.... dam that stuff makes a mess and potentially screws up your alternator!

 

Having serviced and cleaned the PAS pump I decided to AN the pump fittings and thought I would post in case anyone wants to do similar.

 

Parts used on the pump were:

 

2 x Banjo adapter M16 to -8AN

2 x M16 x 1.5 Banjo Bolt (I could have used the originals)

4 x 3/8BSP/M16 copper washer

 

Here are a couple of piccies...

 

 

 

 

 

Also changed all the connections on my PAS POT to AN -8

 

Finally I still need to weld a -8 female bung into the PAS feed pipe so that it is completely leak proof :hyper:

 

Then refit, re-plumb - Job done forever I hope! :)

actually just read it,

 

the black bolt you have to undo to remove the piston & spring, you just put that back in all the way,

 

they have removed this part already & missed it out of the pic.

(bit pointed to in red)

 

right ive opened up my new TT pump.

 

i cant see a spring come out? nor a piston in there?

 

this is what it looks like in there

 

 

 

has it already been removed? or is that the piston right at the back (doesnt seem to spring back tho?)

 

 

secondly, they say to put the existing black bolt back in, but it wont go all the way back in? its not threaded to the end, and fluid will leak through it as its a banjo bolt!?

 

right ive opened up my new TT pump.

 

i cant see a spring come out? nor a piston in there?

 

this is what it looks like in there

 

 

 

has it already been removed? or is that the piston right at the back (doesnt seem to spring back tho?)

 

 

secondly, they say to put the existing black bolt back in, but it wont go all the way back in? its not threaded to the end, and fluid will leak through it as its a banjo bolt!?

 

 

In the 2nd picture - I believe that maybe the top of the piston in question - you need to 'pop' it out - just to be sure if you poke a screwdriver in there - it should move up and down! I guess it could be seized!! I had to drill a hole in mine and screw a self tapper in to pull it out - not reccomending same but... :batman:

 

Who said the banjo fixing bolt would fit after removing the banjo?? Never seen that anywhere? :ohmy:

In the 2nd picture - I believe that maybe the top of the piston in question - you need to 'pop' it out - just to be sure if you poke a screwdriver in there - it should move up and down! I guess it could be seized!! I had to drill a hole in mine and screw a self tapper in to pull it out - not reccomending same but... :batman:

 

Who said the banjo fixing bolt would fit after removing the banjo?? Never seen that anywhere? :ohmy:

 

ive pressed it quite hard with a screw driver, doenst budge. asume its seized then? will try force it out now.

 

after you remove the banjo bolt & remove the spring, what do you put in there then, just a normal bolt isit?

 

or do you have to put this thing back, and block at that end?

Slow down, check the new pump against your old pump (if you have one) compare then act. Can't tell from the pic's what the status is so take care.

 

I don't know what others have done but if you look at my original post - I have replaced with AN fittings and just capped it yes.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=1330820

thanks mate :)

 

the pdf is a little unclear on re-assembling.

 

 

you need to put this back on and use the origonal banjo which is by the piston/spring,

 

then put an end cap or a normal bolt at the point where the hicas pipes connect.

 

 

PS my piston is in there :)

 

ive unse-zed it a little, gona be a pig to get out tho :(

 

cheers :)

Yeah I have read posts that say the piston just drops or pops out!!!! lol

I had to drill a hole in the piston and screw a self tapper in and yank it out eventually ;-))

 

My interpretation of the pdf was that the user was looping the HICAS line - not blocking it off with a bolt or any other way. As per Jimmy's post or the Z1 write up here:

 

http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...mName=album248

 

Or Stellaz effort here:

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=117337&highlight=hicas+removal

 

Hope that helps matey. Happy New Year.

yea will try and do the same then, dont want to just drill the piston out completly or metal shavings will get all in the pump.

 

 

yea the pdf just seems to loop it all back to the pump,

 

i perfer the minimalistic aproach & get rid of everything un-necessary :)

well finaly got round to havign the new pump fitted today.

 

 

power steering workt. next day its gone again!

 

 

the garage seem to think that if you send a line from the HICAS take-off back to the resivour it will work tho.

 

(as in the pdf)

 

 

the 1st pump broke as i didnt remove the piston/spring, and ran it dry.

 

any ideas?

No idea now mate - suggest plan B would be to run the take-off back to the pot then - and see how that goes! ;-(

yea think will.

 

cars going up for sale after i get it back from the garage, so if its not working il just have to drop the price

.... dam that stuff makes a mess and potentially screws up your alternator!

 

Having serviced and cleaned the PAS pump I decided to AN the pump fittings and thought I would post in case anyone wants to do similar.

 

Parts used on the pump were:

 

2 x Banjo adapter M16 to -8AN

2 x M16 x 1.5 Banjo Bolt (I could have used the originals)

4 x 3/8BSP/M16 copper washer

 

Here are a couple of piccies...

 

 

 

 

 

Also changed all the connections on my PAS POT to AN -8

 

Finally I still need to weld a -8 female bung into the PAS feed pipe so that it is completely leak proof :hyper:

 

Then refit, re-plumb - Job done forever I hope! :)

 

Andy, where did you get your pipes and fittings?

I've had a look about but struggling to find where yopu got them from.

Andy, where did you get your pipes and fittings?

I've had a look about but struggling to find where yopu got them from.

 

 

Hi dude - how's things?

 

I got them here: http://www.thinkauto.com/

 

Tino at Think Automotive is great, very willing to help - 020 8232 3520.

 

HTH.