Hi all, I've finally had time to pop to my girlfriends for the weekend and have taken some pictures of my car. Im hoping you guys can help me identify the aftermarket mods and any missing parts from my engine bay. I've listed what I can see and what I think stuff is, but feel free to tell me if im wrong! For those that don't know I bought this as a non-runner a few weeks ago and am going to pull the engine out in the NY and find out what's gone wrong. The car has what a few people have described as 'an old school Japanese setup'.

 

Also, can someone tell me how to embed my photos at full size as everyone else seems to be able to do. When I do it I can only get a thumbnail size image you then click on.

 

What's the black cable that comes from the bottom of the picture and goes in under the back of the engine cover? Throttle cable?

HICAS controller has been removed. HID control box in its place.

 

Thermal wrap around the power steering pipe, im presuming its to protect it from what I think is the intercooler pipe?

 

Thermal wrap around the exhaust manifold which I know from speaking to JeffTT that it has aftermarket manifolds and pipes linking to the exhaust. Them being three separate pipes from each port is a good thing right?

 

Hard pipes for intercooler and air intake to throttle bodies with T-section for extra injector on intake. do they look like standard throttle bodies?

 

MAF removed and twin air air filters added. Look in crap condition or are they normally black? Any idea what they are?

 

Nismo aftermarket radiator with air-con rad in front? Is the electric fan in front standard? I've never heard anyone mention one and it still has the viscous fan.

 

Earl's oil cooler with braided hoses right up front for cooling engine oil.

 

Better picture of the other banks extra injector with braided hose running to the other side and T-piece in the middle that runs around the side of the engine and connects to the main fuel pipe that comes into the engine bay from the passenger side.

 

Cam sprockets look aftermarket and I was told when I bought it that it has race cams.

 

Is the yellow sensor on the bottom left of the picture the temp sender?

 

Whats the black box marked Greddy? I has a Greddy boost controller in the dash and there are lots of silicon hoses connected to it, im presuming they are vacuum hoses?

 

What's the silver unit in the top left of the picture with black, yellow and blue hoses connected to it? Im guessing its something to do with boost?

 

What's the pipe for coming off the end of the balance bar for and where does it go when it turns left and goes down below?

 

Just above the balance bar bolt there is a pipe that has been blanked off, any idea what its for and what's the round metal piece just to the right of the brake fluid pot for?

 

What are the other two black hoses that are joined in the top right of the picture and where do they come from and go to?

Edited December 17, 201113 yr by vodkashots
sorting out pictures

Lots of red power lines coming off the battery mains, im presuming for the injectors. Why does one of them go straight to the inner wheel arch, it looks like an earth off the positive??? Is the black and yellow one that goes straight through the bulk head for the ignition power?

 

There are two other red ones that go inside the wheel arch and the black one that disappears behind the battery if anyone can shed some light on them.

 

What would the blanked off hose in front of the aircon rad be for?

 

 

If anyone can shed any light on any of this stuff I would be grateful as alot of it doesn't match up with diagrams I have seen.

 

Cheers:biggrin:

Pictures fixed, ill reply shortly

Pictures fixed, ill reply shortly

 

Nice one thanks, can you tell me how to do it lol?

Nice one thanks, can you tell me how to do it lol?

 

Once you have uploaded the pictures and it shows them in the image management box as just little jpegs text, right click each one and open in new tab, then copy the URL it gives for the image and use the "insert image" icon (little mountain with the sun on it) and past it into the box, it will then insert the image in code where ever your cursor is onscreen, so make sure you put your cursor where you want the image to appear.

 

Or you can use photobucket.com to upload your pictures, and then when you want to use the picture, you hover your mouse over the image until it gives you the drop down box and just click the code setting, it will say "saved" then just right click and paste it into the reply

Hi all, I've finally had time to pop to my girlfriends for the weekend and have taken some pictures of my car. Im hoping you guys can help me identify the aftermarket mods and any missing parts from my engine bay. I've listed what I can see and what I think stuff is, but feel free to tell me if im wrong! For those that don't know I bought this as a non-runner a few weeks ago and am going to pull the engine out in the NY and find out what's gone wrong. The car has what a few people have described as 'an old school Japanese setup'.

 

Also, can someone tell me how to embed my photos at full size as everyone else seems to be able to do. When I do it I can only get a thumbnail size image you then click on.

