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Hey guys,

 

I'm gonna be looking at buying a 300zx probably this weekend after selling my Celica ST205 but I have a few questions before I buy ;)

 

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1531897.htm

 

This is the zed i'm looking at!

 

One of the seats has been replaced by a recaro, so I was wondering how much either another recaro that is similar is going to be, or how much does a standard seat go for these days? Not sure if it's electric or standard, though.

 

Also, currently it has 235's on the back and i'm not sure that's gonna be enough for decent grip. Would you easily be able to put 245's on there? I'm not sure what the alloy measurements are but I have asked so hopefully i'll have them soon.

 

Also, clock/speedo still reads in kmh. Is it easy to do a conversion?

 

Thanks!

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hiya mate .

firstly congrats on choosing a zed .

your pic dosent show which seat has gone but im guessing its the drivers seat bolster thats gone . just like most zeds . you have 2 chances of finding a good 1 . slim and none , and slims out of town

235 on the back is a bit narrow . you can get away with them but ideally you want 265 /275.

the speedo thing is a good sign as it meens its still limited . not been thrashed . only costs £25 for the converter and will take about an hour to do . easy job

good luck

andy

245 is skinny as hell as well for the rear. I have those up front on mine. You need to know the wheel width before you start fitting wider tyres. TBH, it might be worth your while getting a new wheel/tire package. Would make the car look a lot nicer.

 

Easiest conversion for the clocks is to buy a set of UK clocks. You can fit a converter that alters the clocks, but the HICAS will be out of step then unless you're gonna disable it.

  • Author

Awesome, I was looking at getting a new set of alloys for it anyway, and was considering 265/245. It was just gonna be a temporary measure until I found the set I was looking for.

 

Any idea where a good place to get UK clocks would be? Are they hard to install?

Bolt on. Contact Zedworld.

 

Go for 275 rears (on a 9.5" wide wheel). Like mine. :)

Stick up a wanted thread. There will be loads of clocks about on breakers etc.

 

In fact i have a spare set as I'm swapping mine over as on cold mornings it takes a few slaps on the dashboard to get the needle working (sign of a dry joint which needs re-soldering - but cant find it) If you still need one after the 18th of May you can have my old one.

 

Have a look in the for sale section - some dude has a really cheap set of 17 inch 5 spokes for sale - perfect if it is just an "inbetween" thing while you find the perfect wheels.

 

Anyway welcome to the club and enjoy your new toy.

Looks nice, whats up with the Mines ECU?? What happened to purchasing the black one? Or did that fall through?

Fuel mapping could be an aggressive one. To save the engine, it's worth popping in another known chip.

Ah! My old one had a Mines chip in it, might account for its "reasonable" performance LOL

Chip won't really alter the performance. Merely different maps for different levels of boost and/or injector size.

  • Author

Apparently according to the owner the ECU it doesn't have a very agressive mapping and it's MPG/Performance is basically unaltered!

 

The black one didn't go through, I just saw the white one and thought it'd be nice to check out/buy if it's nice on inspection ;)

Like I said, a different fuel map won't have any real effect on performance. Unless he spec'd the ECU and knows what map is on it, the owner will have absolutely no idea how aggressive the map actually is.

  • Author

Fair enough!

 

I'll get it sorted in the next couple of months ;) Will be a bit skint after a new car purchase! Haha

Yeah I'm going to agree with FunkySi here - having an unknown chip (or any ecu signal-altering device) is worth replacing for something that you know matches engine spec. I had an Apexi VAFC in my old prelude bb4, and though it was quick, vtec was rough, there was a tendancy to missfire when you put the foot down for a few seconds and generally running wasn't great. I replaced it for a specificially designed sleepy chip and the difference was night and day - smooth running, smooth vtec, delimited, revs raised a little. Was perfect!

 

I'm just waiting on my John Dixon ECU arriving :D:D:D

Easy mate,

 

You may remember me from birmingham, I was the one waiting for hours to look at that rough running piece of sh...

 

Just been and looked at the car today. The good news is, its in great nick. The bad news is it didnt leave the factory with a tt motor in it.

 

I had the cash in my pocket and was pretty much ready to hand it over, but the lack of bosst gauge got me suspicious. On closer inspection the tailgate doesnt have the TT logo either. Call me Sherlock but I put 2 and 2 together and got 4. The chassis plate has the right codes on it but I dont know where the other V.I.N plate is located. My guess is it started life as a N/A.

