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Posted

hi peeps, looking for some help on adjusting my idle as its a tad high, my tps is bang on set at 0.48v and i know where the idle adjustment screw is but what is the exact idle supposed to be and is there any particular sequence of adjustment.

cheers

davie

Featured Replies

If you have just reset you tps you need the ecu to read the changes first before you adjust the base idle. Turn the engine on, unplug the tps plug on the flylead leave it running for about 20-30 seconds then plug the lead back in, the ecu should then read the voltage change and reset the idle.

Idle is between 650-750 depending on whether auto or manual.

 

HTH

 

Graham

  • Author
If you have just reset you tps you need the ecu to read the changes first before you adjust the base idle. Turn the engine on, unplug the tps plug on the flylead leave it running for about 20-30 seconds then plug the lead back in, the ecu should then read the voltage change and reset the idle.

Idle is between 650-750 depending on whether auto or manual.

 

HTH

 

Graham

 

my cars a manual bud and idle is currently sitting at aprox 900rpm on my ECUtalk display

  • Author
Did you adjust the tps and then the reset as above and ended up at 900rpm?

 

no i fitted the engine roughly 6 months ago and no adjustments have been made to the tps since, engine ran aprox 750rpm after fitted but gradually rose a bit, im thinking silverbullets advice concerning cleaning the throttle bodys could be an option then il set the idle.

i set my TPS correct, (conzult)

 

 

i set my idle about 750-800, as thats what its "suppost" to be on.

 

however i found that was too low, as sometimes the car would cut out after being revvd to say 5000/6000 RPM,

 

it couldnt seem to catch itself and would stall.

 

ive got mine on 900-1000 to stop that from happening.

 

 

you can adjust and listen to the engine, you can hear it struggling when its too low

Firstly if you know someone with a consult see what the AAC valve value is at idle with the engine warmed up.it should be no more than 25% iirc.If it is it will be compensating for some other issue like an air leak.The car may not be reading the g/box neutral switch also which will make it rev high.

  • Author

rite tps is set 0.48 and base idle is set now to 750 but the ecu still insists on 900rpm idle? also my aac is sitting at 39, any ideas peeps

rite tps is set 0.48 and base idle is set now to 750 but the ecu still insists on 900rpm idle? also my aac is sitting at 39, any ideas peeps

 

try cleaning or changing the temp sender (ecu one) this item faulty can cause high idle and should always be fixed 1st before changing perameters like idle adjustments;)

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Right heres what ive done so far (not in order),

 

cleaned throttle bodies,

carried out boost leak test (all good)

set base idle to 750,

set tps to 0.48v (idle),

reset tps for ucu ref,

 

aac is still no less then 39 and idle 875-900rpm, going to change the temp sender, noticed the temp refuses to rise above 68 degrees © around town and 70 max on motorway kicking its a*se, doesnt seem like a bad thing to me but il change it anyway and see what happens.

 

also

 

i have an induction noise (not the usual gurgling) coming from the drivers footwell (A.I.V's) can here it on idle and accelleration, strange as i was under the impression the aiv's should only be open when engine is cold or on deceleration???

 

another potential problem, fu*ked reed valves possibly???

 

your thoughts are appreciated,

thanks

davie

  • Author

Temp sender has now been replaced and its made no difference :angry:

 

any ideas peeps im thinking those A.I.V's need chucked in the bin next and get rid of all the unnesesary piping ect.

 

Right heres what ive done so far (not in order),

 

cleaned throttle bodies,

carried out boost leak test (all good)

set base idle to 750,

set tps to 0.48v (idle),

reset tps for ucu ref,

 

aac is still no less then 39 and idle 875-900rpm, going to change the temp sender, noticed the temp refuses to rise above 68 degrees © around town and 70 max on motorway kicking its a*se, doesnt seem like a bad thing to me but il change it anyway and see what happens.

 

also

 

i have an induction noise (not the usual gurgling) coming from the drivers footwell (A.I.V's) can here it on idle and accelleration, strange as i was under the impression the aiv's should only be open when engine is cold or on deceleration???

 

another potential problem, fu*ked reed valves possibly???

 

your thoughts are appreciated,

thanks

davie

Have you checked the cars neutral switch. If this has gone duff, or is out of circuit (after a manual conversion for example), then it will idle higher than normal (850-900) because the ecu timing becomes 25 instead of 15.

When the car is idling, hold the clutch in and put it in and out of gear. If the switch is working, there should be a slight change engine behaviour.

I believe that when you set the base idle you should first remove the yellow ecu control plug, Once this has been done the base idle should be set between 500 and 550 rpm. After reconnecting the yellow connector the ecu should take control and hold it at 850rpm +/-50 rpm. I may be mistaken as it has been a while though. Also there are 2 connectors involved. 1 yellow and 1 black on mine. Both were very green inside but once I cleaned them up my idle was perfect.:yinyang::yinyang:

Edited by redwine300
bad gramma

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

I used conzult to set the base idle (no need to disconnect the yellow plug).

base idle and all the other stuff ive mentioned is set properly, the issue is that the ecu is running idle high (aprox 975 rpm).

 

what r u doing when you adjust the idle?? are u removing the yellow plug first on the idle control valve?

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