for those who dont know, ive converted from NA to TT, (and auto to man)

 

put intercooler pipes back together, started first time but died out.

 

i had forgot to blank off the recircs.

 

blankt off, started again first time, idled a little longer,

 

sounded like was on 3 or 5 cylinders, then diesd again when tapped the accelarator.

 

now it wont start :( it just turns and turns, had a little blip but wudnt fire.

 

ive left it now as dont want to flood it. ive not had the gas pedal pressed in when starting, just started with the key nothing else

 

 

fuel pump noise comes on when ignition is on.

 

any suggestions?

and the PTU is clean.

 

the engine was working fine before in the TT car.

 

its in the NA car now, (swapped fuel pumps, ECUs, all the bits needed for the conversion)

hmm

 

 

removed fuel pump fuse, turned the car over for 10 seconds,

 

put it back in, it starts again, idles, its on about 300rpm, stil sounds like on 3/4/5 cylinders (dont know but dont think its 6)

 

idles for a minite then dies again.

 

boost leak? the petrol in there is quite old i beleive, but it still starts???

Maf?

Cas not correctly adjusted?

It's either flooding due to a kanckered/dirty sensor on the front rad pipe or the ECU is not registering all the sensors.

Remove the larger of the 2 sensors on the rad pipe out of the front of engine, clean both the connector and the sensor it self. Re fit and remove the fuel pump fuse again, try to start a few times then refit fuse. Car should now start. If it dies again and runs that bad on idle after doing this, then suggests ECU. Is it chipped?

It floods very easy, so you may have to do the same process a couple of times.

 

A dodgy MAF will still allow the car to start and idle, it just won't actiually run over 2500 revs when driven, so it can't be that.

smithy

the engine/ water temp sensor was working on the engine when was in the old car.

 

im thinking ECU aswel,

 

im using the auto/manual loom, but the looms are the same, just doesnt have the wires coming off for the boost solenoids.

 

il clean the sensor tho just incase, but like i said it workt fine before.

 

could it be theres an air leak? some of the IC pipes may have a gap in them?

 

or would that not cause this

and the ECU is a standard TT manual.

 

 

the sensors on the rad pipes are clean i beleive, where is the sensor?

 

 

i had this problem before, but it was the PTU, cleaned and was fine.

 

 

the car has been stood for a year odd the previous owner said, so the petrol init is old. should idle and rev tho?

A massive air leak would make it idle and run like a bag of spanners, but you should be able to keep the engine running by blipping the accelerator.

You should always ensure it's boost leak free though as they can mask over other problems and vice versa.

Everything pipewise is connected?

Which ECU is it now running ? and is it chipped? finally any engine lights staying lit up once started?

smithy

its running the TT ECU, and its standard, not chipped.

 

ive had the car back from the garage (they just droped the engine and box init)

 

i put the IC pipes back.

 

 

they said they had it running on brake cleaner (whatever that means)

 

but as the IC pipes wernt connected, it woudnt idle as was letting too much air in.

 

il have a look at the pipes tomo, incase theres a few thin vaccum pipes unblocked or something........

its quite typical for the looms to develop breaks from being moved about so much, or injector connectrs get broken and dont seat properly afterwards.

 

One by one pull each coilpack connector off to find out which cylinders are not running, then you need to test for spark on the dead cylinders with a coilpack and spark plug resting on top of the plenum.

so were going down the connections & pipe route yea?

 

the ECU & coilpacks work fine, as engine was running sweet before the swap.

 

just hope the manual TT ECU is communicating propery through the NA auto loom. (people here done that before yea??)

 

should i try putting the NA ECU in to see if that iliminates the prob?

No no never assume just because something worked fine before, it should work fine now. Especially if you wern't the long term owner of either vehicle taht's being used.

It's a big job you've undertaken here with much altered and swapped around etc

Often is the case with something having never been moved or removed in years and the 1st time it is, bang it don't work.

 

Lets just stick with the ECU for a mo, do not put the N/A one in as it's set for lower cc injectors so it's gonna run rough as fook anyway.

 

The TT ECU you have fitted, remove the plug and resit it in again.

Do ANY lengine ights stay on when the car starts ?

If it doesn't start do the sensor clean and fuel pump fuse as i said earlier and then tell us the answer about starting and engine lights.

 

Yes as Legrath says, check the looms and coil packs, again assume nothing mate, always confirm something is working correctly by your own process of elimination and testing.

