This weekend thinking of starting the removal of the engine for a rebuild. i cant find a very good engine removal guide? or is it that simple there isnt one? lol. ill be doing this on my drive, is it even possible without lifting the car in the air? its an auto aswell does that change anything? im going to be hiring a crane when it comes to the big pull will i need any adapters for the crane to engine etc??

 

Many Regards Andy

Andy, this should help, i used it when i did mine, done 3 since.

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/engine/engine.html

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/enginetech.html

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/enginetech.html

 

Sorry, i hit enter before you...........:slap:

great lads thanks, this makes for good bed time reading lol. can all this done from the engine bay or will i need some jacks to lift the vehicle at the front and slide under? really could do with a two posted ramp on the garden lol.

 

thanks again

Sorry, i hit enter before you...........:slap:

 

haha just lost the race :)

so if i get myself a set of axle stands really i shouldnt have a problem getting to the underneath of the car. to remove exhausts etc. on an auto dont the box come out with the engine? then disconnect when out? do you really have to drop the subframe or is that over kill?

so if i get myself a set of axle stands really i shouldnt have a problem getting to the underneath of the car. to remove exhausts etc. on an auto dont the box come out with the engine? then disconnect when out? do you really have to drop the subframe or is that over kill?

 

 

Just remove the exhausts, the prop in one piece, mark where it is on the diff with tippex, remember where the washers go, usually above, bit by bit and it will happen.

No need to do anything with subframe,, when you get to removing the box, loosen the engine mount bolts, not off, but so they are still on some thread, lower the box, this in turn will make engine lean back, dont go as far as the plenium / pipes hit bulkhead hit, just do each step by step.

One thing to invest in, is 3 x 30cm extension bars with a 14mm socket,

this is to get to the top gearbox bolts oin the bellhousing, will help loads.

 

My record for removing engine and box is just over 2 hours.......

nice one stu, going to buy a alum one piece prop when its goes back together so will i still need to mark the prop? really looking forward to this project now i know it will take time but hopefully be fun and a great experience for me. looks like i will be doing most the engine removal on my own do you think thats possible?

 

andy

Im no macanhic and never removed an engine yet until now ive just removed mine and last weekend got a tub off .one to go. id just say take you time .i never toched steering or alternater nor did i remove subframe just lostened for the box.and yes i was on my own.take care and time good luck.ill keep an eye on your thread

Im no macanhic and never removed an engine yet until now ive just removed mine and last weekend got a tub off .one to go. id just say take you time .i never toched steering or alternater nor did i remove subframe just lostened for the box.and yes i was on my own.take care and time good luck.ill keep an eye on your thread

 

It's taken you 4 years though! :wack:

been thinking, couldnt i leave the auto box in place when removing enigne, are the bolts accessible if i removed the starter motor?

I think you have to remove the box and lower it at the rear to get at the last two bolts. Will also need to do this to fit them again. Can't see the point of leaving the box in as you will have to move it twice then.

oh right that explains it then ill just take it out with the engine then.

On the plus size you will get the chance to give it a bit of a service, easier than when in place.

 

Drop the sump, drain the fluid clean the magnet and flush through etc

Having done this a few times :rolleyes: i can say 100% that there is NO need to remove the g/box (auto or manual) when removing the engine.Once the rad etc is out,the top and sides of the engine are stripped and all the lwr bellhousing bolts are removed.With the car raised on axle stands,support the front x member with a jack.undo its 4 secouring bolts to the chassis and undo the engine mount nuts whilst your there,Remove the pinch bolt on the steering u.j.Not the one holding the u.j to the rack but where it meets the shaft.Lower the engine a few inches on the x member so you can get your arm down the back and remove the four top bolts, and the 10mm bolt securing the g/box harness to the rear of the engine drivers side.The earth lead can be left on and pulled with the engine if you undo it from the bulkhead.Youll need to support the g/box.If its an auto do not place a jack straight under the pan,place wood under it to spread the load.Once youve done this out she comes.Just to add if its an auto remove the box to engine/engine bracket by the filter and pull out the shield.by turning over the engine via the crank pulley you can undo the torque converter bolts from the back of the drive plate.

Edited May 29, 200916 yr by jimmer

My record for removing engine and box is just over 2 hours.......

 

...does that include the time spent swearing, throwing things and hitting council paving slabs with a hammer ? :tongue:

great that sounds so easy lol glad i can leave the box in, but without undoing the flex plate cant this cause problems with the input seal on the auto box if the convertor comes out with the engine? or will it stay in place with autobox?

The convertor will stay put on the g/box and stop your drive swimming with dexron.

nice one jimmer, glad the box can stay in the car and aint got to be worrying about working it out slowly with the engine. only got one jack might need to get me another lol.