I got underneath the car to do some sealing and rust preventative and managed to make 2 holes using the wire brush and a paintbrush covered in underseal.....

Can anyone advise me where to source section of panel I need ?

I want to cut out section and replace.......

I am trying to track down anyone I know who can weld.....

I am going to clean area up later with drill and wire brush to see how far the rot has crept......

Is this sill section or floorpan?

any idea of thickness of metal to use to make replacement section if I can't get replacement?

 

I even thought about aluminium mesh and JB weld for about half an hour......( I was a bit depressed when finding this so please forgive me!)......lol

 

I am getting more and more upset finding how many things need doing now.......

Edited August 27, 201312 yr by veilside01702

very nice job on the panel, but if you want really good lines you should buy a shrinker/stretcher.

I would do but running out of funds.....lol

I started by bending by hand round the former I made and then went to the shot filled hammer to help a bit.....

I decided to try as few a cuts as possible and managed to get away with 2.... once I have tacked the cuts together at the ends I am going to try to shape it a bit better....lol

Too late tonight and neighbours have young children in bed.....lol

My 2 sleep through anything....

Thanks for the advice again ruishy1.......

Well made the closing piece for the inner sill and tried to replicate redwine300's panel from his repair..... The pictures helped me loads.....

I have cleaned the piece up with degreaser and sprayed with Upol weld 2 high zinc primer......

It's ok but may try to get a better flange on the hole as it still shows the tooling a bit.....

The panel looks good mate, taking your time i see which is the best way, if you rush it you will always regret it.

do you have a compressor mate ?

for welding panels together ive got a spare air powered joggler, mates the panels together and when you weld there is alot less chance of blowing holes, you can have it for 30 quid delivered. ( its about 69 delivered brand BNIB which this one is)

Impressive work so far mate. (Brings back memories.)

One thing I did find about weld through primer was, that despite the fact that it is designed to a degree to cope with welding, I still found that it effected the weld itself.

I found that I had much better results by scraping away the paint at the points of weld so as to have a good clean weld area.

 

Hopefully you have not yet cut away any of your arch as yet as this will be your point of reference when welding in your outer rear sill return.

I was fortunate in this respect as I had a a replacement outer sill, but if you are planning to make your own you will need to have some key points to attach too.

 

If you are planning on making your own, I would be more than happy to shape it for you against my car so as to get the profile and the lip that forms the edge of the sill.

I would leave the arch and the sill areas long for finishing by your self once you are happy with the fit etc'

 

Just an option.

Impressive work so far mate. (Brings back memories.)

One thing I did find about weld through primer was, that despite the fact that it is designed to a degree to cope with welding, I still found that it effected the weld itself.

I found that I had much better results by scraping away the paint at the points of weld so as to have a good clean weld area.

 

Hopefully you have not yet cut away any of your arch as yet as this will be your point of reference when welding in your outer rear sill return.

I was fortunate in this respect as I had a a replacement outer sill, but if you are planning to make your own you will need to have some key points to attach too.

 

If you are planning on making your own, I would be more than happy to shape it for you against my car so as to get the profile and the lip that forms the edge of the sill.

I would leave the arch and the sill areas long for finishing by your self once you are happy with the fit etc'

 

Just an option.

I cut out the rot to this....

Looks like I can get away with just the rear qtr section as the rot stops before the join with the front sill section..... yay some good news...... lol

It is a case of making section for the centre strengthening sill pieces with the flanged holes in them and a new rear quarter bottom piece, that is covered by the skirting kit anyway....

I am lucky it's covered, so if the welding isn't too pretty I can make it solid and sealed, paint it and then cover it.....lol

It would be a lot easier if I had a shaped piece for the rear quarter from the swage line downwards....

That is a lovely offer and I may take you up on it.....especially If my attempts go pear shaped.....lol

I am going to give it a go shaping a piece, as a friend is going to show me how to do it.... he built euro fighters before retiring..... so I called him and asked for some practical advice and lessons in fabrication.....lol

He should be free this week sometime.... I may well be done by the time he is free.....lol

So going to try to make and weld up the inner pieces so he can show me how to do the outer skin to close it all up.... And he can't mig weld.....lol

 

Just having a few problems with 2 neighbours at the moment, being really nasty to my entire family.... so avoiding going out in my close and bumping into them as much as possible.....

Tyres on my daily driver had sidewalls cut and new tyres let down every night for 3 weeks till someone told them we have a camera up, then it suddenly stopped.....

Nasty comments made loudly from inside their houses, but they ignore me in the close..... makes doing the car being overlooked by them a bit awkward.... I don't like the conflict on my doorstep and am trying to ignore them....

But I will only take so much.....lol

The panel looks good mate, taking your time i see which is the best way, if you rush it you will always regret it.

do you have a compressor mate ?

for welding panels together ive got a spare air powered joggler, mates the panels together and when you weld there is alot less chance of blowing holes, you can have it for 30 quid delivered. ( its about 69 delivered brand BNIB which this one is)

 

Thanks for the offer, I am going to try to butt weld the pieces in....:wacko:....so have made the replacement inner panels and cut them to exact sizes.... hopefully this will work.... If not I may be sending you a PM for the joggler and trying to overlap the joints....lol

I have got a small compressor I use for spraying a few bits and pumping up my tyres when they get let down.....lol

 

It is really weird, but I am enjoying doing this, quite therapeutic......

It's the actual welding looking nice that I am getting used to.... I can now make a weld that has good penetration without blowing a hole, I can tack weld and fill the holes I made previously, I can grind back the welds and plug weld....

It's the stitching between spot welds that I am going to work on later tonight......lol

What's best to paint inside the sill sections with before welding each panel on?