 

Can you take a few pics close up of the engine bay that show us how things are connected?

 

Did the garage or you remove ANYTHING at all from the TT engine before fitting in the N/A shell ??

smithy

thanks for your help guys, i need it

 

right think im gettin bit closer now, one of the coilpacks wernt on all the way, the 1 right at the top by the bulkhead.

 

ive noticed that this doesnt hard pipe doesnt have a pipe connected to it?

 

its on the driver side throtle body,

 

the metal hard pipe goes to this thing in the corner, by the fuses,

 

and also ive noticed this doesnt have anything connected to it, its by the passanger side, at the front by the light

 

when i put the ECU in, i made sure it was sitting correctly & in firm, as had that mistake before.

 

the clocks (speedo cluster) isnt conencted at the mo as ive swapped the dash, but il conenct it & see if any lights come on, after you advise on these pics....

Unfortunately at work here i can't see pics used through the likes of photobucket etc, will have a look later when i get home.

 

But in the mean time, is car still not starting ?

Have you done an ECU diagnostic check ?

smithy

it was starting yesterday,

 

it started for a cuple of seconds today, but not now :(

 

no i havent tried the ECU check yet, knew that was next on the list, but want to check ive got everything physically correct first,

 

then electronically etc

 

yea help me out later mate, and everyone else lol

Well for now mate i will say, it don't like being started on and off all the time and tested etc. It is the biggest cause of flooding and through the ECU temp

sender and after you saying it fired up after removing the fuel pump fuse, it kinda confirms it.

Whilst it does run it will dump shit loads of fuel in to cool temps down because it things it's overheating.

 

Takes just 10mins to do an ECU check and makes NO difference at all on the various intake pipes etc being fitted correctly.

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html

 

Go on shoot off now, i'll go and have a fag and when i come back I wanna see what the fault is :p

smithy

13*: engine coolant temp. sensor circuit

Lol now do yer believe me :p

It will not fire up with that being faulty, clean as much as possible both sides, the connector and the sensor side then remove fuel pump fuse. Try to start car a few times, replace the fuse and she'll fire up.

Once it's running you can sort out any boost leaks, but i'll be surprised it is any where as near lumpy as it was before ;)

If your clocks were fitted an engine light would have been on and if you had/still have the electric sub fan?? that would also be on all the time with the ignition.

smithy

il give a go at cleaning it again now,

 

is it just on the metal pater pipe?

 

the yellow conenctor, that goes on the sensor yea?

 

anything else along the connector wire?

 

 

could there be another bit that needs cleaning?

 

how accurate is that ECU?

ECU is very accurate and yep the larger of the 2 connectors and it's usually yellow. Both the connector and the sender need cleaning and yep it's the water inlet pipe that goes in between the cam covers :)

You can then if you want re set the ECU so that it reads any fresh codes.

smithy

just cleaned the yellow connector, and the smaller one next to it.

 

also cleaned the 2 prongs on the sensor.

 

removed fuse, replaced, stil nothing. it nearly fires but wont :(

 

thaught its flooded, but i did another ECU check and still giving error code 13.

 

ive cleaned them by scraping the green gunk thats on there, and spraying with WD40.

 

do i need a new sensor?? its the same sensor on the engine when it was running before the swap??

wait a minite, i think ive got it.

 

its the water temp sensor right?

 

 

i havent got the radiater back on yet!! so theres no water in the engine at all, nor the rad/cooling system...

 

 

would that matter??

Well as regards teh sensor it's meant to read 2-3K-Ohms when cold in order to work and register with the ECU.

TBH, to me it's either faulty or dirty which causes it to go like this.

Just one other thing, the electric sub fan that sits infront of the rad, are you still using it and i assume the one of the N/A shell ? not that it's a biggie, just that it it is in the same wiring circuit.

smithy

thats not connected as i havent put the rad etc back in yet.

 

people remove that tho when they have electric fans to replace the viscus?

When using the an electric one in place of the viscous one, ideally it should stay in place. The new electric one that you fit kicks in at a lower temp whereas the sub fan kicks in as a last resort and at a much higher temp,if it was me, i'd leave it in and connected, it also works for the aircon if you have it.

I think now you know where the problem is, your more than halfway there.

 

You just have to work out if it is just dirty enough still to not register at the ECU or if water should be present and if the electric sub fan not being present either is playing a part.

But in short, while the ECU is reading a fault on that circuit, the engine floods each and every time you try to start the car.

So least you know why now :)

cheers

smithy