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clocks doesn`t work :(

I had some spare time to work on my z so i changed heater matrix, s2 heating controls, new dash, uk clocks.... the problem is that speedo doesn`t work but not always. when u start the car power steering does work but no speedo and then after 5 min driving power steering doesn`t work... after another 15 min power steering works and so speedo and from now ant then speedo and power steering doesn`t work... faulty clocks ?

 

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dodgy connections? :)

Dry joint on the speedo board around the R10 resistor area, very common problem. Re flowing solder over the tracks can sometimes cure the problem. It can be worse in winter months where everything in the car is cold, you will also find once the heater has been on and helped warm the dash area the speedo works again, along with a bang on the top of the dash. If thats the case then deffo dry joint.

  • Author

thanx will put my jap clocks back 2morow and have a look at uk clocks and do blue led conversion at the same time :)

  • 1 year later...
Dry joint on the speedo board around the R10 resistor area, very common problem. Re flowing solder over the tracks can sometimes cure the problem. It can be worse in winter months where everything in the car is cold, you will also find once the heater has been on and helped warm the dash area the speedo works again, along with a bang on the top of the dash. If thats the case then deffo dry joint.

 

Sorry for dragging this old thread up. But Graham, do you have a circuit diagram for the area in question? I used to have a drawing indicating the tracks and joints that fail, but I can't find it anymore. It's probably on one of my old dead laptops (riddled with viruses from looking at too much porn).

 

My UK speedo does this sometime from cold. Leave the car in the sun for a while and it's fine, but it gets stored in a cool garage all the time and first thing, it doesn't work. Usually fine after 5 minutes of driving, but it's getting annoying. Last of the things I need to fix on my car and I'm pulling the clocks at the weekend to fit anti-rattle-tape behind it.

Interesting read as I have an intermittant problem that may also be related

 

I can be driving along and somthing goes 'bing' behind the dash. The speedo goes all the way up to 180 then drops to zero, and I lose the power stearing. Then after a second or two the speedo goes back to normal and so does the steering.

 

This only ever happens at low speed when driving round town.

 

The thing that goes bing is like a single chime of the noise you get if you leave your lights on with ignition off and open the door

 

Is this due to the same reason, dry joint behind the clocks?

 

Rich

That's the speed chime warning that's standard on JDM cars. You need to take the clocks out to pull the chime wire. I can't remember which one it is, but if you search 'speed chime', you should be able to find out which wire it is that needs pulling. It's green from memory, that's all I can remember! haha

Remove the top cown over the speedo (2 screws)

 

The speaker is a black box at the back to the left, connected by yellow and white plug. Its screwed onto a metal bracket.

 

You can just unplug it. That will disable all chimes, or there is a wire you can cut that only disabled the speed chime but I cant remember which, Im sure there is a writeup somewhere.

 

I cant remember if you can see it from just removing the cowl, you may have to pull the clocks out too.

Sorry for dragging this old thread up. But Graham, do you have a circuit diagram for the area in question? I used to have a drawing indicating the tracks and joints that fail, but I can't find it anymore. It's probably on one of my old dead laptops (riddled with viruses from looking at too much porn).

 

My UK speedo does this sometime from cold. Leave the car in the sun for a while and it's fine, but it gets stored in a cool garage all the time and first thing, it doesn't work. Usually fine after 5 minutes of driving, but it's getting annoying. Last of the things I need to fix on my car and I'm pulling the clocks at the weekend to fit anti-rattle-tape behind it.

 

 

Yes, the four dots are normally the culprit, but also check around the R10 and connectors on C2, also check board for any obvious signs of dry joints

 

Speed11.jpg

  • Author
Interesting read as I have an intermittant problem that may also be related

 

I can be driving along and somthing goes 'bing' behind the dash. The speedo goes all the way up to 180 then drops to zero, and I lose the power stearing. Then after a second or two the speedo goes back to normal and so does the steering.

 

This only ever happens at low speed when driving round town.

