Really seeing a trend with failed injectors occuring here, having changed a second one today this week, also have sent out two good used injectors for owners to change themselves, and since January I have done 3 others, cannot be all a chance can it? this particular injector failed during a journey rather than at start up after been shut down overnight which the most common way.

 

Anyhow todays poorly zed had been diagnosed by another garage so I did a few tests myself to be sure and as it happened the original diagnostic was correct, again I thought a few pics may help anyone doing this as this time it was number 2 cylinder so although the basic job approach is the same there is a few differences such as amount of room etc.

 

Jeff TT

 

 

 

So pre-tests included identifying the cylinder not working, if the coil pack is firing, if there is an injector signal coming form the ecu and of course the ultimate resistance test on the injector itself.

 

A simple device but saves a whole lot of time when looking for faults, this Mac coil pack and spark plug tester flashes when close to a working coil pack, a second led flashes at a different rate and provides an idea of the plug spark condition... all without taking anything apart!!

 

 

So all six coil packs are firing and all six plugs have a good blink rate.

 

 

To test the injector output trigger signal from the ecu you need a "noid light" this is a small unit that plugs in to the injector electrical connector and then the engine is started, a steady blink that increases with revs is a good signal from the ecu, so that proves all good with the ecu and wiring loom.

 

 

 

 

So again we see the test meter and a resistance check confirms an open circuit injector, so bring out the dremel again !!

 

 

 

 

So the hidden screw issue is the same with no 2 cylinder, the space between the plenum is a bit tighter here so getting the dremel in is a little harder than the no 6 one I did the other day.

 

 

 

 

 

Continue....

Edited March 14, 201312 yr by JeffTT

So fast forward, the dremel work is done and the plastic cap has been pulled off to reveal the steel section that can be grabbed with mole grips and pulled out..

 

 

Replacement injector ready to go in

 

 

So the replacement is checked for a last time and fitted into the fuel rail

 

 

Worth mentioning, there is a small D shaped insulator under the bridge cap, this needs to be in but has a habit of dropping out as you go to refit it, a small smear of sealant will hold it in place just fine.

 

 

 

With screws all firmly down and not much else to refit on this cylinder you can switch on the ignition and pressure up the fuel rail and check for leaks, note: that when starting the engine after an injector change do not be surprised if it takes 30 second or so for the engine to settle down and run sweet again.

 

 

Jeff TT

Edited March 14, 201312 yr by JeffTT

A handy tool Jeff:yes:

Hope i never have to use it , but its good to know its here for reference.

Fascinating write-up Jeff :bow:

I have tested my injectors today and found no 1 to be reading 78 ohms! The others are 10.2 (9.7 taking into account the dmm lead resistance)

 

only trouble is is I cannot for the life of me get one of the damn screws undone!!! Do I need an impact screwdriver?

Hope mine are ok....

I have tested my injectors today and found no 1 to be reading 78 ohms! The others are 10.2 (9.7 taking into account the dmm lead resistance)

 

only trouble is is I cannot for the life of me get one of the damn screws undone!!! Do I need an impact screwdriver?

 

The screws can be tight, but a really good fit driver should suffice.

I have tested my injectors today and found no 1 to be reading 78 ohms! The others are 10.2 (9.7 taking into account the dmm lead resistance)

 

only trouble is is I cannot for the life of me get one of the damn screws undone!!! Do I need an impact screwdriver?

 

Which car gaz? The black or red one?

Red one, and I have tried screwdrivers , it's FT. I have started to chew the head up so before I do I'm looking at a better option,

When I have chewed up screws to get out, I put a decent screw driver in and then hit the screwdriver with a hammer a few times...... Its a method that has yet to fail me!

Thanks but I have already tried that guess what .........Failed! I'm just gonna swap the whole rail with the spare one I have.

I did have an impact driver but I can't find it for you.

I had this on 2 of mine replaced both but one screw would not come off so I drilled the head off and out came the thread easy job

Thanks that's good to know, I will try once out of the car if I cannot source an impact driver.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&storeId=10001&productId=530655&categoryId=165469&langId=-1

 

Can borrow my trade card if you want

Be careful with an impact driver, the thread tabs will bend down if you go too hard, the trick to removing the screws is a good fitting screw driver, a small rap on the head of the driver with a small hammer, now tighten the screw ever so slightly, this will crack the thread hold without compromising the screw head, then undo it the screw and it will undo unless of course the head has already been mashed ....

 

Jeff TT

Infact I've gotta drive past it to get hone tomorrow so I can can pick it up for you?

The screws are a Phillips No. 2 head, just for reference!

 

Jeff, what is the general consensus of putting an injector in with a missing pintle cap as a last resort? I have one that Is healthy, but the pintle is missing.

The screws are a Phillips No. 2 head, just for reference!

 

Jeff, what is the general consensus of putting an injector in with a missing pintle cap as a last resort? I have one that Is healthy, but the pintle is missing.

 

 

Well never done it, but have stripped engines down with them broken or and missing and were running before, I am guessing they are to just protect the pintle during installation.

 

 

Jeff TT

I take it when you remove the screws you fit bolts or cap screws ?

I fitted allen bolts..so much easier