Guys,

The car hasn't done this for 8 months!

Engine just cuts out, all lights come on and I have to pull over, no brakes no steering etc.

Only does it after about 1 hour of driving, everything else works starter and all other electrics, but it just won't fire up, wait about 10 min and it starts instantly???

Goes on for 1/2 hour then does it again

Could it be some relay or such getting hot and failing? All winter long fine, the temp shows just under 1/2 way as norm, I have had the diognostics checked last week all 100%. But there are so many small boxes with wires in under the bonnet would one cough & splutter in the sunshine.

Help much appreciated.

 

Roofless, Ray Ban, & Hazzards!

 

Sounds like a defective power-transistor.

 

You could try to clean the connectors..but I think it's going to be over soon :-(

 

-Eric

 

 

 

Cheers Eric,

Nothing lasts forever, so were is it, & we'll fix/replace.

 

harve.

 

I don't have a picture of it right now, but it's on the front of the engine.

left-side..flat box (~10x10cm )with an aluminium cooler and 2 thick connectors attached to it..

It's partly under one of the thick rubber intake hoses.

 

-Eric

 

Harve,

 

Mine went a month after I got the car, it ran only for 10 mins before cutting out each time, so your lucky with half an hour ;-)

 

If your despirate to get fixed a UK part is gonna cost you around £300. If you can wait try importing the part from courtesy nissan in the states.

 

Ta

 

Eddie ;-)

 

Heros'

Just had a look at it, Bloody hell, the missus could plant bulbs in there, worse than me air filter was.

I'm off to get me Dremmel.

Any other bits go mouldy do you know?

 

Much abbliged.

 

harve

 

I know this won't help you at all, but I had the exact problem a few years ago, I've just looked through my paperwork to find out what was done, but it was a warranty claim so I don't have a receipt. Basically it was a temperature sensor that was faulty and was cutting out the car cos it thought it was overheating. I hope this might help - probably not!

 

Vijay

 

Ok,

Cleaned all the connections on the trasistor & leads. Checked it still starts 'ok'.

But I'm curious about the temp sensor, is it for the coolant or engine in general, if its the same condition as the transistor, tell me were it is and i'd better give it look.

Any more suspect areas to look for before I go though every box & plug under the bonnet.

 

harve.

 

When the temp-sensor is faulty it will show up as an errorcode in the ECU.

You wrote you recently did a ECU-diag, but no errors came up, so I think there's nothing wrong with the sensor(s)

But if you want to clean the sensor anyway:

There are two temp-sensors on the front of the engine on the metal upper cooling-tube.

The one with the big connector is the one that the ECU uses, the small one is for the electric fan.

 

-Eric

 

Hmmm Coolant Sensor Time ...

 

Wot I can tell you is that if you run the engine with the 2 prong sensor disconnected it will run your leccy fan even at idle and cold. Mine gave code 13.

 

The single one does your temp guage (dunno if does anything else).

 

Run a multimeter on the 2 prong connection from cold to hot and measure resistance. Someone might be sober enough to give you the correct readings.

 

I still think it's the PTU. So many people from different sources claimed the same problem and it's always been PTU.

 

Ta Eddie !!!

 

Eric, you astound me.

Where did you get all this spec' and info on the Z's. I know you have 2 of the buggers but respect where its due.

Every time I see something in respect to my car I have to run through the kitchen to the garage look see and sort it.

The manuals are good but you should have an 'Erics clinic' section opposite.

Free of charge of course:-)

 

harve.

 

 

:-)

 

I had this same problem not so long ago. The car was running fine until she got hot, then simply cut out. No warning. After 15 minutes or so she would start up again and run for a little bit and then die again. It was diagnosed to be the ignition amplifier which cost just under £50 to sort out and replace with new.

It's your PTU! Do a ECU diagnostic to confirm then buy one and plug and play.

 

Head up, play on!

 

Simon

To avoid confusion: ignition amplifier = PTU = Power transistor unit

 

Ajay you were very lucky it costed just 50 quid !

Normally it costs something like 300.

 

-Eric

 

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by lymon (edited 25-05-2001).]

Basically it cost me so little because I had a Warranty on the car that I bought when I got my Zed. It gives me unlimited claims of up to £1000 each providing the car is kept serviced. The £50 was for an A service, just to get the warranty company to pay.

 

Sounds good but the company to whom I entrusted my car treated it like it was their playtoy instead of mine. I picked her up to discover that they had managed to scratch both doors (about 6-9 vertical 1cm-3cm faint scratches), for some reason they had found it necessary to adjust my fans, aircon and seat?? and they had removed the boot cover, not putting it back correctly so it was just lying over the spare wheel in a mess and fiddled with my cds, obviously getting them all out of the changer and not putting them back in the right order. They had also driven 14 miles in it and used nearly 1/4 of a tank of petrol. These boys had been flooring her. Needless to say, she will not be going back there again and if anybody is recommended L.A. Autos (as I was by the AA...) do not, do NOT trust your Zed to them.