 

What's the black cable that comes from the bottom of the picture and goes in under the back of the engine cover? Throttle cable?

HICAS controller has been removed. HID control box in its place.

 

Thermal wrap around the power steering pipe, im presuming its to protect it from what I think is the intercooler pipe?

 

Thermal wrap around the exhaust manifold which I know from speaking to JeffTT that it has aftermarket manifolds and pipes linking to the exhaust. Them being three separate pipes from each port is a good thing right?

 

Hard pipes for intercooler and air intake to throttle bodies with T-section for extra injector on intake. do they look like standard throttle bodies?

 

MAF removed and twin air air filters added. Look in crap condition or are they normally black? Any idea what they are?

 

Nismo aftermarket radiator with air-con rad in front? Is the electric fan in front standard? I've never heard anyone mention one and it still has the viscous fan.

 

Earl's oil cooler with braided hoses right up front for cooling engine oil.

 

Better picture of the other banks extra injector with braided hose running to the other side and T-piece in the middle that runs around the side of the engine and connects to the main fuel pipe that comes into the engine bay from the passenger side.

 

Cam sprockets look aftermarket and I was told when I bought it that it has race cams.

 

Is the yellow sensor on the bottom left of the picture the temp sender?

 

Whats the black box marked Greddy? I has a Greddy boost controller in the dash and there are lots of silicon hoses connected to it, im presuming they are vacuum hoses?

 

What's the silver unit in the top left of the picture with black, yellow and blue hoses connected to it? Im guessing its something to do with boost?

 

What's the pipe for coming off the end of the balance bar for and where does it go when it turns left and goes down below?

 

Just above the balance bar bolt there is a pipe that has been blanked off, any idea what its for and what's the round metal piece just to the right of the brake fluid pot for?

 

What are the other two black hoses that are joined in the top right of the picture and where do they come from and go to?

 

Lots of red power lines coming off the battery mains, im presuming for the injectors. Why does one of them go straight to the inner wheel arch, it looks like an earth off the positive??? Is the black and yellow one that goes straight through the bulk head for the ignition power?

 

There are two other red ones that go inside the wheel arch and the black one that disappears behind the battery if anyone can shed some light on them.

 

What would the blanked off hose in front of the aircon rad be for?

 

 

If anyone can shed any light on any of this stuff I would be grateful as alot of it doesn't match up with diagrams I have seen.

 

Cheers:biggrin:

 

Picture 1,

 

Black cable that goes under the cut throttle cover, is the throttle cable

 

Picture 2,

 

Have no idea why there is heat tape over your powersteering pipe?

 

Picture 3,

 

Not sure what make induction kit (airfilters they are), Air con fan as standard, it will come on when the engine temp reaches 105 degrees or there is a open circuit on the temp ecu sender, oil cooler is for cooling gearbox oil not engine oil.

 

Picture 4,

 

yellow connector in the image is indeed the ECU temp sender, the small black one next to it, sends a signal to the dash temp gauge so you know how hot it is.

 

Picture 5,

 

Greddy boost controller unit, and the actuator valve by the looks of the black box and the silver cylinder, by the looks of it, you have a N/A balance bar on a TT

 

Picture 6 second post,

 

The thick red wires going to the neg, are the grounding kit for the engine, the wire coming from the positive and going into the wing, looks like it might be a amp feed wire for ICE install.

 

Picture 7,

 

The blanked off pipes are where the OEM recirculating dump valves were.

Picture 1,

 

Black cable that goes under the cut throttle cover, is the throttle cable

 

Picture 2,

 

Have no idea why there is heat tape over your powersteering pipe?

 

Picture 3,

 

Not sure what make induction kit (airfilters they are), Air con fan as standard, it will come on when the engine temp reaches 105 degrees or there is a open circuit on the temp ecu sender, oil cooler is for cooling gearbox oil not engine oil.

 

Picture 4,

 

yellow connector in the image is indeed the ECU temp sender, the small black one next to it, sends a signal to the dash temp gauge so you know how hot it is.

 

Picture 5,

 

Greddy boost controller unit, and the actuator valve by the looks of the black box and the silver cylinder, by the looks of it, you have a N/A balance bar on a TT

 

Picture 6 second post,

 

The thick red wires going to the neg, are the grounding kit for the engine, the wire coming from the positive and going into the wing, looks like it might be a amp feed wire for ICE install.

