Gents, I've done a few searches but cant quite get the right answer so here goes,

 

Now as we know the underneath of our zeds rot like nothing else, so a couple of years ago I cleaned under the zed, repaired all the rust and coated all the underside with a product called aquasteel that promised to keep rust away

 

http://www.aquasteel.co.uk/

 

also used stonechip on everything including the subframe and then waxoil.

 

now the zed has been stored in the garage for two years and not seen any rain, it had an mot lastweek and I was surprised to see that all the underside rear subframe and rear area was all a nice rust colour, the guy in the mot station said it was condensation in your garage as I had a leaking roof.

 

question is... is this aquasteel anygood if this is the affect after condensation? ive also seen a product called por15

 

http://www.por15.com/

 

would I be better using this with stonechip and underseal?

 

I really don't want the underside to rust again so thought what would be best to use?

I was gonna wax oil mine underneath but mine has no rust what soever. But would also be interested in other options. Mine still has all 5 he original jap stone chip protection on the underside

Mine is the uk spec and had rotted through all the sills, new sills fitted ten years ago but again a couple of years ago the rust came through,

now I want to get this sorted so be intrested to hear what others may have used.

i've used the por15 product, it is very good but use the correct surface prep first can't remember what it's called but you spray the product on keep it wet for a while whilst it dissolves the rust and leaves a zinc coating over the rusty area then use the por 15 paint over the top, did some bits on my white zed with it 10years ago and no signs of rust coming back yet, got a few areas to do on the black zed inc sub frames etc

Bilt Hamber

3M Cavity wax and underbody protection

Dinitrol wax

Waxoyl

 

Google them all. I have used them all over the years. Results go from, excellent- 3M & Bilt Hamber(both easy to apply)

to OK- Waxoyl.(messiest and needs heating up) They all do chassis protection products too.

 

Also google "epoxy mastic" great chassis paint

Second vote for POR 15. Excellent stuff.

POR 15 get my vote as well

I used rust bullet yet to see how it fairs, also top coated it with rustoleum combi. That stuff is thick

 

I really wouldn't be glad your under seal is standard zairs. Mine was and it was a nightmare to get off being so thick! But I found surface rust under it so I wouldn't be overjoyed heh.

I used rust bullet yet to see how it fairs, also top coated it with rustoleum combi. That stuff is thick

 

I really wouldn't be glad your under seal is standard zairs. Mine was and it was a nightmare to get off being so thick! But I found surface rust under it so I wouldn't be overjoyed heh.

 

was yours a uk car, mine is jap and looks very thin

Hi All, Hope you can help me.

I recently brought a 98 Jap import with no rust and I wanna keep it this way. I'm about to send my new ZX in to have the underneath rust proofed and the sills, doors, wheel arches and usual water/rust spots treated before the winter kicks in with a vengeance.

Now, I'm in a quandary. From the above the I feel the best protection is for the POR 15 Marine Clean followed by POR 15 Prep and Ready followed by POR 15 Black Rust protection paint, just for the chassis. For sealing the sills, door bottoms and wheel arches etc, I guess Waxoyl injected into these areas will be better suited.

Can anyone advise if I am right?

My mate at the garage swears by waxoyl for the sills/doors/arches and highly recommends 3M for underneath, after a good clean and surface rust removal.

So before I plough in and spend dosh on POR15 what's your views?

TIA chaps.

Cheers ;-)

Dinitrol is superior to Waxoil, however Waxoil is ok.

 

You're best doing it in a hot environment if you're going to be injecting it into the cavities to allow it to flow, especially between the skins in the inner and outer arches.

 

I don't drive mine in the winter or the wet.

Dinitrol is superior to Waxoil, however Waxoil is ok.

 

You're best doing it in a hot environment if you're going to be injecting it into the cavities to allow it to flow, especially between the skins in the inner and outer arches.

 

I don't drive mine in the winter or the wet.

 

Thanks man, me too, the car wont be out if its raining or wet but my bloody garage is too narrow to get the car in so its under a breathable, lined, secured cover whilst I sort the cost out to widen me garage ha ha! Hence i'm desperate to get the underneath protected ASAP and also what is good for protecting the alloy wheels as these are just peeking out from the cover and I want to keep these as mint as possible?

My mate has large and airy garage and space heaters so I will advise him he needs to crank it up when he does the job. Thanks Si.

