After taking his engine out and putting the new one in, hes got a slight problem, his power steering isn't working, he removed the pump when changing the engine, but now is not getting any noise from the solenoid on the steering rack.

 

And his pump is making the noise like its got an air lock. any ideas? it was working fine before the engine came out.

Did you sell him the engine? Probably from a micra!

Did you sell him the engine? Probably from a micra!

 

naa its the one he built, i sold the micra engine to........cant remember his name now, but he thinks its quick as stink and says hes impressed with the amount of deletes i did, hes now got loads of room to work with in the engine bay.

Sweet!

Isn't the way to bleed the air to keep turning the steering wheel left/right to full lock?

This is likely a daft idea but if you could push the airlock through with another pump,

i'd take the resovoir off and attach a pump used for fish tanks or so that power from 12v.

 

A pc water cooling pump and hose attachments could do the job just as easy.

Yep ive tried that, but im not getting a solenoid or the usual noise on full lock, ive checked the plug and ps ecu i havent done anything to it apart from swap it to another engine.

jack the front up turn the wheels full lock about six times side to side

think groover is believing that when he turns the steering wheel, its not activating the power-steering pump

 

i think its still got an air lock though, ive never heard my power-steering solenoid. but then im not at his car lol. im just relaying messages - edit, nevermind hes back online lol

The pump is turning, and the solenoid connects to a power steering ecu in the footwell, which ive checked the connections, i may have to get the meter out for this one

im checking the service manual at the moment, but nothing just yet.

assuming that the pump was working and that you havent take it apart, it sounds like an air lock, if the pulley is rotating it should be working. ive just had the same issue, i had taken it apart and put the internals in 180 degrees out seriously easy to do.... i jacked the front up makes it easier then worked from lock to lock with the engine off, cap off and filter out of the pot. you will see loads of air come up when going from lock to lock. then once tahts stopped fire it up and carry on till no more comes out an assisant makes life easier. other than that you have the solenoid and the electrical system taht controls that. very frustraing isnt it. and youve def put in auto trans fluid not just normal powered steering fluid? probally teaching you to suck eggs.

can take ages btw.

Does sound like an airlock, thought I'd done mine but the pump was making a sucking noise when I turned the wheel. It just needed the fluid topping up, burping then topping up some more. etc..

Yep auto trans fluid in, will keep trying for air. Im guessing that the solenoid maybe wont activate properly until the correct pressure is achieved without any air

you may have already done this but have you checked to see if the system is sucking in air from the connections long shot I know but bet its something simply

Well ive bled it for over an hour and did get lots of air out, but still no power steering, ive had enough for tonight going to hit it in the morning with a fresh head on lol

got a feeling its something simple you have missed. you could still bring it up, just watch out with the steering at slow speeds (had to drive my N/A with no power steering due to the leak it had, would empty faster than you could fill it) lol

The steering alone wouldnt be an issue driving, its the slightly rough running, it feels like its holding back, slightly misfiring. Going to have another swot up tonight and hit it in the morning and see how i get on. I dont want to cause any unnecessary damage by driving it that distance.

The steering alone wouldnt be an issue driving, its the slightly rough running, it feels like its holding back, slightly misfiring. Going to have another swot up tonight and hit it in the morning and see how i get on. I dont want to cause any unnecessary damage by driving it that distance.

 

Things to check.

 

throttle closed position

tps

icv

vac pipes

injectors

Coilpacks

PTU connector

CAS connector

MAF connector

Water temp sensor, even if you have a aftermarket you still need the one on the intake pipe at the front.

 

also check to make sure the Plenum is on correctly as a leak at the gasket might also cause rough running. again at the balance bar with the O rings

 

check the pipe that goes from the balance bar to the ICV isnt kinked

 

Have you done the timing yet using a timing light at the CAS?

 

Also make sure the vac pipe going to the passenger side throttlw body is connected as i missed this on my N/A and the idle was rough as old houses and hunted sometimes as well.

Things to check.

 

throttle closed position

tps

icv

vac pipes

injectors

Coilpacks

PTU connector

CAS connector

MAF connector

Water temp sensor, even if you have a aftermarket you still need the one on the intake pipe at the front.

 

also check to make sure the Plenum is on correctly as a leak at the gasket might also cause rough running. again at the balance bar with the O rings

 

check the pipe that goes from the balance bar to the ICV isnt kinked

 

Have you done the timing yet using a timing light at the CAS?

 

Also make sure the vac pipe going to the passenger side throttlw body is connected as i missed this on my N/A and the idle was rough as old houses and hunted sometimes as well.

 

I did the throttle body balance and TPS setting before i put the engine in, but will check again.

PTU, MAF and CAS connectors are fine, havent timed it yet, i just raised the base idle as it was quite low.

 

Water temp sensor is a new Nissan one, i have re routed the wires, by cutting, solder and heatshrink, but again its something on my list to double check. Would be so much easier on consult or datascan lol

 

Have checked coil pack connectors, seem fine, i seem to have an intermittent wire problem on injector 1.

 

I may as well re check all connections, back to basics lol.

 

When i put the new timing belt on, i checked and triple checked the timing marks and like a saddo i even counted the ribs :biggrin:

 

Cas could be out but i didnt touch that,

 

Vac pipes are on both throttle bodies, i have deleted the carbon canister and PVR and taken a vac off the plenum to the fuel regulator.

I did the throttle body balance and TPS setting before i put the engine in, but will check again.

PTU, MAF and CAS connectors are fine, havent timed it yet, i just raised the base idle as it was quite low.

 

Water temp sensor is a new Nissan one, i have re routed the wires, by cutting, solder and heatshrink, but again its something on my list to double check. Would be so much easier on consult or datascan lol

 

Have checked coil pack connectors, seem fine, i seem to have an intermittent wire problem on injector 1.

 

I may as well re check all connections, back to basics lol.

 

When i put the new timing belt on, i checked and triple checked the timing marks and like a saddo i even counted the ribs :biggrin:

 

Cas could be out but i didnt touch that,

 

Vac pipes are on both throttle bodies, i have deleted the carbon canister and PVR and taken a vac off the plenum to the fuel regulator.

 

thats the bloody problem when you start cutting wires and resoldering, you never know if its done until testing it when its all back together, though did you do it with your old engine in and test as you went along?

No didnt cut any wires for the old engine, i just extended the wires for the temp sensors so the wires dont have to run across the front of the cam cover.

 

One thing i wish i had done, was left the new injector loom in place and spent a few hours wiring those in, but to save time for the minute to get it going i took them off and re used the old loom, so may have a brittle connection on one injector.

It idles relatively smoothly, but sounds like a beetle when you give it a bit of gas lol