I was going for the Upol spray2 weld through, but also have some high zinc content plasticote spray that I was thinking about spraying into the sill as far up as I can???

Hi Russ,

I found these products to be superb.

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/

 

Especially the cavity wax. I would not use anything else.

for cavities i mix up a mixture of tetroseal and old engine oil and spray it in. it never sets hard and coats everything.

ive used it inside sills for years and had great results :)

Hi Russ,

I found these products to be superb.

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/

 

Especially the cavity wax. I would not use anything else.

Thanks for that, I will sit and have a look tonight......

for cavities i mix up a mixture of tetroseal and old engine oil and spray it in. it never sets hard and coats everything.

ive used it inside sills for years and had great results :)

I read about that somewhere.... I think it was a guy doing classic car work said it on a forum.... he swore by it and said the 2 together work well......

Got some reading to do tonight then......lol

I used dinitrol...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321134424033

Edited August 11, 201312 yr by Joely P

proper dinitrol is excellent for corrosion prevention (from aircraft industry ) i dont know how good that stuff is though.

i used to have gallons of dinitrol i "borrowed" from various jobs but over the years its all been used and now its too hard to get so ive switched to engine oil and tetroseal

I used dinitrol...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321134424033

Cheers Joel.....:biggrin::thumbup:

good work there. look forward to seeing it finished.

Erm.... just had maybe a silly thought........Could I permanently fit a length of pipe in the different sections of sill from front to rear, seal one end and put some kind of jets / holes along it's length to be able to spray this stuff in once a year?

I could use something like a grease nipple or brake fluid bleed nipple to connect to and a compressor???

Edited August 11, 201312 yr by veilside01702

you can yes, if you weld a small plate slightly thicker than normal ( maybe 1mm) then put on a small hose tail end and use a boost hose blank to seal it once you have used it, a brake fluid nipple or grease nipple wont give you the kind of spread to fill the cavity

proper dinitrol is excellent for corrosion prevention (from aircraft industry ) i dont know how good that stuff is though.

i used to have gallons of dinitrol i "borrowed" from various jobs but over the years its all been used and now its too hard to get so ive switched to engine oil and tetroseal

 

I still use the dinitrol you speak of regularly (av8, av30 and av25) but this stuff is better for use on steel as it's chemical build up is designed to penetrate and protect steel not alluminium.

I still use dinitrol at work when the need arises, i just struggle to get it out !

im not convinced they changed the chemical makeup of that stuff, i honestly believe its just a mild version we use.

Erm.... just had maybe a silly thought........Could I permanently fit a length of pipe in the different sections of sill from front to rear, seal one end and put some kind of jets / holes along it's length to be able to spray this stuff in once a year?

I could use something like a grease nipple or brake fluid bleed nipple to connect to and a compressor???

 

The only downside I see to that is getting into all the box sections as you know yourself, it's not just 1 section to spread the muck in, it more like 4! With an extension wand and using any of the products mentioned you can fairly easily get to all the sections by removing only the rear quarter trims, and sill protector plates, so I wouldn't bother personally.

I still use dinitrol at work when the need arises, i just struggle to get it out !

im not convinced they changed the chemical makeup of that stuff, i honestly believe its just a mild version we use.

 

You could be right but as its readily available to me I looked into it and also contacted dinitrol who assure me they are very different, the msds seems to back this up and they do look a lot different on application. I still use the aviation stuff inside the car for general water displacement and also used it on my greddy intercoolers which made them look nice and pants! (Obviously not in the heat exchanger!)

Right I have purchased 2 cans of dinitrol with the wands and some rust remover from bilt hammer for my brake discs......

I have treated as much surface rust as possible with wire brush and then hammerite Kurust..... going to pull the interior later when my 1yr old is asleep for morning nap as car is outside lounge window and I can see and hear him from there.....lol

I am going to get my 5 year old to help me and teach him how to use a ratchet and socket set.....lol

Time he learn't how to strip a Z.....lol

Then I can clean up, treat and paint the floorpan and sill's.....

Right, finally my son is asleep....So I pulled the passenger seat out and found loads of surface rust and old welds from accident repair as expected.......

I vacuumed out and cleaned the floorpan and then covered everything with Kurust to kill the rust off.....

I am letting the rust treatment dry out before I get to work with some hammerite smooth silver to make sure that no rust returns for a while....

Then I test fitted my homemade floor bung... I made this from some 0.9mm steel formed between a 42mm core plug and a 38mm core plug, using a 36mm socket to press the shape into the steel....

then I flattened the plate round the indentation using a small hammer and trimmed to a circle....

This is the hole to fill....

This is what I came up with....

And fitted....

Now all I need to do is paint it and fix it in place......

Nice work mate but did you take a wire brush and remove as much surface rust as you could first?

Nice work mate but did you take a wire brush and remove as much surface rust as you could first?

Hi Steams, yes used a drill with wire brush on it.... then hoovered all the loose stuff out and then wiped with clean cloth.... lol

Now I have found the rust.... It's gonna die...... lol

Well at least disappear for a while....

I also just quickly cleaned up and sprayed the seat mountings and subframe..... on a mission before little one wakes up.....lol

Letting kurust dry a bit then going to wipe the area's that are rust free, leaving the black where the rust was.....

Once it is completely dry I will seal with hammerite smooth silver, unless anyone got something better I should use?

Edited August 12, 201312 yr by veilside01702

Hi Steams, yes used a drill with wire brush on it.... then hoovered all the loose stuff out and then wiped with clean cloth.... lol

Now I have found the rust.... It's gonna die...... lol

Well at least disappear for a while....

I also just quickly cleaned up and sprayed the seat mountings and subframe..... on a mission before little one wakes up.....lol

 

Good man :thumbup1: