I just got my zed back from the garage after they have supossedly fixed it.

i get half way home, turn the lights on only to find that the high beams won't turn off, none of the side lights and none of the rear lights work except the brakes.

i tried going back to the garage to find out what they have done only to have them tell me they haven't done anything that would affect the lights except maybe when they pulled out the rear fog switch and accidently pulled the wires off.

so i tried to drive home again before it was too dark, got about a mile from home and steam started pouring out from under the bonnet :censored:

managed to pull over, had a look and it looks like the plastic bit on the top where the big hose attachs has snapped off so the hose couldn't reattach properly.

i managed to get it on enough to get me home, so i filled up the water again, just to find it all pi55in out the bottom of the car on the passenger side.

I think i am very close to giving up on the zed now! it just seems to be one thing after another at the moment, or like today one thing on top of another on top of another on top of another etc etc :crying::surrender:

The lights could just be the fuse. I blew the head light fuse the other day and it just turns on the high beams instead.

dont give up just take it to luke or jeff and you have a top job

problem solved

jesus mate how frustrating...park it up and have a look in the cold light of the day tomorrow. Have the garage disturbed the cooling system at all? what work was carried out to fix it.

sounds like the fuse has gone yup.

The lights could just be the fuse. I blew the head light fuse the other day and it just turns on the high beams instead.

where would the fuse be? i did have a quick look at the ones in the drivers footwell but couldn't see properly as it was getting dark and the fuse cover is in japanese.

would this fuse also stop all the side and rear lights from working?

jesus mate how frustrating...park it up and have a look in the cold light of the day tomorrow. Have the garage disturbed the cooling system at all? what work was carried out to fix it.

the garage were fitting a bypass switch to up the ampage so that the cold start issue would be resolved (bodge job i know but until i get some money together it will have to do), so they shouldn't have gone anywhere near the cooling system.

as for welder sparx comment, i would but now it is undrivable until the cooling system is sorted and birmingham is a very long way to go!

I was changing a side light bulb at the time when mine blew.

 

Third one in on the top row will be a red 10 amp fuse

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?164654-Fuse-box-translation

Edited October 17, 201213 yr by Cyberbean

i just checked the fuse and it was blown (thanks cyberbean) so i replaced it with the only spare i had and it blew straight away so i'm guessing it's definatly something to do with the fog light switch that they messed about with. i'll have to buy a load of fuses and have a play with it.

then its just the rad to sort out.

don't suppose there is a fitting/removal guide on here somewhere is there?

I had something like that ages ago... and it was because I wire in the wires of the fog wrong.

Pretty much I have a live that was connected to the ground... so as soon as the switch was on it kill the fuse.

 

Might be something simple like that... good luck. :)

it just seems strange that they messed about with it as they had no need to and now have caused this issue.

it just seems strange that they messed about with it as they had no need to and now have caused this issue.

 

It's no biggy and I am sure will be blatantly obvious bud, make sure you only ever use a 10 amp though, don't be tempted to 'cure' it by going bigger :closedeyes:

Rad is really easy to remove, obviously drain water via the drain plug on the bottom drivers side of rad, remove top hose and bottom hose, remove the two brackets on the crossmember and the rad will lift out. Mind the rubber mounts on the bottom of the rad, may fall off and drop under the car and you may forget about them till its to late lol.

 

Headlights: sounds like a short or open circuit on the lighting ring, if the fog/switch was touched, start there first to eliminate it from your search.

Rad is really easy to remove, obviously drain water via the drain plug on the bottom drivers side of rad, remove top hose and bottom hose, remove the two brackets on the crossmember and the rad will lift out. Mind the rubber mounts on the bottom of the rad, may fall off and drop under the car and you may forget about them till its to late lol.

how easy would it be to replace the rad with an aftermarket ally one? from what i gather, it just seems to be the top mounts that are the problem. also what would be different from a tt and an n/a one? as i've been looking and pretty much every one is for a tt.

also how easy would it be to attach the fan shroud?

i know there is alot to answer but i'm pretty new to fixing my own cars, i usually just take them to the garage.

thanks in advance.

The after market ally or TT rad is thicker than the N/A, iirc you need to modify the bottom brackets to fit, top brackets just stop it moving about and as far as fan shroud, i binned mine, its not essential on an N/A for cooling and have noticed no rise in temps in over a year of not having it.

Correct tt rads are narrower to allow the intake pipes to go through, the lower mounts do have to be changed, z1motorsports have a alloy adaptor available...

 

don't give up, it is an old sports car, comes with ownership.

The after market ally or TT rad is thicker than the N/A, iirc you need to modify the bottom brackets to fit, top brackets just stop it moving about and as far as fan shroud, i binned mine, its not essential on an N/A for cooling and have noticed no rise in temps in over a year of not having it.

so does a ally rad fit into the standard tt lower bracket? also will all the original hoses fit?

i just want to fix the car asap as it is my daily driver.

Ive got a japspeed road race radiator and it fits on the bottom brackets fine, no adjustment needed.

Ive got a japspeed road race radiator and it fits on the bottom brackets fine, no adjustment needed.

is that the same rad that japspeed were selling for £109 a while back? also is your car a tt as mine is a n/a and i was told the lower bracket is a different size.

NA Brackets holes are closer together

NA Brackets holes are closer together

are you talking about top or bottom? sorry for sounding thick, i just have no idea about this. this will be one of the first jobs i've under taken myself. i would take it to the garage but i can't drive it there :)

bottem ...

 

on the 300.. the mounts for the Rad are in the front cross member like big rubber bungs

TT are wider apart

NA are closer together

bottem ...

 

on the 300.. the mounts for the Rad are in the front cross member like big rubber bungs

TT are wider apart

NA are closer together

so i take it, it would jut be a case of simply moving the rubber bungs then? until i get the rad out i don't really know what i'm dealing with.

You'll need some thing like this to fit TT radiator into a NA or have the bottom mounting brackets welding into the correct position

 

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_15&products_id=3826

Starting to think it will be quicker and easier to just get a standard replacement rad. any idea where i could get one with next day delivery?

Try JeffTT at zedworld, he may have one in ready to go.