Agree with above, I believe that Dinitrol has the ability to seep/creep into the seams also.

Very important.

Worth reading up on Bilt Hamber also, I did all my new replacement sills etc' with it.

As said above, a nice warm environment will help with the flow.

 

Here is a link to my exploits if it is of any interest.. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/thanks-everyone.15465/

Bit of a read mind.

dinitrol gets my vote you can use it in cavities and on the underside, use ML first this does cavities and a base coat over the underside, it goes on like water so flows in-between panel gaps etc, then coat the outside with 4941, this is a thicker wax for the outside, gives a stone chip type finish and dries to a semi hard wax, did mine earlier this year and so far no issues from stone chips etc

Dinitrol it is then. Thanks for the advice, appreciated :-)

The bilt hamber stuff is great I used this.

The biggest issue is on the seams, with the factory underseal as soon as a bit of water gets in it will creep along all the seams and be kept it by the underseal.

 

If you are going to use Por15 etc then really it all needs to go back to metal. This will be a big expensive job and if your car is still fresh from Japan shouldn't be needed. Just get as much wax in as you can. You will need to strip out the carpet to do this properly.

 

I used epoxy mastic for the underside of mine, it's truly tough and resistant to almost anything. It's oil rig paint basically.

As long as it's standing on pavement or concrete rust shouldn't be an issue, if it's standing on grass or similar then your screwed.

So I wouldn't bother too much if your just keeping it under covers, if your driving it during the winter however then I'd certainly look into some underbody treatment

Don't forget guys when your applying these products you must do so to clean dry metal. Painting over existing surface rust will only allow it to sit there and fester. Equally if you go doing it on a wet cold day like the current weather you will seal that wet air in.

Don't forget guys when your applying these products you must do so to clean dry metal. Painting over existing surface rust will only allow it to sit there and fester. Equally if you go doing it on a wet cold day like the current weather you will seal that wet air in.

 

Any thoughts on best practice for reapplication? I might get it done by a local garage in the coming weeks. Car was really well treated with underseal and waxoyl or similar in Japan but the underseal has started to crack in places. No rust yet!

As long as it's standing on pavement or concrete rust shouldn't be an issue, if it's standing on grass or similar then your screwed.

So I wouldn't bother too much if your just keeping it under covers, if your driving it during the winter however then I'd certainly look into some underbody treatment

 

I disagree with that to an extent. A wet car will always be a source for condensation on the inner panels, wheel arches especially. Keeping the arches clear and clean will certainly help, but you'll get condensation on the inside of the inner arch which will eventually rot the spot welds.

Once again, all great advice and tips. Cheers All :-)

I used Dinitrol too, worked very well. I purchased a rustproofing kit for a "large" car from them for around £120 but needed a couple of extra tins of underbody wax. The kit comes with a 60cm wand with a 360 degree nozzle which can be used to access all sections of the chassis rails with both rust converter (if required) and the cavity wax. Make sure you're prepared for spillage as the cavity wax oozes out of every orifice and between the pinch welds dripping onto the floor! Your priority should be to protect the rear sill section cavities and the rear inner arches down to the lower rear corner where the rear bumper mounts.

 

https://dinitrol.co.uk/default.aspx

 

Equally, I don't think you can't go wrong with any bilt hamber product.

I have to do this to my Zed this winter so this info is good! :thumbup1:

I've got a "large" dinitrol kit waiting to go on mine too. :)

I did mine a few years ago with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50. It comes in an aerosol with a flexible lance. It's really easy to use and it oozes out of all of the seams, which is ideal. Just make sure you protect your drive!

I have just been out under my car today having fun with Waxoyl.

 

Stripped off all the plastic at the front off the car and also the engine undertray, then covered everything in a nice thick coat, and hard to reach areas I will use the sprayable stuff rather than the brushable.

 

I actually prefer it to Dinitrol, I did an experiment a few years back on another car I owned.

 

Covered half in Dinitrol and half in Waxoyl, after a bad winter the Dinitrol side looked rusty again but the Waxoyl side was fine.

 

As well as that, there is a car I scrapped and nearly 10 years later I seen it still at the scrap yard, the parts I had used Waxoyl on where still in great nick, the rest of the car was rusting away.

 

It does neat heated, and it messy, but works for me.