What the heck would cause the 10A Engine Cont fuse to keep blowing? When I replace it with a new one, it'll do 50-100 miles with no problem, then blow for no apparent reason. I can tell it's blown because the stock boost gauge suddenly sits all the way to the left and doesn't respond until I replace the fuse again (actual boost is fine, and measured correctly by my aftermarket gauge). Another symptom of the blown fuse is that the engine revs at idle drop ~50 - 100 rpm which doesn't sound much but I need to give her a bit of extra throttle to pull away otherwise it's as if she's about to stall. :huh:

you must have shot some where...

 

I'm sure I saw a way to check for electrical leak (short) somewhere... I'll see if i can find it (might have been on the Oz forum)

does your car still drain its own power?? could be related??

does your car still drain its own power?? could be related??

 

It does mate but not as bad as it used to - since Jeff fixed the diode/buzzing issue. This fuse is a relatively recent issue whereas I've had the battery drain almost since time began!

Deffo sounds like a short or a bad connection on the engine loom somewhere. Might be an idea to replace the fuse and tactically go round the various parts of the loom tugging and pulling to try and get the fuse to blow?

Or replace it with a 60amp fuse and the area where the fire starts is quite possibly the area at fault!

Or replace it with a 60amp fuse and the area where the fire starts is quite possibly the area at fault!

 

Thanks Joely! I did as you said and the fire started just to the rear of the engine bay near the fuel filter. I've narrowed the short down to seven smouldering wires.

 

:rofl:

Thanks Joely! I did as you said and the fire started just to the rear of the engine bay near the fuel filter. I've narrowed the short down to seven smouldering wires.

 

:rofl:

 

:lol::lol::lol:

May have something to do with the bulb check relay.

Unfortunately, I believe it is located behind the fuse box in the drivers side footwell!

Not 100% mind, but worth a check.

I had the same problem , i narrowed mine down the the VVT connector had come away from its plastic clip and had melted its self to the drivers side turbo, so check the VVT solenoid wires coming out of the back of the engine, the clips on mine that secure them were very brittle.

:huh: what are you like lol

Or replace it with a 60amp fuse and the area where the fire starts is quite possibly the area at fault!

Hi Can I chip in an idea..... lol

You will need a multimeter with buzzing continuity setting if you connect the 2 probes together.

Remove the fuse, voltage test the fuse holder to see which side goes to the 12v live.

Insert probe into side that isn't the 12v live. This is the one connected to your problem somewhere down the line.....

Connect the other probe to a good earth on the car.

If it buzzes straight away then there is a short somewhere down the line continuously......

If it is constantly buzzing, start unplugging things one at a time to see if it stops. If unplugging it doesn't stop it then just reconnect. Try gently wiggling wires as you go, but be gentle they get very brittle....

If there is No constant buzzing then try wiggling wires and connectors gently to see if it does buzz.....

This may show you the problem by creating the short that blows the fuse....

Hope this is understandable.......

Russ

I was checking fuses cas my lecy arial was working, but the time i finished i managed to fix interia lights and central locking, but me arial still dont work.

thanks for the input folks. there's a bit more to this story, although I don't know if it's linked or not. basically, since I had my N/A diff conversion last June, the speedo has been very intermittent in that it'll show the correct speed (albeit I've only just had the correct gearbox speed sensor put in) for a while, then dip down to zero, then back up again, as if someone's constantly unplugging and plugging in the power. over the past month or so this has been getting worse almost to the point where speed fails to register at all. also recently the power steering started getting lazy and would intermittently not assist the steering. and a fourth thing is that, very occasionally, when under boost, there'd be a slow, loud ticking from behind the speedo cluster. this only just recently started happening too.

 

I know one of the possible causes of both speedo and p/s failing is the speed sensor failing, however my TT sensor is in good condition, and the problem remained when Jeff swapped in a good N/A sensor (the correct sensor for my N/A diff).

 

I know it sounds like there's probably no link between the Engine Cont fuse, the speedo, the steering, and the loud ticking under boost, however over the weekend just gone I went out and spent an hour just staring around the engine bay and making sure everything was securely fastened, and I also removed the rear light panels in the boot and looked around there (I've got brake light/rear fog conversion and illuminated rear panel) to make sure the wiring was in good order. Other than fiddling around with wiring I didn't do anything specific, however over the past three days, the speedo is perfectly fine, the power steering hasn't disappeared, the ticking has stopped and the fuse hasn't blown!!! Going by recent performance at least two of those things would have happened by now.

 

I'm sure this is just a coincidence and that the symptoms will manifest themselves again soon, but I wondered if some combination of these four symptoms would ring a bell with anyone.

 

Jeff suggested I try swapping out the speedo cluster with a known good one in case there was something going on mine, but I wondered if anyone had experienced anything like this before I give that a try...?