Ok ive had a look through a few searches and not really found everything i need. Ive had a quote of bodywork repairs and the guy said to me if you like tinkering with cars why dont you do it yourself and i thought what a great idea it would add more to my talents so what im looking at is trying to get all the equipment at the best prices but also the required quality for a good job.

 

I dont have a compressor yet so i thought thats a good place to start then paint guns one for laquer and one for the paint as recommended to me tonight.

 

I know there is a few people that do paint spraying on here so your help would be appreciated. Not looking at spraying whole cars maybe up to the size of a bumper say.

 

Cheers folks

 

Marty

er...4

Point is, Understand what you need, buying an expensive compressor may not give you what you require in pressure/displacement.

no mate , it will blow up after afew goes , ive gota a clarke and its lasted donkeys , buy cheap and buy twice is my motto !!!!

Hes just starting out on doing small jobs for himself,theres no point in him splashing out on ££££ on equipment,, he may never get the knack of spraying?I dont know Gonzo mate -you might be better than me someday lol!,but for the moment,start small is my opinion.A(what i would call decent) workshop compressor will set you back 5-£600 starting price,but you can get something suitable much much cheaper and get the results you want.airfed masks are £150+,filter/regulators are £30+,guns £25++,airlines£15+,its not cheap,thats before you buy 2k paint /activators/primers/lacquers etc etc.Most guns these days have stainless tips and needles,so they are suitable for waterbased paints,but waterbased paint is a PITA to use at home,it needs air movement to dry,and blowing air in a home spray enviroment is usually a no-no because of contaminants being blown up and settleing in the paint.Theres nothing nicer than dust and grit trapped forever under a shiney coat of new clear.Cellulose is easy to use,but harder to find and nowadays,even if you find a supplier of celly,alot of modern colours arent availiable in it so it will be basecoat or 2k youll be using,and its dangerous stuff,its a killer,most masks you can buy dont stop the poison getting into your body,thats why we wear an airfed mask,it goes in through your skin even,so be carefull.But ,for small parts,like a wing,in a well vented place,youll get it done.Buy the basics and see if its your thing,then you can upgrade.

very good words cheers i am am trying to make it out to be a business just for my own small uses. Was speaking with a guy that came round last night and he said everyone has gone away from 2k paint and are using water based which may be harder to spray but when looking at the rest of the equipment seems cheaper.

 

Thanks for all the advise i think i know the way to go now and also i dont believe for one second a compressor will blow up after a couple of uses. My motto is also buy cheap buy twice however when you look at the figures i think it looks like a good buy and enough for what i need as i will use it this once and maybe again in a few months not everyday

no mate , it will blow up after afew goes , ive gota a clarke and its lasted donkeys , buy cheap and buy twice is my motto !!!!

 

Ken, are you sure thats your motto....:oops: (i know what you really mean, Buy cheap and you will buy twice!)

 

Fact is i've been using one of those "crap" compressors and i've had good results out of it, it gives me what i need at the business end for my HVLP guns, (7-9CFM and 10-25 psi,) As someone has said, preparation is the key, roughly 75% prep, 25% painting.

 

Rich

no mate , it will blow up after afew goes , ive gota a clarke and its lasted donkeys , buy cheap and buy twice is my motto !!!!

 

Well my Aldi "crap" compressor has been doing me stirling service for the last 3 years and still is !!.

i know what your saying about getting the best but if it,s only for small diy jobs a cheaper set up would do fine , if anyones looking at wanting to go into spraying in a big way then yes you,ll need bigger and better .

I was probably being abit dramatic , but there still crap imo , for the sake of buying a good 3hp clarke for 200 quid or even cheaper for a 2nd hand one then why not pay for something that you will keep for years to come, and not have to "worry" about using it to much !!!!!!

 

 

what is wrong with buying good tools ?? its like telling people on here not top buy snap on spanners !!

 

i am not debating that it wont do the job , the finish is not in your compressor. the finish is all in your prep work and is definatly in the gun but lets not go into that .

 

Im not a twonk , you will get to know my paint jobs as we go :)

 

 

i would set up like this .

 

gun 2nd hand devilbiss gti £100 £150

 

compressor 2nd hand £150

 

airline will probably come with compressor .

 

airfed or good compliant 2k mask for well ventilated use £18

It may be considered crap, but you show me a 24L compressor that puts out 9.5CFM, whatever the price.

 

Rich

 

tell me this after 20 hours service time....the Aldi range of comps have pumps made from silver coloured chocklate..the 24L is only the storage of air which for painting is not enough anyway and the 9.5cfm is peak and and its all down hill from the checkout till as the pumps and cranks are not re-biuldable:no:

Well my Aldi "crap" compressor has been doing me stirling service for the last 3 years and still is !!. i know what your saying about getting the best but if it,s only for small diy jobs a cheaper set up would do fine , if anyones looking at wanting to go into spraying in a big way then yes you,ll need bigger and better .

 

there not the same these days mate...much poorer

Marty, you can borrow mine for a while and have a go, see if its okay, might save you splashing out some dosh twice..

