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What oil do you lot use/believe to be the best?

I know it's been done before but I'm curious

Membership No 0780

INSURANCE GOOFA

Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

Featured Replies

HKS Fully Synthetic 10W45, made by Idemitsu. I use the little pink HKS oil filters, too :sailor:

Any full synth. oil from a well known brand will usually do, the viscosity can be chosen by the way in which you drive/how hot your engine runs under normal circumstances. I've seen all kinds of engines opened up that ran on different type of oils and the difference in wear is not noticeable to me. But when the engine starts consuming oil due to piston ring wear, I've noticed valve lifters are a weak point on engines using this type (rb25/ca18 to). If you're not running catalysts anymore you could use a diesel engine oil as they clean up the inside of the engine pretty well.

Why did Millers XFS 5w40 get discontinued???

 

 

This is what I used before. What is the recommended Millers Oil from now?

Fuchs 10w 50.. Great stuff!

 

 

agreed although i am swapping to 5 40 fuchs pro s as i believe the 50 was to thick and causing my liffter issue dropping compression on rev limit we will see if its gone :)

Going from 10w50 pro s to 5w40 pro s really quietened my top end down... But then my crank seal started seeping, Doh!

 

I still haven't quite grasped this business, am I right in thinking that a 50 grade will make you less prone to loosing oil when up to temperature?

I still haven't quite grasped this business, am I right in thinking that a 50 grade will make you less prone to loosing oil when up to temperature?

 

Not sure about less prone to losong oil - but a "50" grade will withstand thermal breakdown better under high temperatures (ie stay in grade better) as it is of a thicker viscocity. It would also cause more resistance, being thicker (as I understand it) so unless your engine is tuned for racing, and you do race, then stick with Nissan's recommendations of 10w40 or 5w40.

 

A decent semi-synth like Castrol Magnatec 10w40 is more than adequate for a stock-ish TT in normal use. Although progress in oil formulation since 1990 means that a decent 5w40 fully synth (eg Shell Helix Ultra - one I have regularly used) is a worthwhile, albeit not always necessary, upgrade. If you change the oil at 4500 miles then a fully synth is probably a waste - but a fully synth will be better if you extend oil change intervals.....

 

I always used Helix Ultra with annual changes (5k miles); but this time I switched to Magnatec and have experienced no problems. In fact I have actually noticed a reasonable increase in fuel mileage..... Why? who knows (or cares for that matter...LOL)

 

Richard:cool2:

I have something to say............ It's better to burn out than to fade away..... :tt2:

I used to use Shell Helix Ultra 15w50 for the smell.

 

Heh heh..... I still use the Helix Ultra 0w30 (fooking expensive at £17.99 a litre) to top up the SLK. Although I've never noticed how it smells, Noel:lol:

I have something to say............ It's better to burn out than to fade away..... :tt2:

I used to use kendall 5w 40 fully synthetic oil on mine...... least I would use would be Castrol GTX magnetec fully synthetic..... I also only use good quality filters when servicing.... Coopers are what I used to sell in my old shop....lol

I have used diesel magnatec as I dumped my cats a while ago, but found out that the additive detergents will try to clean the cylinder walls as they are designed to do and causes a loss of compression between the rings and liners...

This can actually cause a loss in performance and compression..... Not what you want....

I used to use it on my old car for a week to clean out the engine and then put a good quality oil and filter back on and in....lol

But then I used to do oil and filter changes once a month..... very anal..... now my daily runner is lucky at once a year.....lol

Watching my Z disintegrate on my driveway!!!

10/40 mineral but changed every 1000 and filter every 2000...keep the oil and put it through my work trucks.

are you saying u can run say a tt on turbo diesel oil and thatl be fine?

Diesels runs more blow by than petrol engines and the blow by residue from them is much worse so the oil for diesel engines have additional additives to avoid clogging of oil system parts. That is the basic difference between diesel and petrol oils. The reason why diesel oils are not standard use on petrol engines is not only due to costs, but the additives can also destroy the catalyst when it enters combustion or leaks past the turbo oil seals.

If you run diesel oil on a petrol engine it will clean up residue inside the engine over time but I wouldn't use it on a catalyst equipped engine.

Diesels runs more blow by than petrol engines and the blow by residue from them is much worse so the oil for diesel engines have additional additives to avoid clogging of oil system parts. That is the basic difference between diesel and petrol oils. The reason why diesel oils are not standard use on petrol engines is not only due to costs, but the additives can also destroy the catalyst when it enters combustion or leaks past the turbo oil seals.

If you run diesel oil on a petrol engine it will clean up residue inside the engine over time but I wouldn't use it on a catalyst equipped engine.

 

Never heard this before...

Basic info you can find on the internet.

Older engines often start to smoke/consume (more) oil when diesel oil is put in them as the additives eat away stuff that prevented leaks past seals or piston rings.

Basic info you can find on the internet.

Older engines often start to smoke/consume (more) oil when diesel oil is put in them as the additives eat away stuff that prevented leaks past seals or piston rings.

 

So it wouldn't be a very good idea to use diesel oil in an old VG then :D

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