I need help please guys, especially from you xtd owners.

 

Mark has fitted my 460ftlbs car with an xtd clutch and flywheel and has called me to say it slips in 4th and 5th. Now Phutumsh has 500 plus horse power and his doesn't slip.

 

Will it bed in is my hopeful question, if so, how should it be bedded in. A bit worried, I don't think its a fault with the part just either it cant hold the power, or isn't run in.

 

Thanks in advance guys.

Now Phutumsch has 500 plus horse power and his doesn't slip.

 

How do you know !!!!

 

Your correct though never had a problem with mine, must ask is it the stage 3 ?

You told someone else it worked fine on another thread :)

 

Ill check...

hmm cheap clutch been round the mill with uprated clutches in performance cars over the years and had lots of issues in a Porsche I had with uprated clutches you get what you pay for I found out the this the hard way and was very expensive in the end

Yes stage 3. How did you bed yours in?

I normally agree with you get what you pay for but a lot of people have these and they work??? Obviously my last map had a slippy clutch and it actually makes 600 horsepower which is frying this one :lol:

 

Power only limited by clutch slip.

mite need adjustment at the pedal. as in the pedal isn't releasing it all the way I had that issue also on a car once the pedal came up the clutch bit ok but the pedal was just no coming up enuf only needed a tiny bit more and the slip stoped I would look into that first

Thanks Dan, I'll try to mention that without insulting Mark I am sure he knows what he is doing.

 

Any other thoughts from people on bedding in procedures?

its worth a look as its a easy fix

Driftworks forums with old posts suggest 200 miles of bedding in. Do you think boosting it about straight away is gonna knack it, or will it just not bite well no matter what you do for 200 miles?

Driftworks forums with old posts suggest 200 miles of bedding in. Do you think boosting it about straight away is gonna knack it, or will it just not bite well no matter what you do for 200 miles?

 

i should think iff its slipping then its going to glaze before it beds in which cant be good.

I once had a job as a OE clutch designer and designed landrover clutches amongst others. Without going to technical, the clamp force is shaped like a bell. Starts low, increases and then decreases to the point that it slips and you need a new clutch. A new clutch is designed with a balance between clamp force and clutch life. If you get it wrong, you'll not be able to drive a new car up the ramp of the transporter. Aftermarket clutches are usually copies or designed with less OEM support so things such as tolerances may be unknown and assumed.

 

What I'm getting at is the more it slips, the more it will wear and therefor increasing the clamp force untill it stops slipping.

 

Does this make sense or shal I draw some pictures?

Edited May 23, 201411 yr by zed-racer

I think it does, as it slips it is running right allong the "lifespan of clutch" axis to the bit where it works properly. Then eventually it will wear out. So it is a self solving problem.

Yes, assuming its not something elce.... I'd suggest just to keep using it and if it does not get any better, then look into what elce is could be. I'll try to dig out some old technical drawings with the graph that shows how a new clutch clamp force is just a bit more than a worn one.

Thanks all Ill report back when I know more :)

Doesn't the one phutumsch have state it takes 575lbft? As I have he same one.

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/380900005641?cmd=VIDESC&gxo=true

 

 

Ah really? That's the stage 4 I posted above (I think it is as my phone is shit)

Edited May 22, 201411 yr by Hollings

So does mine, but it can't at the minute. Ill report back in a while.

Ah, hope you get it sorted soon as I'm looking forward to seeing this at totb!

This may help with understanding my earlier comments:

 

 

so as the clutch wears, the force increases and then comes back down. This is all due to the unique characteristics of the diaphragm spring.

It's worth checking the bell housing isn't full of oil, the rear main seal can cause the clutch to get oily and slip.

Have you replaced the Flywheel?

Pretty sure it comes with the fly as well as a package

Wow, proper engineering notes ther thank you.

 

Yeah it came with a 6kg flywheel.

The install was done properly and the rear crank seal was replaced it was all cleaned up. Me and mark have discussed the options and were gona let it bed in, it simply seemed unable to cope with the torque it didn't smell oily or anything just slipped at peak tq.

Pretty sure it comes with the fly as well as a package

 

A new flywheel makes the chances of my theory more probable...

ok will just update with info here some things that tom/others dont know

 

No oil leaks as thats one of the reasons the gear box has been off ... so all is clean and dry now

the clutch has done around 15>20 miles on town'ish driving then went on to fast road and thats where it slipped

not thou gear change just on power ... to me this is down to clamping force ( weak clutch )

 

Done another 50 miles on it from yesterday till today as per request and still the same

 

and before any one says ... yes it was cleaned and the clutch is not adjusted to much to make it ride*

 

 

Mark

dont these need a 500 mile break in period? my instructions say this for mine when i was fitting it today.