Ok New engine after it blowing up

 

Check all timing and all aligns up

0 on crank and all cam Markers on the back plate align

 

New injectors

New Injector plugs

New Plugs

tryed 2 lots of coil packs

even my old injectors

 

when i can get the engine running its sounds nice ( engine )

no knock/bangs/taps

Oil Pressure is right about middle on ide>2k

 

the engine will not go past 3k as it dies out

 

the miss fire is mainly on the passenger side bank

 

does any one know where the wires normaly brake or

know of a good Loom thay no longer need

 

Please help

Hope it does matey, sounds like it should....

These ECU's are quite robust, assuming it is your original ECU and not your chip or the fitting of your chip that was the main cause of your problems.

 

Once you have fitted andyp's ECU, send yours to him as he can test it and test the chip too, i would expect anyways lol

 

Smithy

the ECU was duff before i even tuched it ... i didnt know that at the time tho

if u read fromt he beginning

i couldnt get the car to start with standard injectors on the original ECU at the time wasnt even thinking it was faulty who would like u said there robust

but after changing all stuff and getting new injectors thinking it was my old injectors playing up .. and having to wait for new pipes and stuff i couldnt start car or test it ...

 

so thinking there wasnt anything wrong i chipped the ECU

hence still didnt start

but all the problems i have had to looks of it was a ECU that must of blown when i tuck the engine out in the first place ...

 

Mark

I've read this so many times lol some 1 liners make it so confusing.

 

I've understood car ran perfectly fine until engine blew, you fitted another ( or part off) and fitted the ancillaries.

Car wouldn't start.

You then went through various processess of checking things and chipping the ECU with bigger injectors.

 

At no time you mention doing a basic diagnostic ECU check which is a godsend to any running problems.

 

The ECU when faulty certainly lets you know, however usually it will in nearly all cases actually start.

When it does it runs bad, usually a number of dash lights come on and stay on, the sub fan kicks in also.

After the CAS has told the ECU it's at TDC the ECU sends a signal through the fuel pump circuit to make a full circuit back again, this part can blow and car will not start, no dash lights and no sub fan, however you can bypass it by jumping the circuit in the drivers side footwell Green relay.

 

When fitting chips it is so easy to make a wee boo boo without even knowing it, hence why many chip suppliers only gaurantee their chips if they fit them.

When this happens, engine starts but wont run properly and serious over fuels and usually dash warning lights.

 

Point am making is all the various things you checked or changed before could have repaired the fault, but now due to simply a corrupt chip, your back to sqaure one.

Definately have Andy check your ECU and chip seperately, so you know for sure.

smithy

Well saying that all the lights on dash was on but thought that was normal untill engine starts propers...

But the engine wouldnt run for 20sec at any given time... carnt say i noticed the fan...

 

But me chipping the ecu didnt kill it as it never changed simptons