HIYA PEEPS!!!

well thought id try a post on here as im getting no where. i have a 92 manual TT slicktop (the silver fifth gear one) which i just replaced the engine in, after replacing the engine all was great for a couple of weeks then the boost dropped to 0.6bar where it has stubbornly stayed regardless of my efforts to rectify!

ive had some pointers off the guys at zed world but were running out of checks as ive covered most now and im probably doing there head in by now :rofl: and up here in scotland im just a tad to far to go visit them unfortunately,heres a list of things ive checked and ruled out, if anyone has any ideas then lets hear em. much appreciated.

 

done diag test and check light flashed a code 55 (no fault found),

carried out boost leak check using leak tester (preasurising hoses) and all is good,

checked all vacum/solinoid hoses for condition and security and to make sure there in the right places and all is good.

ran engine with turbo/induction pipes and maf disconnected and both turbos are producing charge so no siezed turbo,

have removed catalitic converters as one was partialy blocked so exhaust should be breathing fine with no obstructions,

blanked of brake servo and clutch booster lines incase of possible boost leaks in these areas, all fine.

 

 

car runs/drives faultlessly apart from the boost issue.

 

any suggestions welcome and thanks in advance

davie

anyone :confused:

what set up you running? regards to boost controller etc

boost controller hasnt been connected to the car since i dropped the replacement engine buddy so its standard boost set up, only mods are chipped ecu, dump valves and air filter and exhaust.

cheers

davie

Rip the dump valves out for starters. Useless detritus. Since refitting the engine without the boost controller, have you plugged in the connectors to the solenoids?

so you reconnected up all the old system, vacuum pipes etc all been put back to standard. does that ecu chip require a boost controller? is it worth putting the boost controller back onto the vehicle? just an idea to try

so you reconnected up all the old system, vacuum pipes etc all been put back to standard. does that ecu chip require a boost controller? is it worth putting the boost controller back onto the vehicle? just an idea to try

 

ECU doesn't need a chip to run a boost controller. It needs a chip purely for a different map. Has no baring on EBC.

Rip the dump valves out for starters. Useless detritus. Since refitting the engine without the boost controller, have you plugged in the connectors to the solenoids?

 

yup all connectors in place buddy as i said before for the first couple of weeks the car ran perfect standard boost then it fell away.

cheers

davie

dump valves may be leaking. exhaust leak?

as said buddy preassurised the induction/charge system and all is good with no leaks

ta

davie

Intercooler Leaking?

http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/boostleaks/boost_leak_guide.htm

 

Hope this is some help

 

Damien

cheers buddy!!! some good reading! can anyone tell me, if i run my car with the knock sensor disconnected, should it throw the car into safety boost?

cheers buddy!!! some good reading! can anyone tell me, if i run my car with the knock sensor disconnected, should it throw the car into safety boost?

 

yes

hmmmmm when i drive my car with the knock sensor disconnected there is no difference to how its driving now which would suggest to me that the car is in safety boost after all but is this possible when the car is flashing code 55 (no fault found) ??? i would have thought if the car is running safety boost due to the fact the ecu sees a faulty knock sensor then surely it woud show when doing the self diagnostic???

ta

davie

hmmmmm when i drive my car with the knock sensor disconnected there is no difference to how its driving now which would suggest to me that the car is in safety boost after all but is this possible when the car is flashing code 55 (no fault found) ??? i would have thought if the car is running safety boost due to the fact the ecu sees a faulty knock sensor then surely it woud show when doing the self diagnostic???

ta

davie

 

can anyone shed some light?

have you checked the connection to the boost solinoids?

 

have you tried running with the dump valves removed?

 

i have sorted my boost issue. the restrictors were not in the solinoid lines and the recircs were weak. have you still got yours fitted?