 

Picture 7,

 

The blanked off pipes are where the OEM recirculating dump valves were.

 

Nice one mate thanks alot. Any issue with it having an NA balance bar? There is no ICE in the car at all unless it was removed at some point and they left the cable, will have to trace it back.

 

Where is the engine oil cooler located?

 

I have an aftermarket digital temp gauge on the steering column so that would get its reading from the second temp sender unit?

 

If the recirculating dump valves have been blocked then should I expect there to be a pair that vent to the atmosphere somewhere?

 

Where do boost gauges take their reading from? I seem to have two in my car but don't understand why. I'll put up some interior pics and questions tomorrow.

Nice one mate thanks alot. Any issue with it having an NA balance bar? There is no ICE in the car at all unless it was removed at some point and they left the cable, will have to trace it back.

 

Where is the engine oil cooler located?

 

I have an aftermarket digital temp gauge on the steering column so that would get its reading from the second temp sender unit?

 

If the recirculating dump valves have been blocked then should I expect there to be a pair that vent to the atmosphere somewhere?

 

Where do boost gauges take their reading from? I seem to have two in my car but don't understand why. I'll put up some interior pics and questions tomorrow.

 

by default the OEM engine set up doesnt have a oil cooler for the engine, it cools from the water running around the system, not sure you would want to cool the engine oil as the oil wouldn't be preforming optimally.

 

You may find that one is a water temp gauge and the other is oil temp gauge, you most likely have atmospheric dump valves, but i cant see them from the pictures you have supplied.

 

Not sure on the balance bar, doubt there would be anything wrong if its plumbed in correctly and from the looks of it it is.

 

Boost gauges (after market) take there reading from vacuum created off the balance bar.

 

The OEM one, takes the vacuum into the boost solenoid and converts it to an electric signal that goes to the dash cluster.

by default the OEM engine set up doesnt have a oil cooler for the engine, it cools from the water running around the system, not sure you would want to cool the engine oil as the oil wouldn't be preforming optimally.

 

You may find that one is a water temp gauge and the other is oil temp gauge, you most likely have atmospheric dump valves, but i cant see them from the pictures you have supplied.

 

Not sure on the balance bar, doubt there would be anything wrong if its plumbed in correctly and from the looks of it it is.

 

Boost gauges (after market) take there reading from vacuum created off the balance bar.

 

The OEM one, takes the vacuum into the boost solenoid and converts it to an electric signal that goes to the dash cluster.

 

Cheers mate,

 

There is actually a blue vacuum line going to one of the boost gauges and there is a blue one coming off the balance bar so will check that out tomorrow. I don't get why there is two boost gauges though, it's random.

 

Im going to pop the dash out at some point to help trace everything and see whats going on with the alarm and get the electric mirrors working again.

Looks like the sides of your plenum have been extended as well

Looks like the sides of your plenum have been extended as well

 

Yeah right, I questioned why it wasn't painted all over but didn't notice that the bulge wasn't normal. Would that just be to increase the air flow through the plenum?

by default the OEM engine set up doesnt have a oil cooler for the engine, it cools from the water running around the system, not sure you would want to cool the engine oil as the oil wouldn't be preforming optimally.

 

Both UK and Japs have Oil coolers as standard. The UK has a 19row 235mm oil cooler, The Jap has a much smaller cooler as standard, which is pretty inefficient. They are both mounted in front of the radiator under the nose pabel. The UK cooler or a similar cooler is a great upgrade to the stock Jap setup.

Edited December 18, 201113 yr by Yowser

Both UK and Japs have Oil coolers as standard. The UK has a 19row 235mm oil cooler, The Jap has a much smaller cooler as standard, which is pretty inefficient. They are both mounted in front of the radiator under the nose pabel. The UK cooler or a similar cooler is a great upgrade to the stock Jap setup.

 

my mistake, i actually cant remember taking any oil pipes off my N/A but do for the TT as they connect near the front of the car on the alt side of engine bay down by the rad.

 

For my N/A im certain there was no such oil cooling.

Looks like this car has had some serious SE Nissan work done to it as they used to do all the odd things you have.

