Hi all,

 

I'm having what appears to be a common problem, steering sometimes heavy, sometimes light, often 'notchy' around the central position. This is almost all the time now.

 

So far I've replaced the PS pump (PITA!) and fluid, checked the connections behind the instrument cluster (the km/mph convertor is soldered in, all connections look good and I've reinsulated), checked the PS solenoid connections (look fine), checked the speed sensor (looks fine according to Jeff's pics) and the sensor connector (no problems).

 

ECU has recently been reset. Car has been off the road for a couple of months, when I first got it running again the problem appeared to have been resolved, it's gradually getting worse again.

 

There are two potential clues:

1. There is a slight leak of PS fluid from somewhere near the solenoid, can't see exactly where as it's all pretty wet down there.

2. The speedo occasionally stops working, a tap on the dash can sometimes bring it back to life, this does not coincide with the steering problem.

 

What would logically be the next items to check? I spose fixing the leak would be the priority (?) although it's been leaking for years and the steering problem has only recently appeared.

 

Are the kmh/mph converters prone to internal problems?

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

H

As far as know mate, the kph/mph converters are prone to problems, that'd probably be the first thing i would change, they're pretty cheap too i think... HTH...

Common problem also are dry joints on the speedo circuit board, especially if you tap the dash and it works.

Power steering will be affected as the signal going to the ecu will be erratic, therefore causing the problems you describe.

Also worth taking of the convertor and try the speedo again, although it will read in km, you can at least eliminate the convertor from the chain.

HTH

well said groover....

Hmm..cheers for that. I guess the cluster will have to come out again :-(. I think it's feeling too heavy at idle and low speed, although it's hard to remember what it should feel like, logically this would indicate overestimating the speed wouldn't it??

 

The speedo circuit board is inside the cluster casing? Just want to be sure before I go dismantling things that I don't need to dismantle ;-)

 

Cheers

 

H

Sometimes with a dodgy speedo convertor, it wont register sometimes till after 20mph, if the ecu is receiving an intermittent signal, then speed sometimes doesnt come into it.

The power steering can feel heavy one minute, shake the wheel and its back if you have a dry joint on the pcb it can be affected by temperatures, ie contract and expand, so in essence probably works better when the inside cabin temp is warm.

The other option is do run a wire from the ecu in the footwell direct to the speedo, as you may have a brittle feed in the loom.

 

The pcb is attached to the speedo clock, so undo the 6 screws( 3boost + 3speedo)and the clock will come out.

 

As i mentioned in the previous post, try disconnecting the speed convertor and see if the speedo works as it did.

Ok, thanks. I've tried both of these but without improvement. I'm starting to suspect the PS solenoid. Is there any way to test this or is it just a case of 'swap it and see'?

 

Cheers

 

H

Ok, thanks. I've tried both of these but without improvement. I'm starting to suspect the PS solenoid. Is there any way to test this or is it just a case of 'swap it and see'?

 

Cheers

 

H

 

cant remember now but if the PS solenoid has a code then your wellcome to plug into my conzult and we can have a gander..ime only down the road in bromborough wirral:cool3:

didnt think the power steering was controlled/efected by anything electrical,

 

 

just thaught it was all mechanically operated only?

 

 

my power steering is anoying as hell, but think my pump is dead (alternate post on here)

Well I got a spare pump now if you need one ;-)

 

I think the PS pump is the least likely suspect in a chain of electrical and hydraulic weak spots!

 

Znut, thanks for your kind offer, I have something similar to Consult myself but can only see that the switch is operating as it should be - don't know if yours can tell you anything more useful??

 

Cheers

 

H

Well I got a spare pump now if you need one ;-)

 

I think the PS pump is the least likely suspect in a chain of electrical and hydraulic weak spots!

 

Znut, thanks for your kind offer, I have something similar to Consult myself but can only see that the switch is operating as it should be - don't know if yours can tell you anything more useful??

 

Cheers

 

H

 

ile have a gander tomorrow mate and report back

didnt think the power steering was controlled/efected by anything electrical,

 

 

just thaught it was all mechanically operated only?

 

 

my power steering is anoying as hell, but think my pump is dead (alternate post on here)

 

PAS is speed sensitive, and relies on signal from Speed sensor(which passes through the Speedometer and PAS ECU)

May be unrelated but if you are getting a "notchy" type feeling through the steering wheel & it feels like you have tight spots then I would also check the lower steering coupling - these can sieze up.

Easy to remove from the underside where the bolt to the rack.

 

Worth a check!

 

Paul

Thanks Paul but mine was actually working perfectly well for a few miles when first started up again, I'd assume this wouldn't be the case with a seized or damaged linkage :-(

 

I guess I should take a look anyway though, even if just to rule it out...

 

Cheers

 

H

Thanks Paul but mine was actually working perfectly well for a few miles when first started up again, I'd assume this wouldn't be the case with a seized or damaged linkage :-(

 

I guess I should take a look anyway though, even if just to rule it out...

 

Cheers

 

H

 

You would think that but when mine failed it felt fairly intermittant at times! Could have swore it was a PAS problem!

 

Just a thought & is easy to check !

Ok, cheers, I'll take a look. I've pulled all the boxes out of the passenger footwell in the meantime. I run a manual gearbox in what used to be a Jap auto, I disconnected the autobox controller some time ago without problems, just wondering if that could be affecting anything now...?

There are 4 boxes in my footwell, the main ECU, the autobox controller and two that I'm unfamiliar with, not sure which is the PAS controller, guessing the larger one behind the main ECU. The other smaller box is labelled as ASCD, cruise controller?

Not much to see really, connectors look good, worth dismantling the PAS controller to inspect?

Cheers

H

flat battery since ive sorned my car hence no feedback on conzult for ya rob..sorry bud:blushing:

LOL - not to worry, I suspect it will show the same as mine, solenoid operating but not what the voltage is. Shame really as a voltage readouot would be extremely useful at this stage..

Cheers

H

I 'think' i heard a while ago, that if you disconnect the auto box ecu, that effects the power steering?

That sounds logical but doesn't explain why it worked perfectly well for 10K miles without the autobox ecu connected.

 

I've done some further testing today, spliced a multimeter into the PS solenoid wiring, if JeffTT is about I would very much appreciate your opinion as you seem to know the steering system inside out!

 

At first startup, engine cold, voltage is approx 4.8V. Voltage drops smoothly as speed is increased BUT when returning back to low speed/idle the voltage has now crept up to about 5.5V and continues to increase gradually, max I saw was 5.65V but I only ran the car for about 20 mins, it may have carried on increasing over time or may have evened out at normal operating temperature (82 degrees today).

 

If anyone can tell me if this is good or bad it would be much appreciated!

 

Cheers

 

H

I 'think' i heard a while ago, that if you disconnect the auto box ecu, that effects the power steering?

Shouldn't they are completely seperate

RobH. The voltages sound about right. Read page 32 of the steering section

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=32&design=default&total=98

Thanks, I'm still not sure sbout the base voltage creeping up as it does but it's looking more likely that the problem is the column UJ!

 

I've disconnected the PAS ecu completely and gone for a drive, it still feels very similar in that it's 'notchy' about the neutral position but of course it's heavier everywhere else. If anyone has a good 'un (UJ) they want to sell or even if able to loan it for a substitution test it would be appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

H

 

PS how sad am I, trying to fix car and posting on here on xmas day!? Humbug!

I wrecked my UJ when I got towed once. The extra load of not having the power steering tipped it over the edge.