please i need help! my power steering pump leaks and need to change! tnx to andy ive got a second hand pump but how hard to change the pump ?

if not can any one recommend some one around epsom (surrey) to change my pst pump (some one who knows about 300zx)

 

07737257228

nash

Silverbullet (Mark) is in your area, thezedfactory@hotmail.co.uk

this in an area i really nee dto get on with. its just hard to see how to reach the area.

Theres a write up here http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=74259&highlight=power+steering+pump

thats really usefull that link however i did realise when looking through the pics... its an na. please tell me i wouldnt hav eto remove the flexiable hose that goes from the intercooler to the turbo front.

thanks groover mark allready contacted ! thanks a lot ! :)

thats really usefull that link however i did realise when looking through the pics... its an na. please tell me i wouldnt hav eto remove the flexiable hose that goes from the intercooler to the turbo front.

 

Unfortunately yes mate: if you can get to it from under the car, then you might not need steps 2-6

 

To remove / inspect PAS pump and hoses (with the car on ramps),

 

NB Right and left referenced as if sat in the car (opposite to looking in the bonnet)

 

1/ Remove two air ducts from right hand intercooler

2/ Loosen bottom radiator hose and drain the coolant.

3/ Disconnect all hoses from radiator (two large, one small)

4/ Under the fan shroud is a flap which can be undone so the shroud clears the fan when you pull it out, loosen this (three snap type fixings)

5/ Loosen two top radiator straps and spin out of the way.

6/ Lift out radiator.

7/ Crack open the power steering union under the car near the rack and drain PAS fluid.

8/ Loosen pump belt tensioner (one bolt accessed from engine bay to free mechanism, than wind back the long bolt from underneath the car. This probably won’t appear to slacken the belt but you need the slack in this later on).

9/ Disconnect the high pressure PAS line from the pump. This is the one from the pump to the rack, you’ll need a 24mm socket for this. There are copper washers either side of the banjo (the end fitting crimped on to the hose). Don’t drop one, it’ll take ages to find!!

10/ Disconnect the hose form the fluid reservoir to the pump. I found it easiest to undo the jubilee clip at the reservoir as the pump end of the hose is really difficult to access.

11/ Disconnect the hose form the pump to the valve. Again this was easier to remove from the HICAS valve then the pump so that is what I did.

12/ Rotate the pully around until you can see the head of the pump retaining bolt (14mm socket should get in there). Remove the bolt.

13/ If the tensioiner is loose enough you should be able to swing the pump towards the centre of the car and remove the belt. In reality it won’t be. This is the bit that held me up as the pump on my car would not budge. I had to complete steps 14 & 15 (remove the pully and then the tensioner mechanism) before I got the pump to wiggle free).

14/ Remove the pully. You don’t have to do this but it is easier to do in the car if you want to. If the pully spins when you go to loosen the nut then use the belt to hold the pully still by squeezing it together.

15/ 4 bolts hold the tensioner mechanism on to the pup and the engine. Two are near the pump shaft and the other two hold the tensioner to the engine and are easy to spot. Remove these 4 and the tensioner.

16/ Now everything is ready for the pump removal. I thought I’d left a bolt in holding the pump on, but it was just really really stiff. I ended up using a breaker bar between the pump and the engine to ‘encourage’ the pump free. If you do this be VERY careful and don’t blame me if you damage something.

17/ Breath a sigh of relief that after 3 nights of battling with the car you’ve finally got the pump out when all it needed was a jubilee clip tightening.

18/ Close the bonnet and leave it till tomorrow.

19/ Go and get drunk. :duffer:

 

Oh yeah, fitting is the reverse of removal.