 

The extra injectors usually worked off a certain boost level and Pete from SE usually made his own gadgets, that silver tube maybe part of the control for it.

As there are no dump valves, it'd be a good idea to stick a pair on tbh.

 

The filters they often used were known to be crap, measure the diameter of the connection pipe and source the same size neck filter from say apexi or K + N or similar.

 

You have no air flow meter either, so you either have a mappable aftermarket ECU and map sensor or again another gadget that allows no air flow meter.

Look under the passenger side carpet and the board underneath, show us a pic of the ECU thats there.

smithy

i think thats gotta be the first modded engine ive seen thats had extra pipework and crazy added under the bonnet very interesting though. does it run atm?

 

You have no air flow meter either, so you either have a mappable aftermarket ECU and map sensor or again another gadget that allows no air flow meter.

 

 

 

This is what jumped out straight away at me, if the MAF has been removed but no MAP sensor/programmable engine management fitted (along with no recirc's/bov's) then wouldn't that go some way to explain why it potentially is a non-runner?

car would start with no recircs and no MAF.

However by the design of the induction kit he has, it's not meant to have a MAF.

I am of course assuming it was a runner previously whilst set up as it is.

 

smithy

I made the assumption that it starts, however without a MAF/re-circs fitted wouldn't it just cough, splutter and cut out (if moved/rev'd obviously)?

Nope it will drive and just behave in the same way any other zed does with a maf problem, ie: rev upto 2.5K and splutter after 2.5k.

A missing MAF to the ECU is the same a faulty MAF.

 

No recics or dump valves required to drive the car and the car would not behave differently either, they are there solely to improve the turbo's performance and prevent turbo lag and protect the turbo's internals from surge or stall.

 

Next step is deffo show us a pic of his ECU and have a conzult plugged in to see what various OEM sensors are saying.

 

Having had SE Nissans extra injectors fitted to another Nissan i used to own, i can't recall if the car ran like shite or wouldn't run at all when the extra injector system developed a fault, though i do think the latter.

smithy

Both UK and Japs have Oil coolers as standard. The UK has a 19row 235mm oil cooler, The Jap has a much smaller cooler as standard, which is pretty inefficient. They are both mounted in front of the radiator under the nose pabel. The UK cooler or a similar cooler is a great upgrade to the stock Jap setup.

 

Thanks, i'll go and have a look and see if mine in actually an upgrade on the UK version.

 

Looks like this car has had some serious SE Nissan work done to it as they used to do all the odd things you have.

 

The extra injectors usually worked off a certain boost level and Pete from SE usually made his own gadgets, that silver tube maybe part of the control for it.

As there are no dump valves, it'd be a good idea to stick a pair on tbh.

 

The filters they often used were known to be crap, measure the diameter of the connection pipe and source the same size neck filter from say apexi or K + N or similar.

 

You have no air flow meter either, so you either have a mappable aftermarket ECU and map sensor or again another gadget that allows no air flow meter.

Look under the passenger side carpet and the board underneath, show us a pic of the ECU thats there.

smithy

 

What is SE Nissan? The car was imported as it is from Japan. I remember the previous owner posting to say he took it to Jeff and he recommended he did not put dump valves on it, not sure of the reason though.

 

Yeah there is an aftermarket ECU in there I saw it yesterday but didn't have time to get a picture, I think it's an HKS, will take a photo after lunch.

 

i think thats gotta be the first modded engine ive seen thats had extra pipework and crazy added under the bonnet very interesting though. does it run atm?

Nope, complete non-runner. Jeff had a look at it when the previous owner took it there. He said that the previous owner had removed the battery at some point and yanked a cable that had set the fuelling running on overtime which resulted in the sump being flooded with fuel and thinning the oil. By the time it got to the garage there was water in at least one of the cylinders as well.

 

Nope it will drive and just behave in the same way any other zed does with a maf problem, ie: rev upto 2.5K and splutter after 2.5k.

A missing MAF to the ECU is the same a faulty MAF.

 

No recics or dump valves required to drive the car and the car would not behave differently either, they are there solely to improve the turbo's performance and prevent turbo lag and protect the turbo's internals from surge or stall.

 

Next step is deffo show us a pic of his ECU and have a conzult plugged in to see what various OEM sensors are saying.

 

Having had SE Nissans extra injectors fitted to another Nissan i used to own, i can't recall if the car ran like shite or wouldn't run at all when the extra injector system developed a fault, though i do think the latter.

smithy

 

The car was running fine and produced 450+bhp before the overfuelling problem.

 

Jeff plugged Conzult in, I can't remember exactly what he said but basically it wasn't normal.

 

There is a control unit for the injectors inside that consists of two dials, i'll post up picks soon.

 

My most likely course of action will be to remove the extra injectors in the intake and add some 555's but not sure yet.

 

Thanks for all the replies everyone, all the effort is appreciated :thumbup:

Thanks, i'll go and have a look and see if mine in actually an upgrade on the UK version.

 

 

 

What is SE Nissan? The car was imported as it is from Japan. I remember the previous owner posting to say he took it to Jeff and he recommended he did not put dump valves on it, not sure of the reason though.

 

Yeah there is an aftermarket ECU in there I saw it yesterday but didn't have time to get a picture, I think it's an HKS, will take a photo after lunch.

 

 

Nope, complete non-runner. Jeff had a look at it when the previous owner took it there. He said that the previous owner had removed the battery at some point and yanked a cable that had set the fuelling running on overtime which resulted in the sump being flooded with fuel and thinning the oil. By the time it got to the garage there was water in at least one of the cylinders as well.

 

 

 

The car was running fine and produced 450+bhp before the overfuelling problem.

 

Jeff plugged Conzult in, I can't remember exactly what he said but basically it wasn't normal.

 

There is a control unit for the injectors inside that consists of two dials, i'll post up picks soon.

 

My most likely course of action will be to remove the extra injectors in the intake and add some 555's but not sure yet.

 

Thanks for all the replies everyone, all the effort is appreciated :thumbup:

 

whats your course of action other than 555 injectors? if its non running and water was mixing (as per the last owners post by jeff) you are either going to need to rebuild the engine or replace it.

yeah i was thinking that aswel ian, looks like your gonn abe starting from fresh under there.

Fuel ECU?

 

 

Greddy - Remic Type 2 Injection controller

 

HICAS lock. Don't see the point in this as there is no pump in the engine bay

 

This unit is hidden under the fuel ECU, so im guessing its the main ECU?

 

This unit was sitting in the passenger footwell.

 

Control units in dash: Top one is the Injection controller, bottom is an HKS Vein Pressure Converter which im presuming is to control the injectors. Don't know what the red button does. Blue button turns the electric fan in the engine bay on.

 

 

Jeff and Jimmer both recommended ditching the extra injectors and going for bigger ones for each cylinder as its easier to set up.

 

I have no definate plans for the rest, all depends on when I start it, how much money I have and what's available at the time. Like you said to me Ian the first job is to pull the engine then assess the extent of the damage and see if any parts are salvageable. I'll take it from there with what to do but want to know how its currently set-up so when it comes to removing parts I know what I have, what to keep and what to ditch. All opinions/suggestions are welcome. My ideal plan is a rebuilt engine by Jimmer with 555 Deutchworks injectors, my IHI turbo's rebuilt then a trip up to Jeff for a health check and to make sure its running/fuelling ok:thumbup: but thats BIG money so will probably have to compromise. Engine transplant by Jeff is the easiest option but that involves very little work by me and the availability of an engine from him when I go to do it. So another option is to get an engine and do it myself etc etc, the possibilities are endless!

This seems like a really interesting zed that you've got. I'm not sure how the HICAS works on later models with the electronic HICAS rather than the hydraulic setup of the earlier zeds, maybe the Tomei unit has something to do with that?

 

What year is it mate?

This seems like a really interesting zed that you've got. I'm not sure how the HICAS works on later models with the electronic HICAS rather than the hydraulic setup of the earlier zeds, maybe the Tomei unit has something to do with that?

 

What year is it mate?

 

TBH this is a big learning curve for me on everything, from learning the differences between models, to standard and aftermarket parts so have no idea on that either. It's a 1991 JDM SWB

Ok that shows some light on things, but not all your pics loaded?

 

The HKS VPC explains no air flow meter as it replaces it, the ECU is standard but with god knows what wired into it!

 

Look out for a standard cheap engine, do a simple swap over and get the car running then. That leaves you to open yours up and do whatever you like over how long you like too.

well thats what i'd do lol

smithy