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  • We did a video earlier this week, the Z hasn't been out the garage since July 2020. So happy for this, this is miles away from professional video, and the guy who helped me with the drone and editing,

  • hedgehog dodger
    hedgehog dodger

    here are some pictures no wear on the interior like new.Standard exhaust and wheels

  • To finish of took her out of the garage for a good clean and polishing…then put her back ?    and there she’ll sit the near as dam it 700bhp beast ?

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  • These parts turned up from Specialty-Z today. Last significant items for the "bolt on" build. I'll post some more pictures of all the stuff I have collected over the years (literally!) in the "Project

  • RichardS
    RichardS

    Today nothing, but I did take the Zed out for a little drive the other day - and stopped for a couple of pics. Any excuse 😉 

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I have booked an evening at Donington on Jul 9th for my next "day out"

A quick copy n paste from my Tracklad fb group sums up my evening.....................

 

Peter Macdonald

 

Survived my first proper trackday at a "big" circuit.!! I had some tuition (included in the price) and had some faults corrected.? It was pretty busy on track at times with some very fast machinery out there. Im not in the "fast" category so I tried to keep out of the way and enjoy myself, which I did. Its a bit intimidating in comparison to Three Sisters... but I will be going again.

 

There is also "photography" in the package so maybe I can post up some action shots.

Na engine stripped down and scavenged for a rebuild I have coming.

 

Engine spec will be:

Na bottom end with the high compression pistons, TT oil pan, TT heads, na manual cams.

 

 

 

 

Also drove the TT zed which last time I put a power steering pump in. The pump is completely dead and pissing fluid out the compressor... So that's another job to do later, not fun.

Na engine stripped down and scavenged for a rebuild I have coming.

 

Engine spec will be:

Na bottom end with the high compression pistons, TT oil pan, TT heads, na manual cams.

 

 

 

 

Also drove the TT zed which last time I put a power steering pump in. The pump is completely dead and pissing fluid out the compressor... So that's another job to do later, not fun.

 

What compression ratio will you have Ali? NA manual cams are the same as TT manual btw, the only ones that a different is the TT auto.

What compression ratio will you have Ali? NA manual cams are the same as TT manual btw, the only ones that a different is the TT auto.

 

It will end up being the same as na 10.5:1 if not a bit lower as I might put a thicker head gasket in.

 

I know the cams are the same, the TT head was an auto though so I just got the manual ones to go in.

 

Everything will be polished and painted/powercoated, just not sure what to do at the moment about restoring the bolts, once I wire wheel them they will just corrode again so might do something like oil dip coating them.

It will end up being the same as na 10.5:1 if not a bit lower as I might put a thicker head gasket in.

 

I know the cams are the same, the TT head was an auto though so I just got the manual ones to go in.

 

Everything will be polished and painted/powercoated, just not sure what to do at the moment about restoring the bolts, once I wire wheel them they will just corrode again so might do something like oil dip coating them.

 

Re zinc coat the bolts. Easy enough to do, just a bit time consuming.

What’s the reasoning behind the high compression build? Are you not worried that on standard pump fuels it’s going to be vulnerable to detonation?

Oh yeah I know, got plenty spare engines though so I'm not too bothered if it blows. I want something rather unique and more interesting than the run of the mill twin turbo. It will feel very different to drive than a stock twin turbo, even sharing most of the same parts.

 

This won't be for the black zed, this will be for the shortie whenever the time is right.

Also I do believe a good reliable map will go a long way. And also boost will be kept under 12psi most likely.

re wired the broken wire to the single connector temp sensor and for the first time in two years the temp needle moves on the cluster, happy days.

Also moved the PTU near the air intake under the front nose, so when i re build the front end after the timing belt replacement it will look a bit tidier.

will need to make a bracket to hold it in place.

 

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Also I do believe a good reliable map will go a long way. And also boost will be kept under 12psi most likely.

 

Obviously it’s your car and you do as you please but I think you will have more joy at a lower compression ratio. In fact stick to the stock TT ratio. Don’t forget I’ve had a TT’d NA albiet on a stock map it detonated even in safety boost like a bag of crisps and lasted about 10 pulls before it blew the ring lands.

Jim sourced the kit from either CZP or Z1.

 

OK. It's an upgrade I've wanted to do for a while.

Trip to PowerZed yesterday for new rear wheel bearings and a 350Z clutch fork kit and new release bearing install.

 

 

Nice one Andrew - all ready for Coventry then....:thumbup:

I have something to say............ It's better to burn out than to fade away..... :tt2:

.

 

 

 

There is also "photography" in the package so maybe I can post up some action shots.

 

 

 

Speed thrills..................

 

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Today I did some mundane stuff.... Changed the tow strap for a new one. While I was in there I emptied the catch tanks and cleaned the little breathers.

The air filter looked a bit clogged up so that had a pressure wash with TFR and a compressed air blow dry.

The car just needs a quick wash to be ready for Coventry.

 

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Today I had a bit of time and took the opportunity to change the badly damaged and drilled boot lining over the arches. The original set had several deep scuffs in them but the real issue was where the previous owner had drilled holes to fit a shelf for 6x9s and holes to easily access the adjustable suspension. I removed the shelf some time ago but I’ve attached the picture to keep the progress together.

 

0D5246F9-8D7A-44A0-AF0E-0D840207750F.jpg

 

983D290A-FA7D-4B46-91D6-653A5B3BAD30.jpg

 

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9BFE1836-101A-41BC-878F-C657C77F23E3.jpg

 

Now it’s starting to come together but I’m still on the look out for even better. :wink:

 

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Went to Coventry meet AGM on Sunday

Bought a strut brace from Mike Sandford.

Sourced some bolts that were missing.

Polished it

Fitted it today.

 

Does it do anything apart from add weight???:whistling:

I think it may help front end rigidity "a bit":yes:

Or is it just useless Taiwan Bling Tat??:lol:

Who knows!

 

 

DSCF6868.jpg

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Well if it is properly engineered then this is what should be going on:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]113489[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]113490[/ATTACH]

 

Our suspension doesn’t work like that though does it? From wha I understand...It’s double wishbone. The vertical force is applied to the upright and any horizontal force applied to the inner wing. This is why the strut can be held in with a pair of small bolts that require low torque settings, the strut is simply located by them. As far as I’m aware the Z32 chassis doesn’t benifit from a front strut brace, particularly those that aren’t solid. There’s some minor benefit to be had in the rear to reduce lateral flex of the shell, some. The major flaw to be rectified and braced is where the front rails meet the main part of the chassis. Those trianglar braces that go behind the wing.

Our suspension doesn’t work like that though does it? From wha I understand...It’s double wishbone. The vertical force is applied to the upright and any horizontal force applied to the inner wing. This is why the strut can be held in with a pair of small bolts that require low torque settings, the strut is simply located by them. As far as I’m aware the Z32 chassis doesn’t benifit from a front strut brace, particularly those that aren’t solid. There’s some minor benefit to be had in the rear to reduce lateral flex of the shell, some. The major flaw to be rectified and braced is where the front rails meet the main part of the chassis. Those trianglar braces that go behind the wing.
The vertical loading is transmitted from the coilover to the top mount, this is always in compression and the 2 small bolts only serve to keep the top mount in position.

 

Triangulation is the best way to make anything stiffer just like in engineering or roof construction, a brace from the top mount to the bulk head (like bmw) is a much better solution aslong as the attachment point on the bulk head is designed to take the loading placed on it by the brace.

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