 

Which raises a few questions.

 

Firstly, in 5th it was pulling 25mph per 1000 revs, so hyperthetically this means it will hit the rev limiter at 165. I was under the impression a tt should be able to reach 180+, power permitting.

 

Not only will this result in poor fuel economy, but also will the N/A gearbox cope with the extra torque from the TT motor?

 

Also, what about brakes? Are these smaller on the N/A compared to the TT?

 

Finally, looks like a previous owner had problems earthing the new/modified wiring loom, as all earths return to the battery. While I was test driving it there was a singing smell that lasted about 3mins. My guess is something arced behind the dash and melted some rubber somewhere.

 

Not tryin to put you off, but I walked away for those reasons and was just about to post a thread asking for advice when i saw this...

 

So, best of look with the hunt (you and me both brother) but maybe some more experienced members can advise us novices befor we buy a financial black hole to pour money into....

 

Thanks all, help apppreciated, sorry for hi-jacking your thread...:huh:

Call me Sherlock?

 

Call me stupid. Take it you saw the black one and came to a similar conclusion. Take it you bought the white one?

 

Hope its agood en.

 

Best of luck fella, hopefully wont be far behind you.. I sold my skyline this weekend and dont have a car now! Travelled to scotland by train. EEEEWWW.

Bearing a few things in mind from most of the points above you cannot say wether the car started life as a TT or an NA.

 

The gearboxes are the same apart from the bellhousing is a little different but the internals are the same. The only different is the NA rear end (which is very desirable as it makes the car alot faster), so if had an NA rear end, brilliant!

 

The Brakes are the same on almost all cars, although earlier NA's 89-91 (IIRC) did have slightly narrower disks although only by 2mm

 

94+ TT's did NOT have a boost gauge (mine on a 95 doesnt, although I believe the 99 cars got it back again)

 

The best way to tell if a car started out life as a TT or not is of course from its vin plate, if your still not sure ONLY turbos had HICAS (although I admit most have had it disabled few have had the actual hardware removed)

 

Also you can never rely on the stock gauges to be accurate for revs or speed...

 

 

Having said that, a butchered loom doesnt look good and unless there is good reason that can be explained by the owner then its probably not a good sign...

 

Lastly! Now I know why that car hasnt been sold! :D

Hey Quavey, what's this about the n/a rear end? Is the diff a different ratio? Is it still LSD or open? Does it really make a noticable difference in acceleration?

looks like a good one. I dont think they made a series 3 uk spec?? so clocks would be near impossible to find :(

Easy mate,

 

 

Which raises a few questions.

 

Firstly, in 5th it was pulling 25mph per 1000 revs, so hyperthetically this means it will hit the rev limiter at 165. I was under the impression a tt should be able to reach 180+, power permitting.

 

Not only will this result in poor fuel economy, but also will the N/A gearbox cope with the extra torque from the TT motor?

 

Also, what about brakes? Are these smaller on the N/A compared to the TT?

 

Finally, looks like a previous owner had problems earthing the new/modified wiring loom, as all earths return to the battery. While I was test driving it there was a singing smell that lasted about 3mins. My guess is something arced behind the dash and melted some rubber somewhere.

 

Not tryin to put you off, but I walked away for those reasons and was just about to post a thread asking for advice when i saw this...

 

So, best of look with the hunt (you and me both brother) but maybe some more experienced members can advise us novices befor we buy a financial black hole to pour money into....

 

Thanks all, help apppreciated, sorry for hi-jacking your thread...:huh:

 

Not sure which zed your talking about, the black or white

Zeds were limited to 155mph

Boost gauges were not used " i think after late 94" someone may claify. so don't always expect to see one in a zed

TT logo means nothing, many don't have any logos on

Earthing comments, there are numerous Zeds out there that had aftermarket earthing kits fitted and they all went back the battery, in a kinda loop, so that maybe what you seen??.

Both the black and white zeds had TT front bumpers on too.

 

So you may have walked away from summit in the wrong belief fella.

smithy

Hey Quavey, what's this about the n/a rear end? Is the diff a different ratio? Is it still LSD or open? Does it really make a noticable difference in acceleration?

 

its a popular upgrade i believe, and you end up with a top speed about 20mph less than the TT diff, not that it makes that much difference in top end but would certainly make acceleration snappier! They are both LSD.

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