 

Rich

Ken

Whilst i applaud your motto. :confused1: financial limitations have made me look for value...BUT, i would really like to own one of these...

dam not being able to edit posts ha ha ah

 

yeah thats the one i am talking about mate , the one before that model is good aswell ( just the gti) the sata is absolutly amazing but would suck the air straight out of most even good ( not aldi) compressors ha ha ha .

Bergen tools make a sata copy and its cock on.A prof painter mate of mine compared the two and said it was well worth the £25 i paid.

heres a little walk through i did years ago for home diy use if this helps , using 2k by the way >

 

repair area

 

 

 

 

primed and blocked down the grades

 

 

blowing this into the bumper up2 this line then it will be buffed in , so be carefull to not get any base coat ( the blue near it as you can only buff clear coat in !!

 

 

 

i always spray at 2 bar but everyone is different ,

 

 

use panel degreaser then a tack rag between stages .

 

 

 

first coat of base coat ( mix is 2 ;1 with thinners )

 

 

and continue putting coats on untill covered , better going lite to avoid paint crazing

 

 

then when dry tack rag again for the final time ,

 

and clearcoat

 

mix 2;1 with a mixing stick

 

 

and appy clear , for outside drying a dust coat first and then a wet coat when is tacking off is fine , also use a shot of what they call rocket in the laquer to aid drying times .

 

 

finished

 

 

 

then flat and polish ofcourse and you will need to do plently of it outside as there is plenty of dust in the air ..

 

if you want an out the gun finish then rent an oven like i do :)

 

 

Ok kenztwinturbo by the looks of it you have been a great help even though i have only seen the first vid. I think by this i can get the gear i need and have a good crack. From what i have been told everyone is using celluse paint now any link to this for me? Would rather use this as recommended by the bodywork guy that came round than more money on equipment.

 

Rich i will be round to pick your brain as i know you are experienced in this

 

Marty

 

oh to add alot of the terminology you use i dont understand as im a mechanic not a panel beater :(

Edited March 25, 201114 yr by Gonzo12c

heres a little walk through i did years ago for home diy use if this helps , using 2k by the way >

 

blowing this into the bumper up2 this line then it will be buffed in , so be carefull to not get any base coat ( the blue near it as you can only buff clear coat in !!

 

 

*takes on board :)

So how much past the base coat do you laquer to seal ?

Presumably a similar technique is used to repair peeled laquer too ?

 

Sorry to but-in on the thread Marty, but questions may also be useful for you to know too ;)

not sure what you asking , but u can just paint the whole lot but on things were there is hard edges and inconspicous areas tyouy can buff it in , but it needs to be far away enough from the repair area so that you dont getany colour base coat near the line . then flick your laquer into that lifted masking area . dont just hammer loads of paint over the blow in line or it wont buff in . FLICK IT :)

Ok kenztwinturbo by the looks of it you have been a great help even though i have only seen the first vid. I think by this i can get the gear i need and have a good crack. From what i have been told everyone is using celluse paint now any link to this for me? Would rather use this as recommended by the bodywork guy that came round than more money on equipment.

 

Rich i will be round to pick your brain as i know you are experienced in this

 

Marty

 

oh to add alot of the terminology you use i dont understand as im a mechanic not a panel beater :(

 

Not many will be using celluse now mate unless there cavemen , but you may have been told this by one of them chipsaway smart repair van fellas , they use it and thats how they keep there prices down . 2k does the work for you , celly needs buffing to feck to get a good finish and then fades and goes dull .

Ken

 

I agree 2K paint is Dam good sh$t, carcinogenic, but good nevertheless. However, the kit you need to use it is vast, its all very well using a full air mask for yourself, but what about the over-spray, it needs to be extracted somehow, and not to the outside otherwise your neighbours will be dropping like flies. You have a duty to ensure your safety as well as everybody's else's. With Celly you dont need much safety, a carbon mask will do.. plus a lot of work to get a good finish.

 

I dont know if you spray for a living so have all the facilities for 2K (i'm sure you know water based paints are to becoming the norm) but us part time sprayers probably cant financially justify going down the 2K route or the water based one, and if people use it without protection, then they're doing themselves no end of harm, harm that doesn't show up until years later. Celly paint is still around even though they shouldn't sell it, so thats what i use.

 

Great vids by the way, shows technique which is hard to describe.

 

Rich

ps i think we've posted this to death now, so i'll let you have the last word..

not sure what you asking , but u can just paint the whole lot but on things were there is hard edges and inconspicous areas tyouy can buff it in , but it needs to be far away enough from the repair area so that you dont getany colour base coat near the line . then flick your laquer into that lifted masking area . dont just hammer loads of paint over the blow in line or it wont buff in . FLICK IT :)

 

Yeah, I didn't explain it well ... I'll try a different way of asking :)

Whats the technique for blending the base and clearcoat in areas without a hard panel line ?

intresting thread guys:cool3:...and by the looks our street tearaway Ken seems to be a very good painter and knows his stuff, so fair doo's we'll let him stick around me thinks:tt2: