Hi all i have a problem after installing a second hand injector,so i put in the injector on injector 1 tightned everything up turned on the ignition for the fuel pump to kick in ,then tryed to started the car and after 1 second the engine wouldnt turn,first i thought the timing belt jumped a cog so i took out the rad and turned the crank by hand and everything is free,but while trying to turn it first crank seemed very tight and i could hear a hissing coming from one of the injectors.Has anyone any input on what it could be.I have one of the dump valves off would this make any difference.Any advise would be fantastic.Also the car was runinng fine untill i put in the new injector.Thanks lads

Sounds alright but you need the differences between cylinders that's what's important. Is say that sounds ok though.

So i checked the voltage on cylinder 3 and i am getting the same voltage on cylinder 1 injector connector,so i am getting power to the injector but still cylinder 1 isnt firing.Any other suggestions what it might be guys i am totally lost at this stage:no:

It's hardly the ptu, is yours the newer series 2 type? As far as I know this triggers the coilpacks and can be intermittent, just an off chance..

It's hardly the ptu, is yours the newer series 2 type? As far as I know this triggers the coilpacks and can be intermittent, just an off chance..

 

Mine is a 1990 Z32 TT,i am at a total loss on what it might be

Guys would it have anything to do with CAS?Dont have a timing light atm.Will have to get one

the best thing to do is Take the injector back out and check the Seals ... are in correctly or not split ..

and u havent left the older seal in the rail by mistake

the best thing to do is Take the injector back out and check the Seals ... are in correctly or not split ..

and u havent left the older seal in the rail by mistake

 

I have had the injector out and have only the 2 seals on it as the other 2 seals are in the garage.Today the injector flooded cylinder 1 and now it doesnt seem to be working at all.

So we have a spark, we have compression and the injector is being supplied by power and ohming correctly. If it was timing related if expect to see extended issues beyond 1 cylinder.

So we have a spark, we have compression and the injector is being supplied by power and ohming correctly. If it was timing related if expect to see extended issues beyond 1 cylinder.

 

Exactly mate it makes no sence at all to me,Just to make sure i even put small holes in the 2 wires goin into the connector which connects onto the injector and i am getting the same voltage output as cylinder 3.Though it maybe the connector

So have you taken the voltage from the connector itself?

if you know you got a problem now after somthing you done then just reverse what you done and start from there at the begining

So have you taken the voltage from the connector itself?

 

Yea i have got 7 volts

if you know you got a problem now after somthing you done then just reverse what you done and start from there at the begining

Lol i wish i new where to start,i have had this problem since i got the car.6 years ago

Guys could i run two wires from from the battery to the injector to see if it is ticking properly?

Put a long screwdriver on the injector with your engine running put the handle end of the screwdriver on your ear you should hear it clicking...

do that on another see if they sound the same...

should be 12v not 7v so could be your problem,

Ok so i took of the CAS and spun it by hand,the injector seems to be working fine and i checked the voltage again i am getting nearly 11 volts

Apparently you can use a 9v battery to see if it squirts, not tried it myself though.

 

You got 7volts, now 11, Poor connection inside the connect is my bet then. Replace the thing, I bet it's scaley and brittle and horrid.

Mate i just did a ecu check by using this method

I got error codes 11=Crank angle sensor circuit,and 13 engine coolant temp,sensor circuit,13 i think is the temp sensor connector on the hard pipes is broken it pops up and the electric fan starts

Ecu coolant sensor fault is going to cause all sorts of issues.

So to clear the codes will i have to get to the ecu under the carpet.Or what should i do next?

I have had the same problem, it turned out to be the injector! it measured 12 ohms but was stuck open flooding that cyclinder. While i was at it i renewed all the injector/coil pack plugs. i also measured with a fluke the wiring harness to the ecu & the ptu which i measured to be around 950 ohms testing on diode test one way nothing the other.

I have had the same problem, it turned out to be the injector! it measured 12 ohms but was stuck open flooding that cyclinder. While i was at it i renewed all the injector/coil pack plugs. i also measured with a fluke the wiring harness to the ecu & the ptu which i measured to be around 950 ohms testing on diode test one way nothing the other.

 

Oh i will have to change my injector/coil pack plugs also.But i am still not certain i am getting power to cylinder 1 injector(pulse).Could i rig up a light bulb(noid make shift) and connect the two wires into the injector power connector and see if it flashes while the engine is goin?Thanks guys

The signal can only be seen on a scope, this is what i thought until meggered the injector wiring with the ecu disconnected.

Try disconnect the injector pug see if you have any corrosion on the terminals, if corroded renew plug tried wd40/electrical connection cleaner they dont work.

If plug is ok check with still everything disconnected both injector wires for contunity should be 0.01 ohms or there abouts. i was lucky to have a spare ecu so i swapped it out. zed was still the same.

Are you getting a spark from the coil pack? easy to test, remove coil pack insert old spark plug & rest on the plenum a spark should be seen when engine turned over.

Yea mate i have a spark from the coilpak,i did the same this the other day as you said.

Oh i will have to change my injector/coil pack plugs also.But i am still not certain i am getting power to cylinder 1 injector(pulse).Could i rig up a light bulb(noid make shift) and connect the two wires into the injector power connector and see if it flashes while the engine is goin?Thanks guys

 

 

Easiest way to check output from the ecu us to use a ready made noid light kit, one below is around £12, plug in start engine and watch for flashes, if it does not either a broken cable or more likely the output from the ecu.

 

Care is needed when dealing withe injector connectors both cleaning and if cutting off to replace as the power feed is always live even with the ignition off, if you cut across the cable and short the live to the ecu output earth (neutral) chances are the ecu will get damaged.

 

Jeff TT

 

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