 

The thing that goes bing is like a single chime of the noise you get if you leave your lights on with ignition off and open the door

 

Is this due to the same reason, dry joint behind the clocks?

 

Rich

 

It's due to dry joint

Cut the green/yellow wire to stop the speed chime but retain the lights on chime, at the chime box, not the speedo lol

I think mine chimes when I come to a stop, at lights for example. Never new what it was. My power steering only works when I start the car. Normally lasts a couple of minutes till it stops working. Cant figure out what makes it stop, doesn't seem linked to speed, gear (auto) or steering. Hicas is removed (I think) there are two large diameter pipes blocked off at the bottom of the engine and light is on. Steering fluid level is correct topped up with correct fluid. Could the chime be linked????

 

 

ps. Sorry for hijacking the thread ;)

Chime box wont affect the steering, the speed bong comes in at 112mph on jap imports often the chime wont come in if the ecu has been chipped and the speed and rev limit removed.

 

The dry joints on the speedo board is normally the culprit to affect power steering and intermittent needle movement.

 

You can unplug the chime box from behind the binnacle, it wont affect any running or other issues, you just wont get the bong when you leave your lights on.

Thats what I mean, my chime only bongs when I come to a stop. Not at high speed. Is this a sign of an error?? Also I resoldered all the joints on the back of the speedo. Anything else that can affect power steering??

Chime box wont affect the steering, the speed bong comes in at 112mph on jap imports often the chime wont come in if the ecu has been chipped and the speed and rev limit removed.

 

The dry joints on the speedo board is normally the culprit to affect power steering and intermittent needle movement.

 

You can unplug the chime box from behind the binnacle, it wont affect any running or other issues, you just wont get the bong when you leave your lights on.

 

That kinda makes sense - when the fault happens my speedo needle goes all the way to the top and it goes bong (must think I am driving too fast though as I say - this only ever happens at low speeds) and then the speedo drops all the way to zero and I lose my power steering - then after a couple of seconds it all comes back to normal

 

I will get the clocks out and look for dry joints on the PCB as explained - when I have my car back that is. I know how to do it, I've had them out before and even managed to put it all back together again too! If I can do it then it must be pretty easy lol

 

Rich

Thats what I mean, my chime only bongs when I come to a stop. Not at high speed. Is this a sign of an error?? Also I resoldered all the joints on the back of the speedo. Anything else that can affect power steering??

 

IIRC there was another case where this has happened, a dodgy earth or corrosion somewhere on the back of the fuse board in the footwell.

 

I will do some searching and see if i can find it, may be a JeffTT post.

That kinda makes sense - when the fault happens my speedo needle goes all the way to the top and it goes bong (must think I am driving too fast though as I say - this only ever happens at low speeds) and then the speedo drops all the way to zero and I lose my power steering - then after a couple of seconds it all comes back to normal

 

I will get the clocks out and look for dry joints on the PCB as explained - when I have my car back that is. I know how to do it, I've had them out before and even managed to put it all back together again too! If I can do it then it must be pretty easy lol

 

Rich

 

 

Rich, do you have a speedo converter on the back of the dash? Many speedo issues as described in previous post, but also another culprit on imports are the cheap speedo converters faulty or wired incorrectly, if you do have one fitted, when you get your car back, disconnect it and revert back to stock. It will read in kph, but it will help determine if its the speedo at fault or the converter.

 

I changed to UK clocks which on occasion i still get an intermittent speedo in the winter when its really cold, in the warm or summer it works perfectly, which also indicates a dry joint on the board, as you know the tracks/solder can contract or expand in extreme temp changes and if there is a dry joint, its the first thing to give way.

 

And as you are an electronics genius, i have no doubt at all that you can sort it lol

 

IIRC there was another case where this has happened, a dodgy earth or corrosion somewhere on the back of the fuse board in the footwell.

 

I will do some searching and see if i can find it, may be a JeffTT post.

 

Thanks mate ;)

How the hell do you split the clocks? It's been years since I've done it. pushed the tabs out, but it won't split from the bottom. There's nothing retaining it (from view) either.

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