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My constant smoking engine

Right i am completely baffled by this smoking business. i have searched here and there, on you tube, google. in the library, and even the archived sections. and so far not one post or anything has come close to describing what my smoking is like.

 

I'm still yet to get a compression tester done, but from what i know it could be one of 3 things.

 

1, PCV valves, but as I'm yet to get down to the car long enough to get them off and see if they are clogged. and that the pipe work is ok.

 

2, Head Gasket is on the way out. but no compression tester to check the compression on the cylinders.

 

3, Too much oil in the engine, though this is hard to tell as the dip stick doesnt seem to be very accurate.

 

Reason i have come to this conclusion is that my car smokes from cold from the moment you turn the key. it is white smoke, but thin, it smokes like its a cold day when idling, then if you give it a rev it boosts it out the back in a steady stream but dissipates rapidly even when the engine is up to temp and the exhaust is hot enough to be boiling all the condensation from it.

 

I have no oil contamination on my radiator, and i have no water contamination in my oil. and since fixing the water leak to turbo, i have no rad fluid loss

 

My car starts almost instantly, sits at around 1100 revs, then settles down to around 800 / 900 and feels very smooth.

 

The white smoke smells just like the engine is running a bit rich. It does not smell like coolent or burning oil or both.

 

From some very old JeffTT posts in the archives section (2002 posts lol) Jeff has posted quite a few times on peoples "my car is smoking" threads and suggested that it could be over filling with oil that causes it.

 

I also found a handy smoking diagnostic post, but again after reading through it, found that none of the symptoms sound like my car. and it suggests that to test turbo oil seals, to run the car for 20 mins (which i can not do as it has no MOT or TAX), then stop the engine, start the car again and let it idle for 5 mins and you should then get blue smoke out of the back? which doesnt happen anyway as its white, not blue

 

Does anyone have a compression tester they are willing to send me and ill send it back once I've tested my engine? and also a consultz cable or someone with consultz that can come and test my car?

 

Can failing cats also cause smoke? as my exhaust is rather old, id rather not go throwing loads of cash at things that are not wrong with it and would much rather get straight to the problem and the cause.

 

Sorry for the wall of text, but its getting to the point where I'm questioning whether to just break the car and sell it as parts and then buy a half decent one with the cash i get from doing it.

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One thing to consider is the lack of use the car is getting at the moment, once all road legal a long run maybe all it needs, runing at tick over with odd high revs provides no load to the engine, a long road run will help determine if you have an issue at all.

 

Jeff

you can't get in trouble for no road tax if it's booked In at an mot station and your driving it there. How far you goin for an mot ;). Give it a run. Would the car pass and would you be Ready to drive it if passed?.

  • Author

the last mot it had, had advisories but i have no idea what they are as the info is missing, i have no receipts for any work done since then (MOT ran out october 09), only before the MOT, so apart from the smoking issue, I'm sure it would pass but most probably with the same advisories, i know it going to need new bushes in a few places as some have started to perish, but i have checked and no wheel movement. I'm just worried ill do more damage to what ever it is, if i take it for a run on the way to the test, IE: HG.

Edited by vodkashots

  • Author
I think you can view the advisories here mate if that helps - http://motinfo.direct.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp

 

Your a star mate, thanks for the link, very handy to be honest.

 

Well from the looks of it, it failed the first time due to welding work that needed doing on the 22/10/08, from the time frame between that and the retest, id say the work was done at the MOT station, and then it passed on the 31/10/08 with these advisories.

 

Date of test:31/10/2008Certificate issued (Pass)

 

Odometer reading: 99,273 Miles (not far off what its reading now)

 

Test class: IV

Test expiry date :30/10/2009

 

Advisory Notice issued

 

Front Brake disc(s) slightly pitted (3.5.1h) (checked these they look fine?)

 

Rear Brake disc(s) slightly pitted (3.5.1h) (same as above)

 

Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a) (slight? lol heavy more like it, but its not blowing)

 

Offside Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.D.1) (Different wheels on it now)

 

Vehicle structure has slight corrosion (6.1.1) (Wing area near front wheel arches on both sides, have been crushed due to improper jack placement and has started to rust slightly)

 

Tank straps corroded (??? ill check again, but they looked fine when i was under it the other day)

Other than that, every thing looks ok tbh, so best option?

 

1. just book it for MOT, fill her up and take her for a good 20min drive before hand?

 

2. try and sort out the smoking problem first? and spend large amounts of cash that may or may not cure the problem.

 

3. break the car and get another one with the proceeds

Your a star mate, thanks for the link, very handy to be honest.

 

1. just book it for MOT, fill her up and take her for a good 20min drive before hand?

 

2. try and sort out the smoking problem first? and spend large amounts of cash that may or may not cure the problem.

 

3. break the car and get another one with the proceeds

 

No probs mate, handy link when viewing a car as well, just take a note of the numbers from paperwork and go check it out before committing to a purchase.

 

I'd go for option one, then even if you give up on it at least it has a certificate to let someone drive away in it if they purchase as whole car, if it fails then they at least have a failure sheet and know exactly what they are getting into.

  • Author
No probs mate, handy link when viewing a car as well, just take a note of the numbers from paperwork and go check it out before committing to a purchase.

 

I'd go for option one, then even if you give up on it at least it has a certificate to let someone drive away in it if they purchase as whole car, if it fails then they at least have a failure sheet and know exactly what they are getting into.

 

Right here is the plan lol

 

Going to get hold of a compression tester, do the checks, and see whats going on internally. if all is clear, Oil change and fill to correct level following JeffTT's advice on one of the older threads. (basically filling up to a little under the max mark on the dipstick), book it in for a MOT if all is well. and take it for a 20min run before hand and see what happens.

 

IF it passes even with advisories, throw a party for 2 months, and post every chance i get to say its got tax and Mot on it, and get on everyone's nerves about it..... :lol: (probably do that already mind you) if its still smoking then, change the PCV valves and pipe work. sort out the zorst. and change the turbos anyway.

 

If it fails the MOT, but doesnt fail on excessive smoking. track down what the cause is. and proceed from there. if it fails on excessive smoking take a long hard think about just breaking it. but that would be last resort.

Option 1 mate. Zedworld must be 20mins or more away? Could be the oil seals. Think ur getting the heavy smoke that my car had aswell after the engine was done. Uh may have already gone on one side?

cane its arse for 50 miles and report back...its either better and it needed "drying out" or its worse and the motor or tubs wants looking at:thumbup:

  • Author
cane its arse for 50 miles and report back...its either better and it needed "drying out" or its worse and the motor or tubs wants looking at:thumbup:

 

300zx + v6 TT engine + 20min run = more than 50 miles :whistling:

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