Well my wheels have taken a beating on the winter roads. All the laqure has started to flake and dirt has started to get under etc.

 

Now the lips isnt s/s its just polised alloy. so what i was wondering is i was going to wet and dry the whole lip and polish it to a high finish and keep it well waxed, or with the 1st sign of water will it turn grey??

 

If this is the case then i will have to relaqure them.

 

Its not the spokes that have gone funny its just the lip :(

It's a double edged sword this one. When I had mine refurbished, I had the lips mirror polished back to bare alloy (like they were when new). Now, Advan do put a coating on their alloy to protect it, but it isn't lacquer, I've yet to find out exactly what it is though. Now, as you know, mine doesn't even see rain, let alone winter, so they stay looking pretty good, but during the summer months when I am washing it every other week, I do still polish the wheels, say, once a month. They go very slightly cloudy, but only I really notice it. After polishing though, they come up very sharp. I just keep on top of it. Difficult when if you have to use the car as a daily driver. The shine won't last.

 

But, the problem with lacquer is, whilst they are put on to protect the wheel finish, they have almost the reverse effect on polished wheels. For a paint to adhere and bond to a metal surface, you need to key it, so the polymers have something to latch onto. You can't do this with bare or diamond cut alloy. So you're simply putting a covering over something that's not protected. If you get a slight chip, or any peeling, that's it, game over, the wheel will have to be stripped all over again. After a chip, you'll get the horrible spider webbing affect as the moisture seeps between lacquer and metal. It'll lock all that in and corrode quickly.

 

I am sure you've noticed some of the new Fords and VWs with machined centres with lacquer on them. They are already looking pretty shabby, with under-surface corrosion etc.

 

These types of wheels really are only suited for drier countries.

 

So, it depends how you want to look after your wheels. With bare polishing, if you keep on top of it, you can keep them looking fresh, but lacquering, whilst they'll keep nice for a short while with zero maintenance, when they start to corrode (and they will quickly) there's nothing you can do about it.

I would go for the polished rim without lacquer as you can always polish them back up, if you have them lacquered once you get a stone chip its not long before the corrosion starts again.

 

Paul

washed my car yesterday and was horrified the way the b@stard road salt has butched my rims:shock::mad:..2 mins with a brillo pad on each lip and they are 50% better but it looks like a wheels off job in the new year to mint them up again

Id agree with whats been said mate. Polished wheels that have been laquered NEVER look as good as bare metal alloy thats well maintained.

 

TBH it is a bit of a pain in the arse this time of year. Ive gained the best results so far using the following:

 

Remove all the dirt with an acid free wheel cleaner, the rub down with Wire Wool,

Then Polish stage 1 using - http://www.britemax.com/easycut.html

Then to improve the finish - Polish stage 2 - http://www.britemax.com/finalshine.html

 

Then i seal the polish using http://www.chemicalguys.com/Wheel_Wax_p/wac_303.htm (2 layers)

Finished off with Collinite 476s - http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/collinite-23476s-paste-wax-detailing-kit.php.

 

If you give them a carefull clean once a week, this should keep the wheels in good nick through about 2-3 months of winter grime.

 

HTH

 

Nick

My alloys are really bad. well 3 are not to bad but they have started to go. but the drivers rear is almost grey and it has only really taken a week to get to that state :(

 

With everything under the car brand new and the amount of £££ i want to keep it that was now. as i notice some surface rust on the stillen drop links and they have only been fitted for 2 months :(

 

So i will be buying another car now for the rain and winter months.

 

So i will wet and dry the lip back to the metal the 1500's and a good buff up.

What products did you find best SI ??

 

i will try the polish route first then if its to much work then i can always laqure later.

 

With the lip being polished i presume that it is bare metal with laqure on top and not sprayed

 

Cheers for your help guys :)

Quote: 'With everything under the car brand new and the amount of £££ i want to keep it that was now. as i notice some surface rust on the stillen drop links and they have only been fitted for 2 months'

 

 

Waxoil best under car as kills rust, repels water, lubricates bushes and joints and creeps back if an area scratched and into seams etc.

 

Get black version and looks good as well. Far better than painting components under the car which are exposed to everyday driving.

 

If you cant borrow a compressor and underseal/ Scholtes gun (best) they do aerosols or a hand pumped Waxoyl applicator.

 

Regards

 

Dave

Waxoil won't kill rust. It's a good protector though if applied correctly.

According to Waxoyl;

 

It is recognised as the premier product to prevent rust and corrosion, especially in automotive applications where vehicles are run on salt covered roads or in a hostile environment.

 

Waxoyl is unusual for being superb at controlling rust on older vehicles. Waxoyl soaks into rust and is capable of pretty much stopping it dead. In doing so even a vehicle with established rust can have its lifespan extended by many years.

 

 

Waxoyl's water-repellent additives and high performance inhibitors offer long-term protection against corrosion.

 

Marketing blurb with cans: WAXOYL HAS A UNIQUE FORMULA THAT SOLVES THE PROBLRM OF HIDDEN RUST ONCE AND FOR ALL. A THICK WAXY FLUID, SATURATED WITH A VERY POWERFUL RUSTKILLER, WAXOYL CHASES OUT MOISTURE TO FORM A FLEXIBLE WEATHERPROOF SKIN THAT WONT CRACK.

 

 

Would appear Waxoyl thinks it can kill rust Si!

 

Regards

 

Dave

Edited December 27, 200816 yr by Dave

According to Waxoyl;

 

Waxoyl soaks into rust and is capable of pretty much stopping it dead

 

'Pretty much stopping it' isn't killing it.

 

Also an inhibitor isn't a killer, it's a decreaser. Slowing it down yes, killing it, no.

 

If you have rust, then the only way to kill it, is to cut it out.

 

Waxoil is a great product. It just shouldn't be seen as being a 'rust killer'. Spray it on a panel before the outbreak of rust and it's a fantastic protector.

 

:)

To be fair it would'nt be the first time a company has claimed there product can do something it can't.

 

I'm sorry if that sounds like i'm trying to pick a fight, cos i'm not, but Waxoyl will not stop rust whether they say it will or not. :)

'Pretty much stopping it' isn't killing it.

 

Also an inhibitor isn't a killer, it's a decreaser. Slowing it down yes, killing it, no.

 

If you have rust, then the only way to kill it, is to cut it out.

 

Waxoil is a great product. It just shouldn't be seen as being a 'rust killer'. Spray it on a panel before the outbreak of rust and it's a fantastic protector.

 

:)

 

 

 

I bow to your use of words but of course to inhibit something, that something has to be there.

 

Rust is oxidation due to the presence of water and air- over 30+ years I have used Waxoyl on a great number of vehicles- many with some surface rust on some surfaces and whether through the exclusion of moisture/air or the 'inhibitors' they did not suffer from terminal corrosion later- indeed we regularly inspect the vehicles I still own and they are like new.

 

I am not talking about steel that is seriously corroded and scaled, but the large areas that have little protection underneath and will have pinprick rust even on new cars.

 

 

For me it does exactly what it says on the tin and thats based on hard personal experience!

 

Regards

 

Dave :)

To coat over polished wheel dish/lip and leave a durable clear finish without dulling the shine you should use something like Alsa's 'clear 4 chrome'.