.... dam that stuff makes a mess and potentially screws up your alternator!

 

Having serviced and cleaned the PAS pump I decided to AN the pump fittings and thought I would post in case anyone wants to do similar.

 

Parts used on the pump were:

 

2 x Banjo adapter M16 to -8AN

2 x M16 x 1.5 Banjo Bolt (I could have used the originals)

4 x 3/8BSP/M16 copper washer

 

Here are a couple of piccies...

 

 

 

 

 

Also changed all the connections on my PAS POT to AN -8

 

Finally I still need to weld a -8 female bung into the PAS feed pipe so that it is completely leak proof :hyper:

 

Then refit, re-plumb - Job done forever I hope! :)

Brilliant,who's a clever boy.Well done.:bow::bow::bow:

that is super dooper!:hyper::bow: and i want one!:D

 

dan.:cool:

my power steering had a leak, the leak has been sorted now, but i think its too late, as the pump is still whining when thers fluid back in there.

 

 

can i ask why may it damage the alternator?

 

 

my alternator isnt charging correctlty, and its only since the power steering has gone?

 

i thaught might have been the belt, but the alternator & power steering is on different pulley?

:wack:

my power steering had a leak, the leak has been sorted now, but i think its too late, as the pump is still whining when thers fluid back in there.

 

 

can i ask why may it damage the alternator?

 

 

my alternator isnt charging correctlty, and its only since the power steering has gone?

 

i thaught might have been the belt, but the alternator & power steering is on different pulley?

 

Hi,

PAS fluid has a nasty habit of finding it's way down/dripping into the alternator and messing the thing up for good.... :wack:

im going to be fitting my new TT pump next week,

 

ive got rid of the HICAS.

 

the pump itself has 3 take offs, 1 for the HICAS, 1 for the steering rack & one for the resivour.

 

 

1) is the HICAS take-off high pressure? i need to block it off, wana make sure it seals & doesnt leak.

 

when the garage did it for me before think they put a banjo init, but shortly after the pump died (leak elsewhere)

 

2) how do you undo the banjo bolt on the high pressure take-off?

 

3) do i have to seal them when re-fitting the banjos?

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g254/eerrrrr/3-1.jpg

 

the ends just look like hoops?

im going to be fitting my new TT pump next week,

 

ive got rid of the HICAS.

 

the pump itself has 3 take offs, 1 for the HICAS, 1 for the steering rack & one for the resivour.

 

 

1) is the HICAS take-off high pressure? i need to block it off, wana make sure it seals & doesnt leak.

 

when the garage did it for me before think they put a banjo init, but shortly after the pump died (leak elsewhere)

 

2) how do you undo the banjo bolt on the high pressure take-off?

 

3) do i have to seal them when re-fitting the banjos?

 

1) The Chamber you want to block off is the one furthest away from the pulley.

 

2) IIRC, you need a 24mm spanner and some way of holding the pump.

 

3) Im in the middle of looking into this. The thread on the banjo bolt is m18 x 1.5mm pitch (18mm Metric Fine). I've found a die so im going to make up something to replace the banjo bolt.

 

You'll need to remove the rotating element and knifes from the HICAS side aswell. If you dont and block off the pipe, the pump will pressure lock.

 

You'll need to remove the rotating element and knifes from the HICAS side aswell. If you dont and block off the pipe, the pump will pressure lock.

 

can you elabarate on this please?

 

 

my pump was working fine, then i removed the hicas, had a leak from somewhere, then the pump stopped working.

 

presumably as i ran it dry and damaged the pump.

 

 

or would i have killed the pump by not removing thr rotating elemant/knife (whatver that is?)

also which take-off goes where, and is this the bit that spins?

 

A - Hicas?

B - resivour

C - steering rack

 

correct?

Z32 matey - this is the bit you are missing I think ;-))

 

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_images/HICAS-TT_Pump_Mod.pdf

 

Andy

My understanding is that

 

A - goes to the steering rack

B - inlet from the PAS Pot

C - outlet port to the hicas

1) The Chamber you want to block off is the one furthest away from the pulley.

 

2) IIRC, you need a 24mm spanner and some way of holding the pump.

 

3) Im in the middle of looking into this. The thread on the banjo bolt is m18 x 1.5mm pitch (18mm Metric Fine). I've found a die so im going to make up something to replace the banjo bolt.

 

You'll need to remove the rotating element and knifes from the HICAS side aswell. If you dont and block off the pipe, the pump will pressure lock.

 

Shrek - it's M16 not M18 - or at least it was on mine. :innocent: :clap:

Z32 matey - this is the bit you are missing I think ;-))

 

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_images/HICAS-TT_Pump_Mod.pdf

 

Andy

 

 

very helpful bit of info that thanks.:yes::duffer:

 

dan.:tongue_smilie:

Having devaned the pump as above - I have capped 'C' with an -8 end cap terminator.

thanks for the PDF :)

 

 

my car is NA, so it doesnt have the HICAS solenoid/pressure pipe.

 

i have a TT engine & pump tho, in the NA car.

 

 

 

so C is the take-off for the HICAS, i just block that off.

 

 

 

why do you have to remove the piston & spring then? i didnt do this on the old pump, is this why i have broken mine?

 

why do you have to remove the piston & spring then? i didnt do this on the old pump, is this why i have broken mine?

 

bump :mellow:

thanks for the PDF :)

 

 

my car is NA, so it doesnt have the HICAS solenoid/pressure pipe.

 

i have a TT engine & pump tho, in the NA car.

 

 

 

so C is the take-off for the HICAS, i just block that off.

 

 

 

why do you have to remove the piston & spring then? i didnt do this on the old pump, is this why i have broken mine?

 

says in the pdf that the pas fluid can back up pressure if you don't. Haven't done it myself so don't know.

Yeah the pump will lock up if you don't de-vane sir. (According to sites in the USA)

bump :mellow:

 

Yes matey - very likely!

i didnt remove that when i removed my HICAS,

 

so have i got lots of pressure built up & ruind my pump?

 

 

have no power steering, but theres fluid in there, its whining away & no power steering?

i didnt remove that when i removed my HICAS,

 

so have i got lots of pressure built up & ruind my pump?

 

 

have no power steering, but theres fluid in there, its whining away & no power steering?

 

sounds like it mate, not an expert though so best get it checked out. Or take out the spring and piston and see if that helps.

i didnt remove that when i removed my HICAS,

 

so have i got lots of pressure built up & ruind my pump?

 

 

have no power steering, but theres fluid in there, its whining away & no power steering?

 

Me thinks - very possibly. :thumbup:

ah ritey o.

 

 

well iv bought a new pump and its come today,

 

but il just remove the pin/spring out of the existing pump and see if works.

 

if not il swap the pumps over & take the spring out 1st this time :glare:

 

 

thanks for the info on the spring/psiton.

 

will report back

Remember to use the PTFE hose on the high pressure side. It runs at ~80bar so the normal 200series stuff is marginal.

Having devaned the pump as above - I have capped 'C' with an -8 end cap terminator.

 

was thinking this,

 

on that PDF, they have kept the banjo bolt, and Hicas pipe which connects there, and just ran another feed to the resivour?

 

 

can i just stick another bolt that goes all the way in will do? (the existing banjo bolt will onjly go in half way)