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What are your plans with the engine rebuild, are you going high compression, big cams etc or just freshening up the stock engine?

  • Author

Richie K - The rear arches are Night Garage Flares from zshop.ca

 

Eggs - I am currently leaning toward a standard compression engine rebuild right now.

 

Parts List:

 

Custom Wiseco VH45 Pistons 10.2:1 CR

Custom Eagle H-Beam Rods w/ ARP Studs

OEM Head Gasket

ARP Head Studs

Stainless Steel Valves

Titanium Retainers

HD Springs

OEM Spec Camshafts (For now)

Whats your parameters for the tig welding...tungsten size,cup size,gas flow rate,filler rod size ect and what amps are you at too? Very nice welds there:)

  • Author

Eggs - This manifold is for a customer of mine for his VK56DE, I will be making a closed plenum with a LS7 Throttle body on the front of the manifold.

 

Znut - Firstly, thank you! This is the following setup:

 

Tungsten - 1.6MM 2% Lanthanated

Cup Size - #7 (I should've been using my gas lens)

Gas Flow - 7.5 LPM (100% Argon)

Filler Rod - 3.175 MM ER4043 Filler Rod

Amps - 75 (No Pulse Settings)

 

The runner material is 1.59mm (1/16") wall thickness and I designed the intake flange as a socket weld for the runners. It was very nice welding it up.

Eggs - This manifold is for a customer of mine for his VK56DE, I will be making a closed plenum with a LS7 Throttle body on the front of the manifold.

 

Znut - Firstly, thank you! This is the following setup:

 

Tungsten - 1.6MM 2% Lanthanated

Cup Size - #7 (I should've been using my gas lens)

Gas Flow - 7.5 LPM (100% Argon)

Filler Rod - 3.175 MM ER4043 Filler Rod

Amps - 75 (No Pulse Settings)

 

The runner material is 1.59mm (1/16") wall thickness and I designed the intake flange as a socket weld for the runners. It was very nice welding it up.

 

Wow looking at that it looks a lot thicker and thinking the same i was thinking around 160 amps...those gas lenses are great and enable to weld "behind" with a bigger stick out ive found. Keep up the great work:)

  • Author

No, the frequency was set around 60hz so I didn't blow through the runner. that's why the bead is wider. The gas lenses are awesome, yeah great for getting into tight inside corners.

 

The upper flange is "fun" because I'm welding 1/4" plate to the 1/16" runner. Stay tuned for more pictures of this intake build!

  • Author

Got the heads and engine block completely disassembled over the holiday weekend.

 

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Got ARP stud sizes for the main caps.

Ordered the AN fittings for the crank case vent setup.

 

Figured out the best way to remedy the oil starvation issue these engines have getting sideways at high rpms. I'll be plumbing in a 1qt. Accusump to the front of the block where the main oil gallery is located. Any loss of oil pressure and the accusump will flow directly to the crankshaft. My larger capacity rear sump oil pan should also help with the problem as well.

 

Next step is to get this engine cleaned up!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Well I finally got back over to the body shop last night to work on the front bumper of the Z. I was able to fit up the brackets and measure everything up for the front splitter (or as I like to call it... my bumper shelf) I'll be drilling everything out tonight to fit the splitter to the mounting brackets. Once this is installed we can do the final bumper fitment and get the Z in paint! So very excited for that day to come. Here are some pictures.

 

The splitter is rigid enough to support the front bumper and will allow me to mount the oil cooler and other accessories to it. It's pretty light too considering the size and thickness of the aluminum.

 

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  • Author

Spent some time cleaning up the cylinder heads. Here's a good before and after picture.

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I am sending the camshafts out to get reground this week and then it's off to the machine shop for assembly!

Looking good, what's the timeframe for getting the engine rebuilt?

 

In your post with the splitter, I'm struggling to see what the last pic is? Going under the front of the car as an engine tray?

  • Author

Time frame is probably about 2 months. I am getting the block cleaned and checked out. Then I need to order the custom pistons. Probably a 6-8 week lead time.

 

The last picture is looking in the bumper through the turn signal location. Looking towards the engine, the support brackets are replacing where the front OEM tow hooks are located.

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Big shout out to my body shop wizard Greg Howard for getting the chassis painted over the holiday weekend! These pictures were taken right after the clear was sprayed. It still needs to be wet sanded and buffed. Pictures do not do the paint justice, it is absolutely insane in person! Can't wait to start putting it together!

 

Ford "Gotta Have It Green" Metallic Pearl Tri-stage

 

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A great paint finish even before colour sand and buff, going to look stunning :thumbup:

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

The tail lights have been all cleaned up and painted, and the entire car has been buffed. The front bumper is just about ready to be painted, then time for her to come home! So ready to get to work on something other than the body!

 

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Got to say that the lights and colour have grown on me, wasn't a fan when you first posted :thumbup:

  • Author

Thanks Eggs! This is what I have envisioned from the start of the build, and everything from here on out will just continue to pull the car together. Just wait until it's all finished and doesn't look like a monster truck!

I've realised what it is I like... I love the WinFactory spoiler but think it looks shite with stock lights as it removes the brake light strip, completely ruins the lines. The R32 lights work so much better with it.

 

What do you have planned in terms of tint on the glass? What colour is the stock tint out there?

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