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Rear subframe bushes...

I'm dropping my rear subframe and have been considering replacing the bushes, I've done a search and it seems the general consensus is that they are a nightmare to replace. What makes the job such a pita and does anyone have any advice to make it easier?

 

Also, various old threads suggest several different options of bushes that need spacers, some the just fit no probs. What are your experiences with different types of these as far as the final product is concerned? I'd rather not fit solid ones or spacers but any advice welcomed.

 

CheerZ

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Just fit locking collars Joel,half the price,easy to install and you never have to replace later.They dont make much of a compromise in ride either imho.

Or whiteline locking pineapples made of polyurathane no so harsh .

I was almost tempted to do as jimmer suggests and fit collars, but was worried that would cause ride harshness and increase road noise. As I was taking the subframe anyway out to paint it was a no brainer to replace the bushes. I went for the Driftworks bushes for two reasons.

 

1. I then did not have to worry too much about trying to save part of the old bush housing.

2. They were cheaper and I'm a tight git :)

 

If I were to do it again, now knowing whats involved I would probably go with the Energy Suspension bushes. They are designed to fit the Z properly, the Driftworks bushes do the job but the fitting kit that comes with them just han't been thought out.

  • Author
I was almost tempted to do as jimmer suggests and fit collars, but was worried that would cause ride harshness and increase road noise. As I was taking the subframe anyway out to paint it was a no brainer to replace the bushes. I went for the Driftworks bushes for two reasons.

 

1. I then did not have to worry too much about trying to save part of the old bush housing.

2. They were cheaper and I'm a tight git :)

 

If I were to do it again, now knowing whats involved I would probably go with the Energy Suspension bushes. They are designed to fit the Z properly, the Driftworks bushes do the job but the fitting kit that comes with them just han't been thought out.

 

So what's the deal with this saving part of the old bush housing? Do you have pics to explain? When you say 'fit the zed properly', is that because the DW jobbies need a spacer to fit correctly but the ES ones bolts straight up?

Might be worth considering the Whiteline bushes:

 

http://whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W92446

 

This chap on TT.net made the following observation re NVH going from stock to WL:

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2507176/I-installed-whiteline-subframe-bushings-for-a-customer.html

 

-Andrew

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

I was almost tempted to do as jimmer suggests and fit collars, but was worried that would cause ride harshness and increase road noise. As I was taking the subframe anyway out to paint it was a no brainer to replace the bushes. I went for the Driftworks bushes for two reasons.

 

1. I then did not have to worry too much about trying to save part of the old bush housing.

2. They were cheaper and I'm a tight git :)

 

If I were to do it again, now knowing whats involved I would probably go with the Energy Suspension bushes. They are designed to fit the Z properly, the Driftworks bushes do the job but the fitting kit that comes with them just han't been thought out.

 

I fitted some for Funki and he never complained at the ride....say no more Lol

When doing this where do you put the axelstands? I normally jack on the subframe, which would onbviously be useless.

The chassis rail is only double skinned at the front and not meant for jacking at the rear,if you look behind the rear sill there are raised points next to the front subframe mounts,support it there.

If fitting the collors you only need to remove one subframe bolt at a time as you only need it to lower by half an inch.. I didn't use stands just the jack. Had both sides done in 15 min :-)

The chassis rail is only double skinned at the front and not meant for jacking at the rear,if you look behind the rear sill there are raised points next to the front subframe mounts,support it there.

 

I assume you mean those doughnut shaped bits pressed into the floor pan at the rear, I dont use the chassis rail or sil to jack the car as ive learnt that lesson the hard way with previous cars.

  • 2 weeks later...
I had dollars done last mot by jeff.

 

Car drives ace and no effect on ride quality :)

 

do you mind me asking in your breakdown how much were they to do cas my cars going over there soon?

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