right i have now bought new disc and front pads for her and am going to attemp to do it myself tomorow, any helpful hints dos and donts. i have mycopper ease aswell. cheers

Pretty clear guide here:

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/brakestech.html

dont think i got any shim things do i need to buy or are they best left out? cheers

very easy to change the discs and pads i cleaned and reused the old shims that were in very good nick

Best advice is DONT get copper grease on the friction side of the pads. Also make sure you undo the bleed nipple a little if you have to wind the pistons back in. If you don't you risk popping the seals in the BMC. Apart from that it's easy..

Nice easy job. The only things to be cautious of is;

 

Don't force the pad out by levering off the piston, you will cause damage and create a leak.

Use copper grease on the rear of the pad to sand which the shim.

Clean the runners.

You should in theory open the bleed valve to spread the pistons on a z32 to avoid damage to the BMC, should.

 

Wear gloves, it's a dirty job and it's a dick having filthy hands for the rest of the week that won't go clean.

cheers guys think i ll have a look to see if i have a vice to gently push the pistons close, whitch bleed valve do i open the one on the caliper alittle?

yes the one on the calliper while your doing all this get some braided hoses and a master cylinder brace the brace is the best thing I did the master cylinder flexes like mad start the engine and get some to press on the brake pedal while you stand out side and watch the thing flex

cheers dan got a brace last time home.

do the hoses then with it

I must add but its your call but i left the shims off and let the pistons press directly on the pads...iff you look at the shims they have "witness" marks from only the top half of the pistons so i see it as they have all the clamping force not at a true 90 degree to the pads/piston sides and could or may cause the piston to not come out square causing binding. Ive always done this to my zx calipers with no rattling or adverse effects to the pad operation. I dont want a 10 post shout down from the "but what iff brigade" guys its just something to think about on your brakes;)

iff you look at the shims they have "witness" marks from only the top half of the pistons so i see it as they have all the clamping force not at a true 90 degree to the pads/piston sides

 

If the pads themselves are not true then you will get this.

If the pads themselves are not true then you will get this.

 

Sorry Andrew my post should of been clearer...what i mean is the shims only reach half of the pistons so lets say they are 0.5mm thick then that means the bottom half of the piston not covered by the shim is not reaching the pads by 0.5mm iff you get my drift:wink:

i have somewere about leaving these out but cannot remember were or why?

I haven't got shims in mine either. I had to remove them as they were causing the pads to rub on the disc with the pistons wound in. I'm on Stillon discs and pads that I got from DTA when they were still going (Wish they still were ) so I know that they were the correct upgrade from oem. Haven't had a problem.

 

Bri, all four of the outer shims had the mark you described.