito position 2 for the dash lights to be on.

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Have you bled the abs unit in the boot on the drivers side? Do the brembos have multiple bleed nipples? I don't think the engine should be on. I would let it stand bleed it again, drive it a short way and then bleed it in case there is a requirement to circulate fluid through the abs unit which must have valves and stuff in it.

 

New brakes can feel soft till they bed in.

If the pedal goes to the floor with no effortthen you have not bled them properly.

 

It's always a good idea to have two people bleeding brakes. One in the car on the brake pedal the other at the nipple.

 

As said though new brakes do feel spongy to begin with.

i had the same prob with my brembos

have they got 2 nipples 1on the outer and 1 on the inner plus you have to bleed the abs unit in the boot but only for the front brake circuit

as for the nipples bleed the inner first then the outer one i was ages before i found that out it worked for me but u have tobleed them manually i.e 2 people

  • Author

I got a friend round to do it the proper way and it feels similar but better now still spongy but the pedal doesnt go to the floor. It goes solid about 1 and half inch before the floor. I think its just because my nissan ones were different. But im going to take it for a light drive to test them

if it doesnt go to the floor and doesnt leak its holding pressure, if you start the car then the pedal should go straight to the floor.

Does abs only work on the front? Didn't know that. I am crap at bleeding brakes I always do it on 3 occasions, bleed, drive, stand, bleed... before it is to my standard of rock solid.

 

And doing that beds the brakes in which firms the pedal in itself.

This thread covers Brembo bleeding process (and calipers with inner/outer bleed nipples):

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?170794-brake-bleed&highlight=brembo

 

The ABS on our cars is F&R (front indepently controlled, rears together).

 

Also, your new blue brake line does not appear to have the fixings to stop it moving about.

 

brake22.jpg

 

Please don't take you car for a test drive until you have fully bled the brakes.

Edited by AndrewG

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author

Hi andrew it doesnt have any on the hose but I have secured the lines with cable ties and the same place the standard hose went. I test drove it and they stop me fine but I will take it to get done properly. Thanks for the help guys.

Also I had a problem once make sure calipers are on the right side...

The bleed nipple has to be at the top of the caliper to let air out...

I done this with the stock calipers on the zed and tried everything to bleed them then realised I had calipers around the wrong way so nipples were at the bottom...

Swapped round and they worked perfectly lol...

Mmmm after bleeding what is effectively the end of the brake line circuit no fresh air should have been introduced to the abs unit unless the resevoir was allowed to drop too low when bleeding. However one thing always comes to mind when this happens when changing calipers or just pads and its how the bleeding was done at the brake pedal.

 

Basically the master cylinder has a piston with a rubber seal on and this goes down the cylinder as the pedal is pressed, the fluid pressure builds up in front of the piston and this is transferred down the brake line to act on the caliper pistons. However the rubber wears and the cylinder becomes polished where the piston travel is in normal use, however if when bleeding the brakes, the pedal is completely depressed a the piston and seal goes further down the cylinder and this can be enough to pop the seal, I always would advise with an older master cylinder to never to fully depress the brake pedal when bleeding for this very reason. If there is really no air left in the system then its most likely the master cylinder seals have been compromised when bleeding.

 

Note this does not apply to clutch pedal bleeding

 

Jeff TT

But still check the bleed nipple is at the top I had what seemed like no air leaving the system but the pedal was soft.

Because if u think about it, if the bleed nipple is lower down the caliper and the air is at the top of caliper where the bleed nipple should be....then the air will be trapped in the system.

Edited by Terry

Hi all

 

As many of you are aware I have been fitting (truing to fit) my new brembo kit evo 8 ones.

 

Thanks to dan and a few others yesterday I managed to get off my crappy stiff bolts. Dans trick with a blow torch and mould grips for a rounded seized nut come off in seconds.

 

<a href=20140701_085046_zpsil8g0xob.jpg' alt='20

 

Now I have bled the brakes with a one man bleeder kit that supposedly stops air going into the system. I waited until the clear tube on the kit was free of any air bubbles before tightening up the bleed screws I also worked from drivers side inner to outer then same on passenger side.

 

With everything done up and resevoir cap back on I started the engine. Push the brake pedal which went down with little force . Allowed it to rise back up and did the same expecting it to be firmer but it wasnt. I can push the pedal all the way to the floor with a little extra force. What have I done wrong. Other than doing it myself.?

 

Should the engine be running when bleeding or will it not make a difference?

 

I bled with the key turned iito position 2 for the dash lights to be on.

 

I had this issue turns out it was the brake booster/master cylinder flexing start the engine and get some one to press the brake pedal now you watch the brake booster/master cylinder flex you will be shocked just how much it does. that's why I ended up with a brake master cylinder brace. there is a pic of it in the other thread up now. the issue you have now is what I had and I ended up with a brace its makes the pedal feel rock solid you don't relise just how well thay work till you have drive with a brace.

Had a soft brake pedal a while back, and this especially when it was warm / hot under the bonnet. Could not see any visible leaks and did not loose any fluid. I changed fluid, and do not now how many times I bleed the system, and nothing helped. I then changed the seals in the BMC, and that sorted the problem. Pedal got nice and firm again.

What lenght are the brake lines doing a evo 8 brake swap myself and iam getting brakelines made up

just wondering what size in lenght il need

What lenght are the brake lines doing a evo 8 brake swap myself and iam getting brakelines made up

just wondering what size in lenght il need

 

The Technafit lines I sold recently measured 59.5cm for the fronts and 21cm for the rears (total lengths

including the fittings).

 

P1050917s.jpg

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • 11 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

hi mate, only just seen your post while re reading some old posts of mine.

 

I got Zedworld to re bleed the brakes again later that same week and there were still a few bubbles to get out, but other than that pedal was roughly the same (travel wise), but brakes work perfect. I think it was more psycological due to the change of brakes, with regards to the pedal not feeling right.

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